Transporting Cabs

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by DCman, Jan 2, 2003.

  1. DCman


    Apr 7, 2002
    Hi Guys...

    Just a quick question. I have to transport my 4x10 200 miles next week. How safe is it to transport it in a trailer? When I say trailer, i mean a very small open topped box thing with small wheels that attaches to the back of a car - not a huge big american mobile home thingumy....

    The cab is flightcased and stuff, but i'm thinking more about vibrations...


    DC :D
  2. Fuzzbass

    Fuzzbass P5 with overdrive Supporting Member

    Well, you definitely want to place the cabinet so that the speakers are facing up or down (preferably down), so that when the trailer bounces the speakers will travel in the same line that they are designed to move (hope that makes sense).
  3. Razor


    Sep 22, 2002
    That's an excellent point Fuzz........16 years of playing and I never thought of that. Thx for the tip.
  4. I would definitely vote for face (speakers) down. The weight of the speakers pulling down on the faceplate over bumps could cause damage to the faceplate wood, or the mounting screws.
  5. Nick man

    Nick man

    Apr 7, 2002
    Tampa Bay
    Actually, the Eden manual specifically warns against that. Its like speaker over-excursion whenyou go over a big bump, and you run the risk of tearing the surround. They tell you to stack them upright so that the most stress on the actual moving components of the speaker are the less powerful forces from turns.

  6. Nick man

    Nick man

    Apr 7, 2002
    Tampa Bay
    Like that you run the risk of having the speakers pull down out of the wood. I wouldnt recommend doing that. At least when its upright its not going to be puling straight on the screws.


    It cost me a fortune to repair the damage from one bump. Not to mention, ii affected my future with the bandleader (he was adamant about reliable musicians and their gear).

    All advice was given to me after the damage was done. face the speakers' surface area perpendicular to th the ground.
  8. NJL


    Apr 12, 2002
    San Antonio
    what about some sort of cusion under the cab when you have to place them in your trunk? do you think that would help?
  9. I've been transporting speakers in the back of trailors and pickup trucks for the past 30 years. The only damage I've seen is when they've gotten dropped out the back or the trailor came loose from the car and ran into a creek. If you take precautions in keeping it dry, I don't think you have anything to worry about.
  10. Because of size and weight (and laziness) mine live in the back of my truck constantly. They have survived 18 months without a problem.

    Mine have the cones perpendicular to the road way. Or, each driver faces front, as it would do in normal playing position.

    Cones are actually pretty heavy, so my level of comfort is keeping the cones in the playing position. The surround and spider are designed to keep the cone centered.
  11. its the bounce of the cones in their baskets that damage the formers (a component of the voicecoil ass'y). This is less of a problem in sealed cabs because the acoustic suspension keeps the coils fairly protected, but in ported/vented cabs...
  12. It's a speaker FOR CRYING OUT LOUD. Do you really think that road vibration is anything near what playing a gig is going to put the cone, spider, voice coil, basket, cabinet through? I saw my old Sunn 200S cab go sliding down the steps of the Moose club a few years ago. It d@mn near took out a post when it came to a stop It still plays fine.

  13. Yes:

    This needlessly cost me $150
  14. Forgot about this one....Just last week I recieved a Eminence Kappa 15. It came in a box that when laid flat made the speaker point up. It was delivered via truck. It came 3000 mi from CA. It works just fine although while I was handling it I accidentally magnatized my Omega Seamaster. :mad:
  15. Fuzzbass

    Fuzzbass P5 with overdrive Supporting Member

    Thanks for the correction.

    FWIW, I've usually had little or no choice in how my cabs fit into my vehicle, and have had no problems transporting speakers regardless of which way they were pointed. But trailers can be especially bumpy, so I recommend taking all possible precautions.
  16. jokerjkny


    Jan 19, 2002
    NY / NJ / PA

    you learn something new (then have to discard it) everyday on this forum...

  17. Bob Lee (QSC)

    Bob Lee (QSC) In case you missed it, I work for QSC Audio! Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jul 3, 2001
    Costa Mesa, Calif.
    Technical Communications Developer, QSC Audio
    To guard against overexcursion, you can damp the motion of the speaker cone(s) by shorting them, or at least shorting the input jack. Make sure you remove the short circuit before using the speaker again.

    A similar concept: back in the days of ammeters with D'Arsonval movements (the kind with a moving needle), you would short the meter terminals with a wire whenever you were carrying them around. Without the short, the needle could be damaged by slamming against one of the pegs if the meter were bumped or dropped. But the short prevented that by using the current generated by the needle's movement to provide an opposing, braking force.
  18. But what happen's if there's an earthquake and my cab is on it's feet?

    The cab has feet, it is meant to ride on them. Trailer or not. My pro sound and bass gear always rides upright. I had an 18 go out in a sub because I had it so loud the magnet shifted onto the coil and ruined the basket (JBL-junk but not loud) the thing was, was that the cab hadn't moved in four years so it wasn't the road that did it.

    It really won't hurt the speakers, trust me.
  19. DCman


    Apr 7, 2002
    lol - yeah, i'll keep that in mind!

    Bob - i'm guessing its just a straight short that you create with the jack buy joining the +/- wires together, and nothing else?

    Thanks for the input, guys.... :D

    DC :)
  20. Bob Lee (QSC)

    Bob Lee (QSC) In case you missed it, I work for QSC Audio! Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jul 3, 2001
    Costa Mesa, Calif.
    Technical Communications Developer, QSC Audio
    Yup. If your cabinet has 1/4" jacks, you can take a 1/4" plug and discard the shell. Bend the center terminal down. Cut off the excess of the long terminal/strain relief, bend it over onto the center terminal so they're both as flat as they'll go, then solder them together securely. Now you've got a good shorting plug that doesn't stick out too far from the jack. If the jack isn't recessed, you might have to cover the plug with something, like maybe gaffer's tape.

    If you've got Speakon or another type of connector, you'll have to improvise. ;)