Tru-Oil Quesn. ... Final Gloss Coat to Satin Finish?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by dregsfan, Oct 21, 2017.


  1. dregsfan

    dregsfan *Spay And Neuter* Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2006
    I've been using 0000 steel wool in between coats of Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil.

    For the final "de-gloss" step, is there a different/better method other than (or in addition to) the steel wool to get a nice looking Satin finish?

    I had considered using BC's Stock Sheen & Conditioner, but I was cautioned about using a product with silicone in it. (Thanks Beej)

    Thanks for any input!
     
  2. Bruce Johnson

    Bruce Johnson Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 4, 2011
    Fillmore, CA
    Professional Luthier
    I've tried other methods of making a satin sheen, and good 'ol steel wool still gives me the best results. Yeah, it's a little messy, but it makes an even sheen down into any grain troughs that aren't fully filled. The fine (light grey) Scotchbrite also works pretty well with no mess, but the #0000 steel wool is better.
     
  3. dregsfan

    dregsfan *Spay And Neuter* Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2006
    Thanks Bruce.
    I don't mind using the steel wool since the parts are not assembled (no magnets). I use paper towel under the piece and then blow it off outside with a air compressor.


    You hear about some folks using a wax or something afterwards. Anyone know anything about that. (Though it won't bother me to not need another step.)
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2017
  4. On my necks I've been doing Tru Oil, then knock the shine down with 0000 steel wool, then add two coats of paste wax and polish it up. The finish is somewhere between matte and gloss, but man does it feel great. I haven't done a whole body like this yet, I usually just use Tru Oil and don't knock down the shine on the body.
     
    DiabolusInMusic likes this.
  5. dregsfan

    dregsfan *Spay And Neuter* Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2006
    Very cool Jisch.
    Is there a specific paste wax that you use?
    I'm ignorant about paste wax.


    Many Thanks.
     
  6. I bought Howard Citrus Shield Premium Past wax - I have no idea if this stuff is the best, the worst or in between, but it seems to work well, it was what I found at Home Depot (I think that's where I got it).
     
  7. DiabolusInMusic

    DiabolusInMusic Functionless Art is Merely Tolerated Vandalism

    I will just echo what is above. I use 0000 steel wool after the final coat and then follow it up with a coat or two of wax. I use Zymol but, really, anything with carnuba and beeswax will get you where you want. I find the neck is a little sticky without the wax.
     
  8. hs123

    hs123

    Aug 11, 2011
    Westminster CO
    I fnished mine with 3m Finesse It II and 3m Hand glaze....Automobile stuff...
     
  9. dregsfan

    dregsfan *Spay And Neuter* Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2006
    So a wax doesn't shine it up, I take it?
    Thanks for input.
     
  10. The finish on the back of my necks is definitely more on the "matte" than "gloss" side, the wax doesn't make it look glossy.
     
  11. dregsfan

    dregsfan *Spay And Neuter* Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2006
    Cool. Thanks.
     
  12. T_Bone_TL

    T_Bone_TL

    Jan 10, 2013
    SW VT
    My wax preference is butcher's bowling alley wax - carnauba (and turps to make it apply reasonably, which evaporates) but no abrasives (as some floor waxes have.) I use the clear, not being fond of added ambering (personal taste.)

    You can always steel-wool or scotchbrite the wax after it hardens (once the solvent leaves) if you want a more-matte finish.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2017
  13. dregsfan

    dregsfan *Spay And Neuter* Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2006
    Thanks T Bone TL.

    Cool avatar.
     
  14. Thumpin6string

    Thumpin6string Supporting Member

    Apr 25, 2013
    Shoals Indiana
    A gray (ultra fine) Scotchbrite pad works great. I find it works better than steel wool. On most clear finishes, you can use 1000 or 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper too. Not sure if Truoil will clog the paper, but can't hurt to try it. Also, I wouldn't put wax on it if you want a satin finish. I don't put anything on mine.
     
  15. dregsfan

    dregsfan *Spay And Neuter* Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2006
    I'm gonna have to try a Scotchbrite pad.
    Thanks.
     
  16. DiabolusInMusic

    DiabolusInMusic Functionless Art is Merely Tolerated Vandalism

    The grey 3m pads are equivalent to 00 steel wool, about 400 grit sand paper. That is what B&C recommend to take back the finish for another coat. I use the 3M when I am adding another coat but my final step is 0000 steel wool. Either one will get you where you want, just the 3m will get you there faster. (Tru-oil will clog the paper but not enough to worry about.) In my experience, adding wax will not add a gloss coat to your neck but it will remove the little bit of tack that is left. Look at oiled Stingrays, they do not have a gloss coat. My hands can really notice the difference between just oil and oil and wax so I feel it is necessary. As they say though, to each their own.
     

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  17. hs123

    hs123

    Aug 11, 2011
    Westminster CO
    Not any shinier than the oil, it just kinda 'hardens' the surface. I got the idea from a 'boutique' luthier.
     
  18. dregsfan

    dregsfan *Spay And Neuter* Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2006
    You guys are great. THANKS
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2017
  19. hs123

    hs123

    Aug 11, 2011
    Westminster CO
    The bass on the right of my avatar is the Tru-Oil/Car Polish instrument.
     
  20. To me the wax is about the feel not the finish. It makes the neck feel super smooth and silky.
     
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