The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

So, I need a little help from wiser people.

I just received my new, Finally v2 DI box and I can't get it to work. There is no output on the XLR and the inst out only has output when it is switched to "dry pass". No signal at all when "pre out" is selected. I've tried adjusting the XLR trim pot, as well as the "Level" and "Gain" knobs with no affect.
It seems like the pre is toast!

Anyone have suggestions? (I've email Sushi Box but no response yet)

Thanks for any help!

Rob
 
So, I need a little help from wiser people.

I just received my new, Finally v2 DI box and I can't get it to work. There is no output on the XLR and the inst out only has output when it is switched to "dry pass". No signal at all when "pre out" is selected. I've tried adjusting the XLR trim pot, as well as the "Level" and "Gain" knobs with no affect.
It seems like the pre is toast!

Anyone have suggestions? (I've email Sushi Box but no response yet)

Thanks for any help!

Rob
Hey, sorry I'm still at work and just saw your email. What power supply are you using with the pedal?
 
So, I need a little help from wiser people.

I just received my new, Finally v2 DI box and I can't get it to work. There is no output on the XLR and the inst out only has output when it is switched to "dry pass". No signal at all when "pre out" is selected. I've tried adjusting the XLR trim pot, as well as the "Level" and "Gain" knobs with no affect.
It seems like the pre is toast!

Anyone have suggestions? (I've email Sushi Box but no response yet)

Thanks for any help!

Rob
I'd check the tube, it might have gotten slightly disconnected from the socket during transit.
 
the new version of Detective is ready to go and I have 5 units in stock
Every time I look at the Detective I wonder what it is, I always have to find one current pedal and one pedal in the archives to figure it out.
It says it is a combination of the Elementary and Dr Watson, Dr Watson is in the archives since it is no longer in production.
I find it a little bit awkward to go searching for the other pedals when it is just both channels of a Hiwatt DR103.
Perhaps a better description of current pedals might make it easier for shoppers to know what they are, especially when you look at the first page with all the pedals together.

The Detective JC Emerald Underground Accelerator
Hiwatt DR103 JCM 800 Alembic F2B

Just my opinion on how I like things layed out.
 
The power supply I'm using is the Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2+
That power supply might not have enough output for the Finally, the 2 high current outlets only supply 250mA at 9V, and the other 4 9V outlets only deliver 100mA.
You should use a supply that can deliver 400mA at least to drive the Finally
 
Ripped the Quad Cortex off the board and checking out what an all-analog lifestyle looks like.

UA and Elementary are fighting for the preamp slot once I downsize this Duo 17 to a Solo 18 -- they're both good :smug:

Today I learned it's definitely possible to drive the input of the Neptunium too hard with the UA, so I adjusted the trimpot on the UA to get a more usable sweep


IMG_0478.jpg
 
Ripped the Quad Cortex off the board and checking out what an all-analog lifestyle looks like.

UA and Elementary are fighting for the preamp slot once I downsize this Duo 17 to a Solo 18 -- they're both good :smug:

Today I learned it's definitely possible to drive the input of the Neptunium too hard with the UA, so I adjusted the trimpot on the UA to get a more usable sweep


View attachment 7034891

Is the EUNA really worth the space on the board? Does it anything better than let's say another good buffer like a Caveman Audio Pre or a Broughton BBA?
 
Ripped the Quad Cortex off the board and checking out what an all-analog lifestyle looks like.

UA and Elementary are fighting for the preamp slot once I downsize this Duo 17 to a Solo 18 -- they're both good :smug:

Today I learned it's definitely possible to drive the input of the Neptunium too hard with the UA, so I adjusted the trimpot on the UA to get a more usable sweep


View attachment 7034891
I don't see a Slampegg. I think you have more purchasing to do.
 
Señor Sushi, would you remind us how this version differs from the last version of the Detective? Are the differences something that one can hear (especially in a mix)?
In a mix, maybe not. The most noticeable difference will be the upgrade from hard switching (feeling and sometimes hearing a "click") to soft switching. But on the internals I did upgrade to film capacitors like the old handwired versions of pedals used to have. As mentioned how audible of a difference that will impart depends on the setting, but I promise if I didn't think it was worth it I wouldn't have done it.
 
Did your previous version also have those attenuation switches for each channel?
On the previous version they were trimpots instead of switches, but on the new versions of things I figured people are either going to want the output super hot (for pushing a power amp) or closer to instrument level (for going into an amp, etc), so the switches are basically instrument level and line level. Underground Accelerator, Elementary, and JC Emerald have also moved over to switches, as will the new Dreamcatcher when it's ready (most likely next week.
 
I will always recommend the 1Spot, which gives 1700mA, but I know people like their brick style power supplies, so maybe one of these days I'll get around to designing one of those with a bunch of high current outputs.


So I have a mini tube Slampegg on my pedal board, that I'm currently trying to power with a battery bank. The pedals flash for about 5 seconds at first, then everything stabilizes. Do you think this is dangerous for either the pedals or my Cioks 4 power supply?

I see here you recommend the 1Spot 9V adapter that does 1700mA at 9V. Do you think that'd fix my issues? Other than the Slampegg (which I guess requires 600mA?), the rest of my pedals combined work out to 101mA. The Cioks 4 should put out 660mA at 9v max at each of the four outlets.

That Slampegg is the perfect outboard preamp sound I've been looking for, so I'm hoping to make this work!
 
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So I have a mini tube Slampegg on my pedal board, that I'm currently trying to power with a battery bank. The pedals flash for about 5 seconds at first, then everything stabilizes. Do you think this is dangerous for either the pedals or my Cioks 4 power supply?

I see here you recommend the 1Spot 9V adapter that does 1700mA at 9V. Do you think that'd fix my issues? Other than the Slampegg (which I guess requires 600mA?), the rest of my pedals combined work out to 101mA. The Cioks 4 should put out 660mA at 9v max at each of the four outlets.

That Slampegg is the perfect outboard preamp sound I've been looking for, so I'm hoping to make this work!
If it stabilizes then it's fine, I wouldn't worry. I get comments every now and then about a pedal's LED flashing when it first powers on, and basically what's happening is power cycling of the power supply. What most power supplies do is:
  1. Attempt to power on
  2. Monitor the amount of current being pulled
  3. If the pedal(s) tries to pull too much current, shut down to protect the power supply
  4. Wait for a set period, typically 1-2 seconds, then attempt to power on again
  5. Repeat as many times as necessary
Each time the power supply starts to come up the tube is able to start heating a little bit, so after enough cycles through it has enough heat that it doesn't need to pull as hard on the power supply and the power supply can power on fully. So the LED flashing is just the power supply attempting to start up then shutting itself off to protect itself before trying again.