There's another storm brewing!

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by pilotjones, Dec 7, 2012.

  1. Big B.

    Big B.

    Dec 31, 2007
    Austin, TX
    Hey PJ. You may have been warned by your supplier but I thought I should add on just in case. We once used .Makore for an entire job at a shop I worked in. It's a beautiful wood but of all the wood I've worked it was by far the most painful on sinuses and respiratory systems. It burnt the nose painfully and had to be sanded outside or the entire room would gag and cough. Perhaps it had something to do with our batch but I thought I'd throw the warning out there.

    Great to see you start another. I will be interested to see where your experience leads you this time. :bassist:
  2. pilotjones


    Nov 8, 2001
    The back plate is planned as .250 finished. The makore is not too much thicker than that. I haven't taken measurements on the stuff yet.

    IIRC it was Geoff St. Germaine who made a bass with a calico top. Or maybe JP - was it that long ago? Actually I should hunt up the thread and resurrect it to ask how the color has held up after a few years.
  3. pilotjones


    Nov 8, 2001
    Much appreciated.
    Me too!
  4. sargebaker

    sargebaker Builder - Island Instruments Supporting Member Commercial User

    May 2, 2004
    Montreal QC CA
    owner/builder, ISLAND Instrument Mfg.
    I would wet the convex side and clamp the eff out of the board (flat, between two boards of plywood or whatever) for about a week and then remove, sticker and weight the board for a little while after. Process it how you need (rip and re-join at the check, thickness sand etc,) I don't know how bad the cup/twist is but laminating it to a huge chunk of wood (the body) should take care of any minor twists/cups,
  5. SaintMez

    SaintMez Commercial User

    Jan 3, 2010
    Meridian, idaho
    Blood Brothers Guitars - Luthier, Porter Guitars - Contractor
    Beautiful wood you have there! Looks like it will all compliment each other nicely. I'm digging the calico padauk as well.
  6. MiniChell


    May 15, 2012
    The quilted Bigleaf is stunning.

    Of course with your Padauk :)
  7. What a nice selection of wood you have there Pete! This, combined with your skills and inventiveness, should deliver a great bass! I especially like (or should I say _love_) that makore and walnut :smug:.

    How are you going to 'fix' the cupping of the makore? Wet clamping? Stickering the wood for a while? Or thickness plane the board to remove the cup?
  8. Pete, as it may have dawned on ya, I changed the aesthetic scheme into the earth tones range..warm and wholesome and available.

    We all are wired allergically different so specific reactions to anything are always in order.

    oh...spritz the makore concave side (center) lightly and it will flatten out..old trick. After ripping of course.
  9. pilotjones


    Nov 8, 2001
    Thanks, all.
    Larry, you're saying to rip the curved wood first, then wet it, then clamp it flat?
  10. BassIsBad


    Sep 10, 2012
    It probably won't sound good to make a bass out of construction paper
  11. Peter, best to do nothing for awhile. Let the wood acclimate and even out for a few weeks minimum. Best building environment is same as bass will be used and stored in. Adjusting lam thickness on the fly works. Walnut core thicker and makore back thinner than scheduled for instance.
  12. pilotjones


    Nov 8, 2001

  13. pilotjones


    Nov 8, 2001
    I've got it in the work area now, and I'll watch it to see what happens.

    It probably didn't help that the wood was in shipping trucks for several days in ridiculously low temps.

    Today I was at a museum, and got an interesting design idea that I haven't seen used before. Some testing will be in order.
  14. MrArose13

    MrArose13 Commercial User

    Aug 15, 2011
    Atlanta Georgia
    Owner/Luthier:RoseBud Basses & Guitars LLC

    What's up with the work bench? If your still looking, I like this one It can literally be made in a weekend and it gives room for up grads. trade out the MDF top for a lam top, add storage, a leg jack and a better vice. while serving its purpose in the meantime. Just thought I'd add to the pile. I've done that search and it doesn't really give you what your looking for, to me it's either too much, or not enough. I'd like to hear/see what you go with.

    I want to see this bass build too, .:p.
  15. pilotjones


    Nov 8, 2001
    Long time off doing other things, but I'm back.

    I've still got wood and design issues to be sorted out. But I'm dying to do something, and it is a certainty that the two long boards need to be resawn. They're not thick enough to get three boards out of each, so I'm splitting them down the center.

    (All pics are victims of fluorescent light. I reset the white points, but you can only do so much.)

    Here's the wonderful resaw setup

    The first board, marked

    I went very slowly with the padauk, as I've never resawn anything this wide before. It came out nicely.

    The goncalo alves got a little out of control at one point, but not too badly. Despite it being so dense, it cut more easily than the padauk.

    Here are the boards, showing the difference between the fresh cut surfaces (2 & 4) and the aged outer surfaces (1 & 3). Padauk on top.

    Finally, cut surfaces wetted with some alcohol to get a hint of the finished colors.
    The GA definitely has some flame.
  16. miziomix

    miziomix Über on my mind Commercial User

    Sep 28, 2009
    Milan, Kuala Lumpur, Paris.
    Bass builder @ MüB.
    He's back :)
  17. JamesGoodall


    Aug 29, 2011
    Nothing like wood porn to distract me from homework!
  18. T-34

    T-34 Wanna go headless? Supporting Member

    Goncalo is very nice wood from carvers perspective! Behaves under cutting tools very well in all the directions, a joy to work with!
  19. pilotjones


    Nov 8, 2001
    That's great to hear, since it will form the back of the neck.
  20. pilotjones


    Nov 8, 2001
    You may recall that the makore board that was destined for the back of the bass was cupped, and had split into two pieces, with a second split that had opened up to 2/3 of its length.

    Given a few months to rest and acclimate, it has not flattened itself out. Even if it were flat it would require ripping new square, straight edges and regluing. I'm not willing to monkey around with doing that process on a board that has been forced into temporary flatness by odd application of uneven moisture and clamping. I think I'd end up with some combination of either bad joints, and/or good joints but a double cupped / scalloped form. Not good.

    So, I figured I'll plane it down as flat as possible, and then see about the ripping and gluing.

    It had been questioned before whether my new planer (actually my bro's) was the 12-1/2" DeWalt or the 13". It turns out to be the 13". Here is its badass self.
    The bad thing about it is that it sucks enough power that with just it, a shopvac, and two lights running, I kept blowing my circuit. Like about 15 times. Oh, well.

    The board started at .360-.440" thick. There was about .030 of bow in each half board. It also has some kind of handling prick holes in an array on one side. So as I ran the halves repeatedly through the planer, I made sure to always do a first cut on the holes side, which is the convex side, followed by running it through again at the same height adjustment, with the concave/cup side (which will be the show side) up.

    I called it quits when I got full cutter contact on each face of both half boards. Final thickness: about .305. Final cupping: less than .004". Not flat, but hopefully not too bad.

    Here are the two halves after processing. Bad side up.

    You can see that the break is not straight. It also received some damage to the broken edge during shipping, so I won't be able to just glue it back together. Since I'll have to rip new straight gluing edges, I'm going to loose some width. This is problematic, since the board (in current form, with the halves tightly together) is only 1/2" wider than my body outline:

    Which means, as far as I can figure, that if everything goes completely perfectly I'll get a board that is the exact width of the body, and will only be saved -- assuming a dead straight glue-up -- by the roundovers. :eek:

    If anyone has advice on how best to deal with this, please chime in!

    Work done for the night. This calls for a Chimay Blue:
    Such a nice dubbel! Tastes fairly close to a tripel, actually - pretty light and fragrant, but still with a bit of richness.