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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by smperry, Apr 15, 2014.
I love your solution. Unfortunately I already glued them suckers in . They’re never coming out
Number please My first Rick is on its way from a fellow TB'er. I never thought I'd own one, but I got the bug. Going off p-basses for awhile.
This one has a few upgrades.
- Classic Amplification pickups
- Hipshot bridge
- Chandler PG
- Treble PU bezel
I have a StewMac 1/4" driver on the way, and I'm trying to decide what strings I want to put on it. I torn between my favorite Dunlop Flats and TI Jazz Flats.
the hipshot hb5 tuner bushings have an outer diameter of .4375” and the rickenbacker branded schaller bmc tuner bushings have an outer diameter of .5”.
That is a SICK bass! That pickguard just looks so nice on there, and the upgrades are awesome. You’re gonna love the hipshot, it made my already great 4003SW so much better in a number of ways.
What kind of music do you play? Do you like a brighter or thumpier flatwound? I’ve never played TI’s or Dunlops, but I’m about 4-5 months into a set of EB Cobalt flats. They’ve definitely settled, but even with playing anywhere from 1-5 hours a day depending on what’s going on any particular day.... their articulation, growl (oh the growl) and presence is still among the best i’ve ever used on a Rick. For flats i’ve used these, 9050’s, Chromes, SIT’s, and for a good while I rocked D’addario tapes. The Cobalts are stiff in a heavier gauge (55-110) but i have them tuned BEAD and they feel about as light as the tapes did. If you like TI’s you would definitely want as light as you can get!
I'm curious what it is you like about it? I've begun mulling over whether it's something worth doing on my bass, but don't really have much in the way of information/opinions yet. So, like, besides the easier adjustment to intonation, what are the bonuses?
The intonation is the first thing you notice... and as long as you don’t change strings often, you’ll probably never notice it again. What I like is the individual string height and spacing adjustments, they let you tweak things to exactly where they feel the best. I had a weak E on mine until this bridge, when it instantly and permanently disappeared. The extra body contact to me makes a noticeable difference.
It also doesn’t hurt that it’s not in the way when you want to play with a pick by the bridge....
Gotcha. Did you find a noticeable difference in how low you could adjust the saddles compared to the original? The main reason I'm thinking about getting the Hipshot is because the bridge on my bass is bottomed out, and even though it's set-up great right now, if in the future I want to make an adjustment there, I'll be SOL. Wondering if the Hipshot allows for more flexibility there
No question about it - TIs!
You can get about low enough that you could play by blowing on the strings. I had it so flat and low that it was like typing on an iphone to play it. Problem was i like being able to hit it hard when I want to and it was way too low for that. Quarter turn looser on the rods and I’m in heaven.
I have been working on a composition of mine that uses that exact effect. There will be around 14 tracks of bass on it when all is said and done, all with my 2010 NAMM Show Martin Keith fretless Elfin 5. The piece may run to about 15 minutes, 30 sec. when completed.
I can get the strings to lay down on the frets--with the stock bridge/tailpiece. Never had a problem getting it low enough. In fact, it was too low for my playing comfort (and I don't even play that hard), and I had to raise it.
If the bridge is bottomed out on your 4003, you have a neck that's probably lifting up at the point where it transitions to the body. This can be a serious problem, and a Hipshot doesnt go lower than a stock bridge. At least with a stock bridge you can notch the saddles deeper for lower action.
I appreciate your thoughts on this. The neck has a little bow in it at the moment, which I believe is contributing to the scenario. This bass doesn't seem to enjoy having its neck moved significantly while in the depths of winter; it gets super dry and cold here, and it seems my instruments are generally easier to adjust during the spring, when there's a little humidity back in the air. I don't mind waiting til then to get the last of the neck adjusting done. In the mean time, I've got the saddles lowered to compensate for the slightly higher action.
When there is neck lift happening around the body join, how long does that sort of thing take to set in, generally?
Maybe sone of the experts here can chime in, but I'm not aware of this being common with 4003s, especially modern ones. This was found mostly in 4001s where the neck pickup route was too large, resulting in a weak neck at that point. It doesn't get better on it's own.
When my Rick comes in I may want to change out the knobs but I don't know anything about the pots. Will these knobs fit, do you guys know?
or these, which I think are the same
Guitar Parts Factory - Wood Knobs
I like a middle ground flatwound. Something that can thump a little at least, while still retaining some grit if I dig in. I'm happy with Dunlop Flats in that regard, though I've liked TI's in the past too for that.
Only if the knobs are set screw knobs, and I think these are push-on style.
Are Rick knobs set screw?
Welcome to the club!
Those won't work. They are for import (metric) pots / 6mm. Also, they're push on, for a split shaft.
You want US sized knobs. 1/4" Solid Shaft, with set screw. Press on knobs go on Split shaft pots, which has knurls / splines. Those types also have differing numbers of splines to fit differing knobs, but that is not our concern. Best of luck.