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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by ERIC31, May 28, 2015.
Yeah, that’s not right.
I <believe> both mine are Jatoba, they both seem to have the same type of long, dark, tight grain striations running through it.
IIRC, one of my Talman is from 2016, the other 2018 (I'll have to check the serials tonight).
EDIT: Nope, both made in 2018.
Rosewood also has open grain, but the grain lines on the Talman seem pretty pronounced & tight and there is a slight reddish orange hue to both fretboards.
The grain pattern and coloring are not quiet like any other Rosewood fretboard I've owned. So my belief is that both of mine are Jatoba.
Here is picture of one of my fretboards while I was polishing up the frets a while back.
Jatoba pic from the The Wood Database:
Rosewood pic from The Wood Database:
Seeing this guy gave me serious gas for another Talman so I just now purchased one from Reverb. And seriously thinking about getting a second one to totally ripoff this gold beauty here, the best looking bass on TB right now imo. Not sure whether to thank you or shake my fist at you. But seeing I'm only down $140, I think I'll thank you!
Thanks for the kind words man! I just got back from a gig tonight with it (first gig with it since it was refinished) - although I did not receive any comments on the looks, I got some rather remarkable unsolicited compliments on the tone. Your post really made my evening - thanks! And yeah - I love the color and glad you do too. I think it looks totally sharp on the Talman body style - if you are considering it, Pat Wilkins is the man!
Congrats on the Talman - and at a great price!
Does anyone know if a standard pbass neck will fit the Talman body? I found one that has a bad truss rod for a good price and I wanted to swap the neck with a vintage style pbass neck I have.
I finally got my bass back from the luthier!!
Man is she punchy!
That's a Bill Lawrence P in the neck, and SPB-3 Quarter Pounders in the bridge. I also replaced the pots with Bourns in a Volume-Blend-Tone setup (500K Volume and Tone, 250K ungrounded blend).
You can't see it very well in the picture but I also added Sadowsky-style metal knobs, and Gotoh Res-O-Lite tuners (they were actually too small for the holes, but they fit perfectly inside the metal sleeve of the original tuners).
I plan to add some inlay stickers, put a Babicz Z-style bridge on, and get a P-style bridge cover at some point. I'm also considering moving the far tuning peg closer and rounding off the headstock some, but all of that would be down the road a ways.
That looks like a fantastic machine! Loving that pickguard, and the all black strings/hardware looks really clean and snazzy. What are those strings?
Thanks!! They’re LaBella Nylon Tapewounds. I don’t play with anything else!
I'm a proud owner of a TMB30 in Mint Green as you can see on my profile picture. Love the thing and just discovered this owner's group...
I have read the first 11 pages of the thread, and the answer to my question might be on one of the 37 other pages, but i can't read the whole thing so i'll ask: i have little tuning problems. I put some Rotosound Black Nylon Tape Short Scale strings as soon as i got the bass, so i do not know if the problem comes from the strings or the tuning pegs but the bass can't seem to stay in tune. And even when i tune it: i'll turn the tuning peg slightly to one side and the string will go sharp, turn in back the other way, the string will go even flatter than before by an amount that is not proportional to the turning of the peg.
I've owned quite a few basses over the past few years and it's the first time this happens. Do you guys have problems with the tuning pegs? Is it just a matter of just putting a little big of pencil in the nut slots?
I'd appreciate your help, Thanks!
Well, I got bit. I debated on the TMB100 and TMB300 for a while, but then I found this "last one" TMB600 on Sweetwater yesterday for a good price. Salesman says they are being discontinued. Should get it tomorrow, and, as you might expect, I can't wait. A couple of questions for you seasoned TMBers:
1) I'm a bit concerned about the weight. Mine is only a four string, but the salesman says that it weighs 10 pounds 10 oz. Holy cow! Is this typical for the 34" scales?
2) Are any of you running flats (like Chromes or Black Nylons) on your TMBs? Do you like them? Or have you gone back to round wounds? I realize string preferences are very personal, but I'm just curious as to what TMB owners like on their basses?
As mentioned in my post earlier today i use Black Nylons on my TMB30, but they keep detuning. Maybe the longer scaled, better finished TMBs don't have that problem though..
Lot of experience on 6-string, new to bass.
To Outtaseezun: You should rest assured that the TMB30 is not structurally inferior. Maybe search on the topic "set witness points".
To Outtaseezun and sdgrfan: This is all I can tell you: On a 30" scale TMB30, I had to admit that LaBella 0760M-S (52-73-95-110) was too heavy for me. My reason was given in this post, where I quoted others above me in the thread who know a lot more: Science Behind Round/Flat String Sound?.
My interpretation of words like "thump", when referring to very heavy flats, is now this: "thump" is a brief splash of "overtones that are not harmonics of the fundamental", which decay very quickly. I, myself, had to admit that I don't like it. I switched to LaBella 0760FS-S (45-65-85-105) which I already had, and it's a little better and I'm happy with them, but I now won't rule out lighter than that, or maybe ground-wounds; I don't want any metallic brightness, but I don't want "overtones that are not harmonics of the fundamental" either.
Finally, something I haven't said before: I was surprised by how great this TMB30 sounded with the stock rounds, using a microphone amp (perfectly clean), but I was set on flats. After installing the legendary 0760Ms, I was surprised in a negative way, through that mic amp. Of course, they have their application, with the right amp etc.
One of my reasons for going heavier was to get the tension back up (because of the shorter scale). It turned out that this other factor outweighed that, for me.
I see that you said "I've owned quite a few basses over the past few years", so sorry if told you something you already know. But your post #949 makes me think that your strings just haven't settled yet (as my TMB30 is very solid). I have no experience with nylons. Oh, the nut is soft plastic (probably the only *mechanical* problem with the TMB30, but not critical), and it's possible that the nylon sticks in the plastic. I don't know.
My habit (and I believe this is well-founded) is always approach the desired tuning from below, always tuning up toward the desired note (so any tuner slop is already taken up). I'm completely happy with the tuners and the tuning stability of the TMB30.
I removed the J pickup and pot, sorry.
The P pickup is very strong and has very strong bass output. How do I know this? I was building a tube amp for it (lot of experience) and couldn't squeeze this signal through a traditional Fender type circuit with the expected behavior/sound and found myself having to provide for additional bass rolloff. (I don't want to turn the volume down at the bass.) I'm not an expert on bass pickups, but I bought a Fender "Original" (AKA "Original 62") for it, and not surprisingly, a Fender-sized signal now fits through a traditional Fender-designed preamp. The stock TMB30 P pickup's magnets were more than 4 times stronger than those in the "Original" (measured by hanging metal from a polepiece and then weighing the metal). So, don't quote me, and I didn't measure it, but they must be on the SD Quarter Pounder end of the spectrum with regard to output and bass (but all I know about the SD QP is what I've heard on Youtube reviews which compare them with the "Original").
Summary: I was very happy with the sound of the TMB30 stock P pickup, very beautiful. Just be prepared to turn it down to get a traditional tone from a traditional amp circuit.
The pickup and control cavities are coated thoroughly with conductive paint. The resistance is not zero from one end to the other, but about 125 ohms (I believe this is typical of conductive paint), and I am confident enough that this makes no difference and I'll leave it alone.
The pots are physically smaller than those used in the olden days, but this is actually a small advantage with regard to hum pickup, and as long as they operate smoothly there is no reason to change them.
Values are 500K, with a .047 cap.
Hey guys! Thank you for your replies!
It's reassuring that the bass is not inferior to others. I know that for the SR & BTB series for example, the first or first two digits are an indicator of the quality, and the last is for the number of strings (SR600 = not bad at all, four strings; BTB1406 = expensive pro stuff, with 6 strings), so i assumed the TMBs were following the same logic. Even if it were the case, i love my TMB30. It has become my go to bass.
And yes i have owned a few basses, but i really suck at all the gear talk and technical aspects of the instrument itself. I only joined this forum like a month ago, and there is just so much data and contradictory opinions that i don't know who to follow or where to look for the reply that'll solve my problem.
I got the bass three months ago, and put the Black Nylons on it immediately. So i assume the strings would have had time to settle no? And usually i do approach the tuning process from under the note to slowly reach to the desired tuning, but with those pegs or strings, for some reason, you'll turn a lot to no effect, then turn a little more and have huge differences in tuning...
I saw that idea of putting pencil/graphite in the nut slots in a video somewhere, but i don't know if that's my solution...
Must be sticking in the nut.
I haven't read your thread about the "Science behind Round/Flat String Sound" yet but it's open and ready to be read. I just wanted to say that i just checked and the strings that i have on mine are Rotosound RS88S TruBass Strings (65-75-90-115). I don't know if this is good or bad, it's my first time trying those and i really like what i get from them with the TMB30. Really love it. My only problem seems to be a sticky nut? Unless you guys have other opinions/experiences?
Hey by the way, how do U get a number? I read in the opening of this thread that posting a picture was necessary, but does my profile pic count? And who gives me a number?
On my set, 52-73-95-110, one of the slots had to be hit very lightly with a sandpaper nail file (about three strokes per side), I think it was the A, the low E had to "pop" into the slot but didn't stick, and the others were ok.
So, you almost certainly need nut work.
(If I had to get that done, or had to buy the tools to do it myself, I might take that opportunity to switch to a harder nut material too.)
I don't have a number because I haven't submitted any picture.
Can i sound stupid just a little more? Those numbers on those packs of strings: the bigger they are, the thinner the strings then?
And since Ur strings were that tight in the slots, did U not have any problems with tuning?
Here's a picture!!
No, the bigger the numbers the thicker the strings, so yours are thicker.
The numbers are thousands of an inch: 52 = .052 inch, etc.