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throught the body or top load?

Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by JoseNeville, Jan 14, 2002.

  1. Hi!

    I want to lower the action. I think that I will try lighter gauges, but I want to know which have less tension through the body or top load stringing?

    Also my bass G&L 2500 has La Bella Super Steps
    .050 .070 .085 .110 .128

    I want to replace for a set that have the less tension

    This are my choices:
    1) La Bella Super Steps
    .040 .060 .075 .095 .118

    2) Thomastik-Infeld Electric Bass Magnecore
    Round Wound Hexcore 5 String Medium
    Light, .047 - .119

    3) Thomastik-Infeld Electric Bass Nickel Round
    Wound Roundcore 5 String Medium, .043 - .118

    Thanks for your advice
  2. Which of those strings have less tension?
    And in which way the bass get less tension through the body or top load?

    Thanks to everyone
  3. rsautrey

    rsautrey Banned

    Jul 27, 2000
    Your post is a little confusing. You want to lower the action AND switch to a lighter gauge? Did you try lowering the action with the strings you have? Also, Labella Super Steps will not work string through due to the taper at the bridge. As far as string through vs. top load stringing, they both have the same tension. The points of contact from the bridge to the nut is still the same. I'd really try lowering the action with the strings you have, which can change the way the strings feel. Sometimes a higher action makes strings feel stiffer. Good luck!
  4. Thanks for the explanation:

    "string through vs. top load stringing, they both have the same tension"

    I lowering the action with the strings that I have.

    I can't lower the action more. I think, if I use strings with the less tension then the neck will be more straight. I think that lighter gauges will have less tension. This is correct?

  5. My setup has a 12 fret string height is 5/32 on G and B.

    I found this


    Did you think this sould help me on my G&L 2500?

  6. Turock

    Turock Supporting Member

    Apr 30, 2000
    Have you tried adjusting the truss rod?
  7. Brooks


    Apr 4, 2000
    Middle East
    I don't think this will help. You need to change the angle of the entire neck relative to the body (and therefore the bridge) of the bass, and than can only be done using a shim, or reshaping the heel of the neck. Shim is preferable because it does not alter the neck.
  8. yes I adjust the truss rod as much as posible.

    Brooks I think that I get your idea.

    this is the neck of my bass



    Thanks to everyone
  9. From all the Setup stuff i have read after adjusting the truss rod you need to let the neck rest so it "unbends", Also You shouldn't adjust the truss rod too much at a time and the strings need to be loose when U do it well not loose but not tuned especialy if you loosening the rod. When I first got My MIM Jazz the neck had never been touched and the action was very high. A friend who worked at GC at the time lossened the truss rod gave it a couple of taps with the heel of his hand and said I'll be back tommorrow to do it again if it needs it just leave it alone.
    WHat Brook means about shims is putting shims under the neck where it meets the body to drop the angle back more and therefore lowering the action, pretty radical step reletivly in my opinion.
  10. Mike what did you say is?

    1. lossen the truss rod give a couple of taps with the heel of my hand
    2. leave lossen one day and then adjust a little bit?


    I appreciated any ideas , I just want to lower the action of this bass.
  11. This is what I am refering to , From Gearhead at


    Check your tuning. Install a capo at the 1st fret, depress the 4th string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret -- see the specification chart below for the proper gap. Caution: Because of the amount of string tension placed on the neck (some basses also feature graphite reinforced necks, adding to the resistance present while the bass is tuned to pitch), it is advisable to loosen the strings prior to making any actual adjustment. After the adjustment is made retune the strings to pitch and recheck the gap with the feeler gauge.

    Adjustment At Headstock (Allen wrench): If neck is too concave, (with the guitar in playing position, looking up the neck towards the keys) turn Truss-Rod nut counter clock-wise. Too convex-- clockwise.

    Adjustment At Neck Joint (Phillips screwdriver or Allen wrench): If neck is too concave, turn Truss-Rod nut clock-wise. Too convex--Counter clockwise. Check your tuning, then check the gap with the feeler gauge. Note: In either case, if you meet excessive resistance or need for adjustment, or you're not comfortable with this adjustment, take your bass to your authorized Fender Service Center.

    Neck Radius
    9.5" to 12"
    15" to 17" Relief

    Back to Top


    Players with a light touch can get away with lower action, others need higher action to avoid rattles. Check tuning. Using the 6" ruler, measure distance between bottom of strings and top of the 17th fret. Adjust bridge saddles to the height according to the chart, then re-tune. Experiment with the height until the desired sound and feel is achieved.

    Neck Radius String Height
    Bass Side Treble Side
    9.5" to 12"
    15" to 17" 7/64"
    6/64" 6/64"

    Shimming/Micro-Tilt Adjustment

    Shimming is a procedure used to adjust the pitch of the neck in relation to the body. A shim is placed in the neck pocket, underneath the butt-end of the neck. On a few basses, a Micro-TiltĀ® adjustment is offered. It replaces the need for a shim by using a hex screw against a plate installed in the butt-end of the neck. The need to adjust the pitch (raising the butt-end of the neck in the pocket, thereby pitching the neck back) of the neck occurs in situations where the string height is high and the action adjustment is as low as the adjustment will allow.

    To properly shim a neck, the neck needs to be removed from the neck pocket of the body. A shim approximately 1/4" wide x 1 3/4" long x .010" thick will raise the action approximately 1/32". For those basses with the Micro-Tilt adjustment, loosen the two neck screws on both sides of the adjustment access hole on the neckplate by at least 4 full turns. Tighten the hex screw with an 1/8" hex wrench approximately 1/4 turn to raise the action approximately 1/32". Retighten the neck screws when the adjustment is complete. The pitch of the neck on your bass has been preset at the factory and in most cases will not need to be adjusted. Note: If you feel you need this adjustment to be made and you're not comfortable with the procedure, take your bass to your authorized Fender Service Center.

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