After about 20 instrument mods/refinishes I have become fairly comfortable with Tru oil. I’m inherently impatient when finishing a bass and want to get to playing it ASAP. Still I don’t want it to look like poopie. So 8-15 coats of Tru oil over natural wood has become my go to for, easy, fast, decent looking finishes. I’m working on something now that wants to be black. So I’m telling myself to spray a couple of coats of rattle can acrylic black paint, and then apply the Tru oil. Is this guaranteed to fail? Or likely to work beautifully?
Is there any advantage to using a tru oil finish as the final? Why not just use a compatible (same brand and family) acrylic clear?
Because I’ve never done it before. Spraying is a hassle for me, that’s one of the cool things about oil finishing, hand application. As I imagine it, brush application would be very difficult to make look good, IDK. My original question was born out of my desire to stay in my comfort zone. I like the idea of doing a test. If it fails, I’ll push myself out of my comfort zone.
I've successfully tinted 25ml of tru oil jet black with Mixol. It went on black, but built slowly. Next time I do jet black, I'm spraying it.
I don't think that's such a good idea. And there may be other options. For one question...What kind of wood? Some species can be turned fairly black (ebonized) Here's how, In case you're not familiar : Ebonizing Wood Or... you could dye it black with something like TransTint. (But the oil will lift that pigment if you wipe too much and you'll see the grain). Point is... Both of these will allow the wood to stay porous and the TruOil to penetrate, like its supposed to, and build from there. Also, the coats will cure way more evenly than what you would get wiping oil atop acrylic. Not that I've done it that way.... just my opinion
Example of ebonized walnut coated with clear epoxy resin: And The pickup ring and control cover ring here are both ebonized walnut coated with tru-oil: You can even ebonize low-tannin woods by wiping with tannin (from a really strong cup of tea) before applying the iron acetate.
I did my test with Rustoleum matte black. The can did not specify what type of paint, acrylic or what, but it's what I had and like using. The first coat of oil brought up some black, less on the second coat, by the third coat of oil there was no black on the rag. The fourth coat has been drying for over 24 hours and from a chemistry standpoint, I think it works. It seems totally stable and feels good to the touch, just like Tru Oil should feel. I'm just not sure that it will look good, or at least how I want it to look. If I decide to go black with this project, I will try the tint for Tru Oil mentioned above. I may just keep it natural.
Lot's of black aniline die followed by tru-oil on swamp ash. If you can accept a less than jet black finish this would be easy and a safe bet.
Thanks. There must be 25-30 coats on there with some 0000 steel wool every few coats. It's a lot of coats but a coat is so easy to do it's still a low effort finish. It may not be as tough as a thick poly finish but it held up well to my non abusive playing style.
Since you picked up some black... (I assume the paint was fully cured) ...then maybe the oil "melted in" a bit... and might actually stick. But... damn... That whole concept has me thinking about blisters or any dings peeling like a sunburn....down the road. Just saying...
I agree. I hate to be a naysayer but the whole concept of putting oil on top of another finish seems very roundabout to me when you can probably get the result you want without mixing things up. Even if it "works" it just seems... unconventional, I guess? If you want to use spray acrylic, just put a clear spray acrylic top coat on. If you want to use oil, stain the wood first and/or tint the oil. Or if you want something easy and foolproof, wipe on tinted poly and then topcoat with wiped on clear poly. The technique is similar to wiping on oil but it'll take fewer coats and it's more durable.
Wipe on poly can look super nice in an understated way kind of like oil finishes.. nice and as easy as can be too