I searched around. Maybe not hard enough, but I didnt see much on this. I was wondering how to go about this. Maybe you could point me to a book that would be good for specifically this. I would really like to finish a P in transparent white with the grain showing like this [/URL][/IMG] White! With no yellow tint. Most of my google efforts showed blonde/yellow stuff. Which is not really what I'm after. I have minimal woodworking experience. But I'm pretty good with my hands. This is the body [/URL][/IMG] Which of the processes in the title will give me the results I'm looking for? Does anybody have any examples of something they've done themselves? Thanks for any help you may offer
The method involves using a contrasting darker colour to grain fill which enhances the grain. Then a transluscent white is sprayed over top. It can just be white semi-opaque stain that is sanded back before clearcoating. You can't really duplicate that effect with your body. Your body has a tight fine grain structure, whereas the one in the photo is more open grained and looser, allowing the grain lines to show better through the transluscent finish. Finely grained woods just don't pop the same way...
Short answer? Use a body made from a lighter wood. Ash would e your best bet, as the white Tele you have pictured above appears to be made from ash. The color pictured on that Tele appears to be Mary Kaye White, which you can purchase from ReRanch: http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/marykayewhite.html I don't think that you're likely to lighten up the body you pictured enough to pull this off without at least SOME hint of the original wood color. Just my $0.05 (2ยข adjusted for inflation).
hhmmm... Do you think the tighter grain will get lost in the white? If its not dark enough... I'll look into white stains, in the mean time. I was going to do white paint. Just looking at my other white options. Crap I dont want to buy another body. haha I know my woodgrain isnt the same. Was just seeing if I could get close. I guess with the tight grain, it will just look white anyway?
Don't think that "white stain" will do what you are looking for... I mean, there's "whitewash" or "pickling stain", and Minwax makes something called "winter white", but I'm not sure that it will look like much because that body looks like pine or alder, and the grain contrast just isn't there. What you're looking for is an ash body... it would look like this without a finish on it: See those really *large* grain lines? Those are what would show through the semi-transparent white finish you're talking about. Even they would fade considerably under even a Mary Kaye White finish, but because they are so distinct, you'd at least see them, partially obscured. The grain on your instrument is just too fine. It wouldn't look like anything but a milky-white paint job.
Thats what I was afraid of. Ok, thanks for saving me some time and money Looks like I'll just go with a flat white on this one then. Which brings me to another question Is there a flat clear worth a crap? Or should I just spray light clear on a flat white and give it a light sand? I'll most likely be doing rattle can. As I dont have many resourses/tools for a nice paint. My flat black came out pretty nice. I dont think I did any clear on it. But white will get pretty dirty pretty fast.
Here is a picture of someone who refinished an alder body Telecaster in transparent Mary Kaye White: He stated that you could only see the grain lines under very strong direct light, and even then they were faint. It looks almost like "Olympic White" to me, in the picture...
I could live with that. I will have all black hardware, so that would look pretty good. Alot of people were bashing on reranch in that forum. I dont know why. But $16 is a pretty good deal. I saw people sealing before paint? Is that something I would want to do? In case it looks like crap and want to start over. I really do appreciate your help.
You would probably want to do sanding sealer prior to putting down your base color coat. Sanding sealer is essentially just lacquer with a really heavy doping of solids, so that it will seal the pores in wood. Makes it sand out faster, and finish smoother. You use sanding sealer for 2 or 3 good wet coats to fill the pores, and then you sand it smooth. From there, you apply your color coat(s), and then your clear coats. There's a good walk-through of a finish schedule here: http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Finishing/Colors,_stains/a-blueguitar.html I have always liked the ReRanch products. It's just McFadden's nitro lacquer in a can, with color tint.
Awesome! Thanks I guess I'll post some pics when I get to work. So we can see how good or bad it turns out. haha