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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Rôckhewer, Jul 13, 2017.
Dang.... that IS thin.
No, it will be fine... the fingerboard, since it has lights in it, had to be left somwhat thick.
The combination if the two will make for a normal neck thickness
Did the forum overall layout just change?....or...
I don't notice anything different. At home on a mac...
Ok, that's wierd....
Must be my phone?
In reply to thread edit mode, my avatar was 4 times bigger...the options buttons were smaller...etc..etc...
But now it's back to normal.
Speaking of which... isn't there a new-ish mobile app for TB..?
Anybody using it? (Android)
Looks the same to me, since you haven't lost all your photos, I assume you are not using Photobucket? I have to go through and re-populate all my threads, sigh.....
yes, there's an Android app, I'm using it, it works fine, but most of the time I'm on a computer when I post or look at stuff. Sometimes when I'm traveling it's a good option.
I have counted on the forum to save my pics...
When I desroyed my last phone & had limited backup... i retrieved a lot from here... thankfully.
I never have liked photobucket.
Not having to laminate 7 layer wings has saved me a little time on this build.... although, by this point I usually have the fingerboard attached & fretwork done. So there's that yet to come...(minor downside being, I won't have the luxury of freedom of upper fret access, without the wings in the way)
I did it this way because I wanted to be able to flush sand the wings to the neck at the "heel" area, without the fingerboard in the way. Given the fact that I still needed to effect a body to neck angle.... with the 4 extra frets AND the wide neck at the body, complicating that somewhat. The wing joint, mainly at the upper horn required some finesse...as it would be slightly proud of the neck for a few inches. I didn't want the upper body to have the 'break' of that angle manifested anywhere too obviously. Plus the risk of ANY damage to a fingerboard that has a week or more of inlay & lights work, ...by significantly sanding the lippage of angled up wing joint right next to it?... no thanks.
Also, here's a bonus I was counting on, but hoping it wouldn't be too much.... a portion of the neck under the end of the fingerboard got ever so slightly angled back during the flushing up/body angle creation process. I knew this would happen going in. But to what extent? Some checking with a straightedge showed that it is about the same amount I typically angle back the last several frets for anti-ski jump fallaway....anyway ! (Love when a plan comes together!)
I will also be mounting the bass in my neck jig prior to gluing on the FB....so that procedure will be highly controllably... controlled and precisely...precise.
Then after the FB is dry, ...(still in the jig)...I can immediately move on to fret leveling & dressing... because I will have installed them prior to glue up.
Wing glue up.
I inserted a chunk of an old E string into the series of connected drilled holes, by which route the wires for the FB lights back to the control cavity. This kept glue from fouling the path at the wing joint.
The fingerboard is just sitting in place dry for this pic.
I kind of like this body design with the 'stagger' effect of the wings that allow access to the extra frets. My usual pointy protruberance behind the bridge eliminated in favor of this swoopy...swoop
This whole thing was a custom, one-off designed by necessity for customer preference.
But I am really diggin it. I will likely do it this way again.
And, another bonus....without all that extra hardwood... it seems to have about 2 pounds shaved off the usuall weight!
Don't get me wrong...I love my Hippie sandwiches!
And the 5A quilted billet for these wings wasn't cheap... so there are tradeoffs to be considered... but changing things up once in a while is what is so fun about building 'custom' ....I friggin love it!!
Everything but the fingerboard is going to be TransTint blue. Should be pretty.
Also I discussed with the owner ...that I thought a gloss finish would be nicer than the matte which was planned. He agreed...
These wooden output jack cups are simple to make and look nice. IMO
2 bits, 2hole saws & a drill press w/ a vise.
Are you using your usual batwing tailpiece, or making something unique due to the body shape?
I am going to go ahead & use it. But it will be the topload style I use on 35" scale.
It doesn't look bad on paper anyway...
I see how the jack connects to the cup, but how does that assembly attach to the bass?
I drill a hole the same size as the OD of the cup and glue it in.
My topload "batwing" tailpiece.
Always a semi painful process... because I honestly have no love for metal work...
I cut the basic shape out of solid brass plate.. on a waterjet. Then use a manual endmill to cut the slots & such , then finish it up by sanding to 800 then polishing on a bench grinder type buffing wheel.
The first slot is so big because this bass is to be strung BEAD starting at a .135" B string.
I aspire to be as good at things you don't really like, as the things I do like, if that makes sense. Just awful metal work there, Rock, tedious drudgery, and it shows in your lackluster execution.
Just wondering...would you ever make and sell a copy of the batwing tailpiece? I'm eventually planning on an Alembic Balance K style build........
You may not like doing the metal work but you do it well! And thanks for the inspiration! I haven't worked with brass in years but I will be doing a cocobolo and brass lamination and turning it into a bridge for a cello-guitar I'll be making.
Alex,.... I can't say that is something I won't do...
But it might resemble a certain online parts & tools sellers pricing structure... that bears the initials SM
SM pricing is what it is because it costs time & money to make quality. I would hope that none of us would sell ourselves short.
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