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there's not enough toothpicks and woodglue in the world..

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Speedy Claxton, Feb 28, 2008.

  1. to keep my straplocks from ripping out of my bass.
    I'm thinking about resorting to putting a bigger screw in the strap holder but I just don't want that to rip out and then have an even bigger hole. Should I just use more wood glue and toothpicks or is there a better way that I don't know about?
  2. McHack


    Jul 29, 2003
    Central Ohio!
    Plug the hole w/ a dowel/glue, & re-drill it smaller.
  3. What he said! ^^

    Obviously, don't forget to drill for the dowel first, of course. ;)
  4. McHack


    Jul 29, 2003
    Central Ohio!
    And, don't forget to glue the dowel in place, too!!!
  5. Always have to get the last word, don't you!?! :smug:
  6. Plus Juan, & use a hardwood dowel. A larger screw alone likely won't work; straplocks(Dunlops, anyway)take a special screw that fits in the button(don't lose that screw, whatever you do).
  7. 51m0n


    Jun 30, 2005
    +1 And use a longer screw
  8. McHack


    Jul 29, 2003
    Central Ohio!
    Well, not always...

    That too! Hmm, I guess in this case.... mebbe I do, Eric! :hyper: LETS START A CLUB!
  9. I have a few pairs of screws from previous basses that I've owned with straplocks so losing them wont be an issue. If I fill the hole with a dowel though, won't that just rip out instead?
  10. 202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    The dowel does no better than "all the toothpicks in the world" crammed into the hole because it is essentially the same thing. A large dowel rod presents end grain to the screw. A screw will not hold in end grain long term if subjected to a lot of strain. So it becomes a crap shoot.

    The only sure way to do it is to fill the whole with a wood plug with the grain oriented in a similar fashion as the body. It would be best if the plug is made of the same species as the body. The plug is glued in place, usually with yellow or white woodworking glue. Then a pilot hole is bored to the proper diameter to allow solid purchase for the screw threads. The screw should then be lubed with beeswax (soap will work in a pinch) and installed in the hole. This will form new internal threads by compressing the surrounding wood. The screw is removed and the strap lock is installed. When reinserting the screw, reverse the direction (CCW) of the screw until it clicks or thumps into place. That is the spot where the beginning of the threads on the screw find the beginning of the threads in the hole. This will prevent crossthreading and ruining the work.
  11. Lon86


    Jan 21, 2008
    Venice, CA
    Just drill a new hole closet to the neck if it is the top horn, which it more than likely is.

    This will also give you a better tension angle.
  12. Hi.

    With problem bodies I've sometimes used a threaded insert and an allen-head bolt.

    Usually requires a lathe for trimming though...

    One feller had an aluminium drywall inserts and a normal Shaller wood screws. Looked a bit scary with that 5mm pitch thread, but that works too.

  13. it's actually the hole by the bridge, but thanks for all your help. I'll probably get around to doing this over the weekend as am usually swamped all week with school and work and whatnot.
  14. Turnaround

    Turnaround Commercial User

    May 6, 2004
    Toronto Canada
    Independent Instrument Technician, and Contractor to Club Bass and Guitar - Toronto
    For strap buttons, the screw is usually going into the end grain of the wood, so a dowel will have the same grain orientation as the body.

    When remounting a screw into the end grain, I like to run the screw in, then remove it. I then put a small bit of water-thin cyanoacrylate (superglue) into the hole and let it dry. This will toughen the wood fibers and help prevent stripping. Then I install the button.
  15. I use Schaller strap locks, so I'm not sure my opinion helps. Regardless, I always replace the stock screws with larger screws at least 2 inches in length. I always have to grind the head of the screw down to size to fit in the strap button, but it makes one hell of a secure anchor in the wood.
  16. bongomania

    bongomania Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Oct 17, 2005
    PDX, OR
    owner, OVNIFX and OVNILabs
    I just recently did exactly that, in order to extend the position of the upper strap peg closer to the 12th fret; I used a metal spacer and a larger screw, and ground down the edges of the screw head so that it would fit into the recessed part of the straplock.
  17. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    uh... what kind of strap locks are you using?

    Schaller's always pop out on me because they use a smaller screw than is standard for strap buttons.

    i'll repeat, because it seems i'm the only one who acknowledges this fact.

    Schaller Strap Locks use a smaller screw than is standard for strap buttons. that's why they always come out

    i use Dunlop, because it uses the same size screw as the standard strap buttons.
  18. LOL! :D
  19. I actually have one of each right now lol because I was dunlop locks but the back screw bent and at the time I didn't have a screw to fit so I just filled the hole with toothpicks and wood glue and used a dunlop on the back. But yes, I knew that the screws are different sizes, I just filled the hole more to accomodate the schaller screw.
  20. and if you REALLY like the straplocks and have no intention of ever taking them off or selling the bass,

    Just a Dab of Gorilla Glue does the trick, perfectly.

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