Psst... Ready to join TalkBass and start posting, make new friends, sell your gear, and more?  Register your free account in 30 seconds.

truss rod routing.......uh......issues

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Milothicus, Jun 4, 2002.


  1. I started making sawdust today B+)

    i set my router's guide to make the channel for the truss rod. it took two passes, and after the first pass, the channel looked um......not straight. i have no idea how it did it....but it did. i ran the second pass and it looked better, but the one side is still a little..........wonky.

    what i was going for was (for a stewmac hot rod truss rod) a 7/32" wide channel. i ended up with something that's more like 1/4" in places and at one end is closer to 9/32".

    is my wood toast? can i use the stewmac recommended bathtub sealer to centre it within the channel?

    what would happen if it is at a slight angle? i'm talking a degree or less........

    it's my first, and i'm willing to go buy a new piece of wood and i'll probably finish this one anyway for the practice, so if it's a useless piece it's not the end of the world.....

    any help is appreciated.
     
  2. dhuffguitars

    dhuffguitars Luthier/Bass Wanker depending on your opinion

    Sep 18, 2001
    SPOKANE WA
    You could always rout the channel bigger and laminate a wood filler strip to fill in the difference in the expanded channel.

    D
     
  3. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Maryland
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    Are you routing right-to-left?

    If you are routing a channel, and you move left to right, the rotation of the bit will cause it to want to wander. This, of course, assuming that the edge guide is running against the far side of the neck blank.

    Other things to look for are surface imperfections or snags in the power cord of the router. Anything that would cause the router to be pulled off course.

    I route my channels slightly oversize and fill in the space to keep the rod from rattling, so I would think you'll be okay.
     
  4. i really appreciate your help. i widened the channel a bit. i should be ok now if i add the veneer strips.

    i've cut out the headstock and shaped it with rasps and now i'm on to cutting out the rest of the neck.

    i should probably order my truss rod now B+)

    i guarantee i'll have more questions in the next couple of days....

    thanks for the advice.
     
  5. HannibalSpector

    HannibalSpector

    Mar 27, 2002
    Australia
    I find that for acurate routing, using flanged collar over the routerbit as a guide is most effective and less prone to hic-ups and jumps.
    I also find it easier to make jigs for this method of routing.

    cheers
     
  6. gyancey

    gyancey

    Mar 25, 2002
    Austin, TX
    Two passes is a bit much for that depth - you're hitting 7/32" per pass, a little over the 1/8" people usually recommend. If you were infact routing the wrong direction (a good explaination for your problem) this would only exacerbate the tendancy of the router to pull away from your blank. I would take away less with each pass. It makes routing easier, and its better for your router motor and bearings too.
     
  7. i'll keep that in mind for the next one. i had never actually used a router.....or many other power tools before starting this project. i'm learning as i go. i moved slowly as i was taking off wood. it was loud as hell but the bit kept spinning so i figured it wasn't doing any damage to the router.

    unfortunately, i'm now in alberta, and my project bass is sitting in ontario until i get back at the end of august. arg.... two days before i left, i got my shipment from stewmac making me even more eager to keep moving on the neck......this isn't good.