Taper wound strings and intonation

[Coreymcd22]

I recently put a set of DR taper wound strings on my Spector Q4 because I wanted the 110 E. I've never used tapered strings before but was under the impression that the taper just signifies the larger gauge. Since I've put them on my intonation has definitely been off on the higher frets, once I get above 9 it's pretty noticeable. I've tried re-setting the intonation but I might be doing it wrong since I know Spectors have given people trouble before.

I've also noticed that the strings seem to be giving off a strange "chorus-y" sound, especially on the higher frets that's a little off-putting. That's the only way I know how to describe it, it sounds like I'm using chorus and the strings are vibrating more than what I'm used to. I've never had a bad experience with DRs before but if anyone has any info on what I need to do I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

[GK Growl]

Sit down, this could take awhile.

Taperwound, tapercore, exposed core, whatever we strings that narrows down before it contacts the bridge saddle can create a lot of problems for a very simple reason. For a string to vibrate properly, it must be equal in mass per the unit length. The problem with a tapered/exposed design is that the speaking length of the string (from the nut to the bridge saddle) is not the same thickness. This can introduce a lot of nasty harmonics/overtones particularly on the higher fretted notes on the string. This problem is directly related to how much taper extends past the bridge saddle. In DR's case, they are know to have a much longer than usual taper (they are actually designed for string through body use) and will sound terrible top loaded. The best design to me and my ears is Rotosound PSD that have adjustable ball ends so you can make the windings start immediately after bridge contact.

 

[knuckle_head]

Without question if you go from non-taperd to tapered strings you need to do a setup. A tapered string lets the full thickness sit closer to your frets and closer to the pickups.

There will be a brighter tone to a tapered string - the upper harmonics will be much more pronounced. There is a long explanation to this and I can provide it, but it doesn't serve your immediate purposes.

If what you are hearing is actually chorusing it is likely that your strings are sitting too close to your pickups. If what you are hearing is inharmonic content then you are working with a string that is constructed too rigidly. A string that is too rigid (as opposed to too tight) starts behaving more like a marimba key rather than a string if it is not flexible enough.

I would suggest both a good setup and backing off the pickups a bit to see if this solves your problems.

 

[ixlramp]

^ What GK wrote.
Also, the thinner the tapered section the worse the problem. I like the tapered section to be at least half full gauge and avoid exposed core for this reason.
Most brands design a taper too long for commercial reasons: to fit as many bridge designs as possible. The shortest and best design taper string i know of is Circle K Strings with 1.625" tapered section.
Otherwise you can try threading spacers / washers / ball ends onto the string to pull the full gauge closer to the saddle.
Inharmonicity is harmonics out of tune with the fundamental and each other, this is probably the cause of the chorusing sound.

 

[zortation]

Most tapercore and exposed core strings are garbage. I like the Rotosound idea though, I might give them a shot...

 

[cnltb]

I use exposed core strings and he ones I use do sound as good up to as they do down low.
I use a 29 fret 5 string with through body stringing and a 36" scale.
They work just as well on a top loaded fretless I have.
It's in the set up.

 

[Zooberwerx]

*Roscoe cites the aforementioned problems and does not recommend the use of tapered strings.

*Tapered strings, in general, require bridge intonation positioning well-forward of that with conventional strings.

*Tapered strings create a "step down" bringing the full-thickness wrap closer to the fingerboard and pups. You will have to raise the bridge saddle height to compensate.

Riis

 

[zortation]

*Roscoe cites the aforementioned problems and does not recommend the use of tapered strings.

*Tapered strings, in general, require bridge intonation positioning well-forward of that with conventional strings.

*Tapered strings create a "step down" bringing the full-thickness wrap closer to the fingerboard and pups. You will have to raise the bridge saddle height to compensate.

Riis

I did all that, they still suck.

 

[knuckle_head]

Not all strings - tapered, bare core, or otherwise - are created equal.

There ARE good tapered strings and good and proper implementation of them.

 

[SturmUndDrang]

How bout LaBella Stainless Steel? When they were called hard rockin' steels, I believe they had a tapered E and B. Do the current stainless steels still have this feature? If so, is the taper designed to fall over the bridge saddle or behind it?

 

[knuckle_head]

If the tapered portion of the string doesn't rest on the saddle there is no point in using a tapered string specifically - any string will do.

Minimizing the tapered length of string beyond the saddle gives you the best tonal advantage.

 

[SturmUndDrang]

Good point. I'm sure others may argue their merits but I think a string should have a consistent diameter from nut to saddle. Anyone know about the La Bellas?

 

[knuckle_head]

The ideal circumstance would be for a string to flex at a single point at the saddle. The thicker the string is the further behind the saddle's witness point the string actually vibrates from - this is what causes the tonal differences between the different string types.

As a single point is essentially impossible to do, the nearest best alternative is bare core. Roto executes this best in giving the player the opportunity to secure the ball end anywhere along the core and bring the full thickness as close to the saddle as can be managed.

Most taper core strings are a one-size-fits-all thing - they are designed to work on through body basses which is a huge compromise if you top load as it puts at minimum 1.5" of taper between the nut and saddle.

 

[Munjibunga]

I did all that, they still suck.

Have you also adjusted the saddle heights to raise the strings up to where they'd be with non-tapered strings?

 

[zortation]

Have you also adjusted the saddle heights to raise the strings up to where they'd be with non-tapered strings?

Yes. I use a steel rule...proper setup is an obsession of mine. Everything that can be adjusted on a bridge is adjusted.

The other posters are correct, strings that use reduced windings at the saddle break are either purpose-built for a specific bass and bridge, or they aren't. And if they aren't, you'll hate them.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Yes. I use a steel rule...proper setup is an obsession of mine. Everything that can be adjusted on a bridge is adjusted.

The other posters are correct, strings that use reduced windings at the saddle break are either purpose-built for a specific bass and bridge, or they aren't. And if they aren't, you'll hate them.

Funny you mentioned that...

Tapered & exposed core strings are particularly troublesome when used with fixed radius bridges (Ric, Gibson 3-point, Alembic).

Riis

 

[zortation]

Funny you mentioned that...

Tapered & exposed core strings are particularly troublesome when used with fixed radius bridges (Ric, Gibson 3-point, Alembic).

Riis

It may be the difference in winding diameter if they are reduced core strings

 

[Munjibunga]

Yes. I use a steel rule...proper setup is an obsession of mine. Everything that can be adjusted on a bridge is adjusted.

The other posters are correct, strings that use reduced windings at the saddle break are either purpose-built for a specific bass and bridge, or they aren't. And if they aren't, you'll hate them.

There may be some truth to that. F Basses come with exposed-core strings, and they work just fine. But I wouldn't take a chance putting them on something else.

 

[zortation]

There may be some truth to that. F Basses come with exposed-core strings, and they work just fine. But I wouldn't take a chance putting them on something else.

It depends on the player, ultimately. In my experience with BN5s and exposed core strings I have yet to come across one that didn't have this problem.

 

[Munjibunga]

It depends on the player, ultimately. In my experience with BN5s and exposed core strings I have yet to come across one that didn't have this problem.

Hmmm. Never had that issue with any of mine.