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The Acoustic Club

Just picked up a new to me cab from the original owner. He bought it new in 77 in NY and had it on CL. He ended up being about six miles away from my home in GA. Anyhow it pairs up nicely with my 370. So here's to a new member of my Acoustic family. A 405 4 ohms, 412 with 2 horns.
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Picking up my 370 this coming week, 'tis all done. Will post on that...

Now a 301 question:
If I am playing a party outside, say this coming Saturday July 4th, and if I was to set my large-ish 301 Transducer back a few yards behind what would normally be our back-line, and what if I laid the auld beast on its side, maybe with a 2x4 under the front of it to tilt its face up a little... would I be messing with that renown 'beaming' issue that gets so much attention from so many around here? Granted there is only 1 driver in the box, but it's got that folded-horn design, so that the two large vents that are normally aligned in a vertical array would now be aligned horizontally. Would this present a problem?

The purpose in doing this, of course, would be to enable its use in more of a monitoring capacity. One tends to hear more of it when one is farther away- for all the real and actual reasons that condition exists... :)

I'm just trying to find ways to use it that warrant keeping it. Otherwise it's a beast to move up and down the steps- rough mortared stone- to my house.
 
If I am playing a party outside, say this coming Saturday July 4th, and if I was to set my large-ish 301 Transducer back a few yards behind what would normally be our back-line, and what if I laid the auld beast on its side, maybe with a 2x4 under the front of it to tilt its face up a little... would I be messing with that renown 'beaming' issue that gets so much attention from so many around here? Granted there is only 1 driver in the box, but it's got that folded-horn design, so that the two large vents that are normally aligned in a vertical array would now be aligned horizontally. Would this present a problem?


I'm not sure whether the 2x4 is a great idea, but otherwise you'd probably be OK laying it on its side. If you're interested in the science behind that, here is a very detailed theoretical analysis over on the Acoustic forum from someone with stellar credentials (definitely not me):

Optimum direction depends on usage: fullrange or bass bin
 
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Well after purchasing my 360/361 some time ago (maybe almost two years now) I finally got off my lazy butt and drug it out of the room for a show. It was great.

No problems whatsoever hearing myself up close to it. It sounded the same from one foot away to 500 feet away. The thing cut through nicely too with a wonderful sound all night long.

@Dave Hill
 
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Got my 370 back from the shop, ran it through my SWR Basic Black mini-stack last night... the mini-stack is a basic Black combo on top of a Basic 2-Way cab. The combo has been modded with a switching-jack to be able to work as cab-only with an external head. So I had the 370 plugged into the both cabs- sounded big and full. Now I've got to learn to use the eq!

Anyone have a good procedure for nailing down the eq on a 370, and/or some good setting you use?
 
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Eq is going to depend on the room, what you are sending through the amp, and what your purpose is. I use radically different eq settings depending on the situation. Starting flat and tweaking by ear until it sounds good is the way I do it. It's not scientific, but it generally comes up with a good sound.
 
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Eq is going to depend on the room, what you are sending through the amp, and what your purpose is. I use radically different eq settings depending on the situation. Starting flat and tweaking by ear until it sounds good is the way I do it. It's not scientific, but it generally comes up with a good sound.

Part of my question relates to use of the distinct eq sections on the amp: Graphic or "tone controls"... do you have a procedure for where you start from, and any comment concerning the quality/character of the graphic?
 
I stay pretty close to this
Volume around two
Treble at noon
Mids around 2 o clock
Bass around 3 or 4

Then start with graphic EQ flat. most of my adjustments to new rooms happen on the graphic EQ first two sliders I usually keep boosted a bit. Third one I can really bring in the mids with so it might end up boosted too. The last two I keep flat dead center on 0.

You can also hit the bright switch to add in some grindy highs.

And lastly always plug in a dummy jack into input two and leave it. More fullness and volume will be added to your sound with this trick
 
Part of my question relates to use of the distinct eq sections on the amp: Graphic or "tone controls"... do you have a procedure for where you start from, and any comment concerning the quality/character of the graphic?
I start with the graphic on the 320, and it's where I started when I had a 370. It's only when you need some really heavy handed boosts or cuts that you get into the tone knobs. At least that's how I approach it. Generally, I leave those flat unless the sound needs more than the graphic can give it. I don't actually know the amounts of boost/cut that the knobs and graphic are capable of.

The 360s are a different animal, since they don't have a graphic eq at all, and do have a varitone that boosts or cuts a specific frequency range, and then knobs. It's a different way to do the same thing.
 
...And lastly always plug in a dummy jack into input two and leave it. More fullness and volume will be added to your sound with this trick

Now THAT'S what ahm talkin' about! Lol... I'll remember that.

All comments are much appreciated. Last 2 gigs I had graphic slider 2 all the way up, most everything else 'flat', #down just a bit, #5 up just a bit. Treble on 2 or so, Volume up a tad past 2. Used the SWR Basic Black Stack as cabs. The sum effect of this was I got a super-clean, very contrast-y tone with full low end and an almost brittle-like midrange. Not snarly, just sort of an "On/Off" kind of tone. If that makes any sense.

More tweaking... thanks guys!
 
Got my 1968 361pp last year sans power amp with original CV 18" driver, and just got a 1970 360 preamp to go with it. All for about $400. So I brought it all down to the practice room, and took my 1974 Fender J and my 1995 Ken Smith CR-5 out for a spin. Power was provided by one side of an SWR Stereo 800.

Cacophonous Fox bass noodlies - YouTube

UPSHOT: I love this rig how this rig sounds and responds. Should have gotten one thirty years ago.

Well, well, well--look what I just had delivered to my door for $238.00. Some dirty water and a bit of rust, but all there. Looks like I'll be getting the band back together.

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