So to carry on the discussion from RC11, I don't find it bad that Rics don't come with the tool. I was scared as hell to adjust mine at all even though it needed it. Over time I got brave and ordered a tool (not from Ric) and have since adjusted 2 of my Rics following the very specific directions from Joey's Bass Notes and some helpful people here. But I can see that it's not something for everyone. Just like wrenching on your car or popping the cover of your computer is not for everyone.
I agree, and after adjusting with the wrong tool, I got mine off the internet for even cheaper. I used the same company that actually makes the tool for Ric. It's a 1/4 inch, long reach nutdriver. Here is the name on the handle:
Virtually every other instrument manufacturer provides the tools required to maintain equipment at it's basic level. If JH feels that most folks aren't capable of adjusting their own instruments (RICS), then that really speaks more about RICS designs, then it does their customers. I can't say I'm surprised though as it seems to me that so much of RICs way of doing business is nickel and diming. They and more concerned about the health of RIC, then the satisfaction of their customers. As a small business owner myself, I always put my customers interest first. If I don't, history has shown me that they won't be customers of mine for long if I don't. I know that RIC's business is different in that they hold a monopoly on their products, but the short sighted business approach may well come back to haunt them. Fishheadjoe
Quick question for you folk. A lot of buzz on the a string at the first fret but none elsewhere. Truss adjustment, nut issue or possible high fret?
My first Rickenbacker 4001 back in 1981 or so was as mysterious to me as the dark side of the moon! Truss rod?? I didn't adjust it on my Fender p bass, although I knew where it was. Dual truss rods?? No thank you!!.. My tech. knew his way around a Rickenbacker so all was good!. Fast forward 30 years and here I am owning a bunch of them, after having resumed my music "career". If I had to take my basses to a tech every time I needed something done, I'd be broke!! Picking the brain of Rickenbacker guys like Joey, Mark walker, and Dane I'm comfortable with tackling most everything myself. Case in point, my latest restoration. A 1968 4001 in Burgundyglo. it came to me all screwed up with a re-issue horseshoe pick up in place of the magnetic horsie that was supposed be there. Dane got the harness and luckily all the pots and caps were original. he re-built the pots by swapping out the guts with modern internals and using the original 1968 pot cases. Cloth wire is a nice vintage factory touch that he uses. I sources a real horsie, really got luck with that one, and that should arrive next week. Pulled the truss rods, cut both ends and re-threaded the adjustment ends. The finish is original and was in nice shape. Just needed cleaning a Swirl-X buffing. Sepp
My first instinct would be nut because it is only the one string but not without a couple of questions. Is this a new issue and if not what changed in between? New strings? Maybe prior owner cut it down I have read here that some feel Ric factory nut setup is not so good. There are easy ways for temporary (stick a sliver of paper or thin plastic in there) or semi permanent (build the slot back up with epoxy or crazy glue and readjust). I have a 6 string that someone cut the A string nut slot so low I had to put a piece of another string, maybe G, to get it to play. I fixed that one with epoxy mixed with shavings from an old nut, filled it up and re cut the slot. Others will no doubt have suggestions. I have not touched the nut on one of my Rics so there may be some specifics of which I am unaware.
Ric is brand new and is still wearing the factory strings. I think the nut height is ok as there is clearance when I fret the 3rd fret. On closer inspection it's on the first fret on all strings but mainly noticeable on the A and D string.
Since these are so rare (and cool) thought I would alert TBers that there is a nice 4080 listed for sale over on the RRF. DrWho is the seller and he is in the Tustin-Santa Ana area of So Calif. Check it out if interested http://www.rickresource.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=411180
I'm curious to see what it sells for. I need to set a replacement value for mine for insurance purposes. Mine is very similar.
Wow. Do you have a good straight edge? Put it across frets one to three between A and D. If there's a gap at two then one is high, not good for brand new.
Indeed, and the grain being at a different angle than both the neck-through and the curve of the upper horn gives it a very interesting look.