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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by bkim, Dec 15, 2006.
Would that work?
Tru oil is made to rub in. Wouldn't it smear? Doesn't seem like the best way to me. YOu could always test it on a 2x4.
Thats what I was thinking too, but I think I've heard some people call it a hard finish. Some have also commented on 15+ coats--at some point it has to stop soaking in and build up on top of the other cured coats.
I've read a bunch of threads about this and everyone says put the decal on after and spray a couple layers of a clear coat over it.
It's a varnish, but it's typically applied by rubbing, not spraying, so you need something that sprays onto the decal to keep it from smearing. You can build up coats with Tru oil all you want, but it's ten bucks for a little bottle, so there are a dozen more economical solutions that will give you the desired result. You can spray clear over to build the layers and just put one or two coats of Tru oil on top. The finish is just as durable and you avoid unnecessary complications.
I,m pretty sure you can get TruOil in a spray can.
Yes it comes in a spray can. I used it on a cabinet I built a few years ago. The instructions still say to rub it into the grain after you spray it on; it's not spray paint. It's also, like the Tru oil in the bottle, very expensive, so again, why waste the product when there are cheaper alternatives that are actually better suited for putting over decals?
Agreed. But you apply the decal after all the rubbing is done and the finish is level. After thet you can spray on coats to level over the decal.
sorry for reviving such an old thread, but where it says to spray clear coat over the tru-oil and decal, what type of product do you mean?
where does one even get TruOil? like just any hardware store?
Apply the tru oil to the headstock first. About 3 to 4 coats. More than that is not necessary. Don't let it dry. Wipe on and wipe off. Let dry (cure) for about 2 hours hours between coats and steel wool and clean with paint thinner between coats. Apply your decal and put one coat of tru oil over the decal using a sponge brush. Don't rub it in or wipe it off. Let cure for at least 24 hours. Repeat for one or two more coats. Then apply clear coat of your choice. I like oil bases poly (minwax) using a sponge type brush. Heat the poly in water before you do. this will reduce air bubbles. You can thin the poly with paint thinner as well. I usually cut it about 10%
You'll have to apply 4 to 6 coats of poly. these are thin coats. Wet sand using 1000 grit sand papper between coats to level it and to remove any air bubbles you may have. I use warm water with liquid soap. Don't sand hard, just apply light pressure. Make sure you let poly cure for 48 hours between coats. Be patient.
Your final coat will go on like glass and leave a level finish that you don't have to polish. Your decal will look like it is floating in the finish. (like a bug in glass)
You can see what I'm talking about here:
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k499/syco_bass/5 string Warmoth Neck/GEDC0424.jpg
Good luck. Feel free to PM me if you need assistance.