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The Acoustic Club
- Thread starter The Owl
- Start date
Gaolee
Official leathers tester and crash dummy
And I'm up one 43 year old Acoustic 360 and saw the 0 year old Acoustic 360 on its way to its new home. I'm another happy chap. I'm not sure how the new one could sound better than the old one.
May I join? I just bought a brand new B200 combo. Proof is below.
Quick question: anything I should do? I mean like tighten certain screws that tend to come loose, change some wire to larger gauge, or whatever?
Quick question: anything I should do? I mean like tighten certain screws that tend to come loose, change some wire to larger gauge, or whatever?
The only thing I've found actually defective - and it may not be so any more after the stink I caused at Places Acoustic - is the poor quality of the spade connectors on the speaker lugs.
They got loose on one of my 10s on my B-450 and made me think the thing had blown or at least smoked a driver.
'Twasn't so, though. I just soldered pigtails on the lugs and re-spade'd them to the wires and it's never gone bad again.
Oh - and keep Monster Cables outta the holes. They stretch the springs out on the jacks and that can cause some grief.
Next time you've got some extra money (oxymoron? EXTRA + MONEY?) get the B-115Neo cab to go under it for some more power. It fits perfectly.
Enjoy - and get some wheels from Lowe's - the Sheppard dual wheel ones are great!
Thanks for the number, Owl!
Thanks for the reply, SurferJoe! Stupid question: how do I open this thing? Do I have to peel off the black plastic stuff?
Thanks for the reply, SurferJoe! Stupid question: how do I open this thing? Do I have to peel off the black plastic stuff?
I think your will be the same as my B-450, so I'll post a couple of pixs for ya:::
Beware that your speaker is heavy! Say that three times: H E A V Y .
See if those pixs work for you OK or not. Oh - the screws that hold the speakers in are all nut-sert'd into the front of the mounting area - they are NOT just wood screws.
Beware that your speaker is heavy! Say that three times: H E A V Y .
See if those pixs work for you OK or not. Oh - the screws that hold the speakers in are all nut-sert'd into the front of the mounting area - they are NOT just wood screws.
Thanks for the pics! I didn't think my wife would like to see me tearing into my new $300 box, so I waited 'til she started dinner. 
I'm surprised that it comes apart from the front. I opened it up to see if the screws were tight (they all were). Pics below. Seems like it needs more insulation/batting. Or should I just leave it be?
Just opened it up and removed speaker:
looking into cab:
It is good that the power rating of speaker (250 W) is higher than amp power!
I'm surprised that it comes apart from the front. I opened it up to see if the screws were tight (they all were). Pics below. Seems like it needs more insulation/batting. Or should I just leave it be?Just opened it up and removed speaker:
looking into cab:
It is good that the power rating of speaker (250 W) is higher than amp power!
These are the same lugs that I had trouble with.
I just took them off and soldered short 6" pigtails to them with more automotive grade spade 22Gauge connectors on the wires and stapled the excess wire to a brace and it was all good.
Try to wiggle the little connectors and if they are loose, that will be a problem in the future. They cannot be crimped or tightened to make them hold better. They are poor quality I feel and need replacement.
You've got the same black/white stuffing I had. I just made sure it was stapled in place and it didn't fall down - but I didn't change or add to it.
One more place to check - and I had a small amount of trouble here - is the four screws on top of the cab that hold the amp to the top of the amp-part of the cab suspended off the speaker cab itself.
They weren't really loose, but they weren't really tight either. I gave them a little tightening to make sure they didn't get loose or rattle.
I also jammed some neoprene foam inside from the back between the amp chassis and the bottom of the speaker cab to keep any vibrations from attacking the PC boards (I am a little paranoid) in the amp section.
I just took them off and soldered short 6" pigtails to them with more automotive grade spade 22Gauge connectors on the wires and stapled the excess wire to a brace and it was all good.
Try to wiggle the little connectors and if they are loose, that will be a problem in the future. They cannot be crimped or tightened to make them hold better. They are poor quality I feel and need replacement.
You've got the same black/white stuffing I had. I just made sure it was stapled in place and it didn't fall down - but I didn't change or add to it.
One more place to check - and I had a small amount of trouble here - is the four screws on top of the cab that hold the amp to the top of the amp-part of the cab suspended off the speaker cab itself.
They weren't really loose, but they weren't really tight either. I gave them a little tightening to make sure they didn't get loose or rattle.
I also jammed some neoprene foam inside from the back between the amp chassis and the bottom of the speaker cab to keep any vibrations from attacking the PC boards (I am a little paranoid) in the amp section.
Mr. Foxen
Commercial User
Just picked up this:
Think the cab needs lining. The speakers have white cones, does anyone know what they are, and what their specs are, the box seems tuned really low according to Winisd.
Think the cab needs lining. The speakers have white cones, does anyone know what they are, and what their specs are, the box seems tuned really low according to Winisd.
White cones or driver caps? It looks like the caps are white from the pix to me.
I still won't know the specs though --- it has the shape of the new 410 by the G.P.G Acoustic company although the blue bars run the opposite way, not top to bottom.
I still won't know the specs though --- it has the shape of the new 410 by the G.P.G Acoustic company although the blue bars run the opposite way, not top to bottom.
Just picked up this:
Think the cab needs lining. The speakers have white cones, does anyone know what they are, and what their specs are, the box seems tuned really low according to Winisd.
That's a 402 cab.
Link Removed
Mr. Foxen
Commercial User
Yeah, I meant white dust caps. Still not sure what make the drivers are, they have round magnets, not the square eminence one like in the 126 I had,
The speakers will be some sort of Eminence. I use a 402 for alot of stuff and it's just a GREAT all around cab. Easy to move, LOUD, great tone.
There are some good threads on the Acoustic forum about this cab FYI. There was a guy who was going to build a replica recently so I measured mine for him to copy. It would be interesting if someone ran the numbers into the speaker softwear to see whats going on in there....
There are some good threads on the Acoustic forum about this cab FYI. There was a guy who was going to build a replica recently so I measured mine for him to copy. It would be interesting if someone ran the numbers into the speaker softwear to see whats going on in there....
These are standard "quick connect" connectors. They always move a little, which usually isn't a problem. But I sure can see them being a problem in a bass amp box! Next time I have it open, I'll do like you did. Or just solder directly; I don't think I'll be removing the speaker often (or at all).
I was thinking of adding more so see if it's any better, but I really don't know what "better" is yet. I'll wait 'til I've been playing a while and see if the sound changes (for the better) with more stuffing.
I'll do same.
Thanks much!
So how does the extra cabinet effect volume/sound?
Already a part of the club. But my rig got an update.. Figured I'd share
Its awesome
Well - it'll increase the Wattage by taking the amp closer to it's rated load, so there's that.
The15 will also add some air motion --- up to a point.
The 115 will take 1/2 the power, but only deliver a portion of the total ability of the 410. I know the 115 might be rated at 200 Watts, but don't think you'll get it to perform at that level.
I've run this 410/115 combo a few times and if you keep the volume down, it's pretty nice - but if you crank it up, things will get ratty soon as you cross about 1 o'clock on the volume.
Just don't push that 115 too hard and listen to it so you know where to stop adding power or low freqs.
Just in case you think I'm ragging on Acoustic, I am not. I own much of their bass amplifiers and cabinets, although for some reason I don't have the B-200H as you do.
The15 will also add some air motion --- up to a point.
The 115 will take 1/2 the power, but only deliver a portion of the total ability of the 410. I know the 115 might be rated at 200 Watts, but don't think you'll get it to perform at that level.
I've run this 410/115 combo a few times and if you keep the volume down, it's pretty nice - but if you crank it up, things will get ratty soon as you cross about 1 o'clock on the volume.
Just don't push that 115 too hard and listen to it so you know where to stop adding power or low freqs.
Just in case you think I'm ragging on Acoustic, I am not. I own much of their bass amplifiers and cabinets, although for some reason I don't have the B-200H as you do.
Can you guys help ID this amp? Saw it in a shop today, but didn't have time to mess around with it.
