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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by pilotjones, Dec 7, 2012.
This is an exiting project, Peter!!!! Enought to bring me back to work for a spell!!!
I'm glad you're excited, Larry! I'm very happy for you to semi-un-retire to work with me on this.
I've got all my templates ready -- and along with the build specs and material description I wrote up today, I'll be mailing them to you, hopefully tomorrow.
As a little background information, a few years back I did a little engineering work for someone. I was just doing a favor, but when it was done, that person graciously offered to buy me wood from Gallery Hardwoods (Larry's business) whenever I finally got around to building a bass.
I did the first bass with Home Depot wood, as practice, and in the meantime Larry retired. But for the second bass I'm very fortunate both that the person is still supporting their offer, and that Larry has agreed to work with me, with whatever stock he has.
plot, no doubt it'll be a stormin' bass.
I just ordered an Amana bowl bit.
Time to start the new expenses spreadsheet.
The first lesson I learned after my first project was: Do NOT keep track of expenses. Ignorance is bliss.
What's the bowl bit for? Roundover?
Well, the body outline will get a roundover. But this bit is convex, not concave, so I suppose it will produce...a roundunder?
Are you planning on doing a convex back on the bass, like a Spector? Because that bit would be perfect for shaping something like that.
True, it would be good for that. But that's not what I'm doing.
I think you can see where it'll be used in the pis posted - there will be a rounded blend between the raised fretboard and the ground of the body, that should bring out the dividing veneer.
Aha. So the router bit is without a ball bearing, then?
I now realize that I'm not entirely sure what a bowl bit is anymore.
No, I ordered this one with a top bearing, to follow a template.
Like a cove bit, but with the top bearing, and center cutting at the tip.
Dig it, Pete. Seems like those bowl bits would be ideal for making chambers.
That's a great idea. Compared to a straight bit, that gentle corner would be better structurally, with a gradual stress transition. It would also allow chambers to be maybe 1/8" closer to the outside wall, given the constraints due to external roundovers and contour cuts.
And, it would just be cool.
To start the celebration:
Awesome. Just as good as when I've had it on tap. Full, fruity but not too much so, just enough sweet and bitter.
I used this bit (same brand!) Worked out very well!
Cool! Looks nice. How much of that was freehand, and how much with templates?
I use bowl bit to finish off the control cavity. Looks really nice! Love the bowl bits!!
Cool. You must not have your pots too close to the wall then. I can imagine using it for the cavity, except it would be harder to do the copper foil shielding.
I picked up a few tools this weekend.
First up: this was a cheap set of Chinese pieces, and the vinyl pool float stench from the pouch attests to it. Currently half priced at Woodcraft. I don't expect them to be tempered properly for metal die work, but for wood they should be OK. These are fine cut files, rather than the coarse rasp-type ones I've seen before for wood. They might be useful in blending some contours, if I can get them to cut without clogging.
This is something I've been wanting for a while:
I definitely enjoyed doing the last neck (and some roundovers) with my giant rasp, and files. But I've seen enough glowing mentions of this to want to try it.
I might be making a new workbench. Can anyone give me any suggestions of favorite plans, or websites with plans? Thanks.