Santa is bringing me a new Fender American Deluxe Jazz bass. I can't freaking wait; it's a huge upgrade for me, and I'm super excited about trying out new strings and continuing to hone my technique and music theory. Strings are a big question, though. My current guitar is a 1990s-era Charvel, and I like to play Dean Markley Blue Steel strings on it. I've been thinking of trying mellower strings -- maybe Rotosound 66es in nickel. I've read that these are a popular choice for the American Deluxe Jazz, but I think that this body requires tapered end strings because of the back-load bridge. Is that true, or is it possible to set up the bridge for un-tapered strings? How easy is that to do? Thanks for your help!
I have used both successfully. I do like Dean Markley Helix strings on my basses, which are tapered on E and A strings (and the B if using 5-string set). They worked great on a string-thru Precision. I also use DR Hi Beams which are not tapered and they sounded fine. Just make sure you set the witness points when using non-tapered strings.
Yeah they don't require tapered strings, they come from the factory with NON tapered strings in fact.
Are you sure? I believe the bass will come with Fender 8250M strings, which are certainly tapered. Check page 24 of the manual; the E string shown there is tapered. The bridge saddle appears to have a groove too narrow to carry a wound string rather than just a core. Thanks! Any advice for doing that properly?
All photos at Sweetwater and MF show a non-tapered string: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/JBassADMNT Not that it really matters either way though, it will work with either. It would be asinine for them to require a tapered string. This is Fender we're talking about though
Before I tighten the string to pitch and while it is on tuner and set properly on the bridge saddle I gently put some pressure with my finger on the strings in front of the saddle and again just after the nut. I do the witness point at nut when the string is a bit tighter but not at pitch and not slack.
Oh! I do this anyway. If I don't, I end up re-tuning daily in the first week or so while the strings break in. Stretching the corners like this seems to help the strings tension more stably. My worry is that the E string's center will be higher if the wrap is on the bridge saddle (compared to the core being on the saddle), and I'll have to reset the string height accordingly. I guess this is an adjustment I should expect to make, though, if I'm changing strings anyhow ... Thanks for your helpful posts!
Glad I was helpful. Those adjustment are pretty straight forward and the more you learn about setups just makes it easier to make a bass a real player
Make sure the bass is properly set up with the brand and gauge of strings you prefer going in, because you can't re-set a witness point if the intonation needs to be adjusted. I have used several different brands and gauges of strings on my string-through-body custom half-fanned P/J. They all work fine. The only company I know of that cautions about string-through is La Bella, and then only on their flatwounds, which they make a top-load version an a string-through version.
I have non-tapered flats, strung-through, on my Am Dlx P, and don't see any problems. Maybe, its because I wouldn't know any better if there was. One caution, if you string top-load, the ferules may fall out. I found they were not secured when I removed the original strings to go with flats. Kept rounds on the Am Dlx J. Spectacular instruments in my opinion. Mine are both natural ash, with maple necks. I expect that you are really going to like yours.
The first P-basses were through body strung as were Telecaster basses of the 60s/70s. Tapered strings didn't even come along until the 1980s. Don't sweat it.
Woohoo! It's here. What a wonderful instrument. To my surprise, the strings don't appear to be tapered. Either I don't know what tapered strings are, or the instrument doesn't have the Fender 8520M strings that I expected it to. Whatever they are, after they wear out I'm glad I can experiment freely with tapered- and non-tapered strings alike. Not much time to play because of family obligations, but maybe I'll have some quality time after work today ... Thanks for your help, ya'lls!
Yep, that's what I have. According to the Fender website, they're shipping Fender 7250M strings, not 8250s. (I feel positive the site said 8250 last time I looked.) The 7250s are not tapered, the 8250s are!
If a ferrule falls out, wrap it with one wrap of old-fashioned masking tape and pressure fit it back in. It should stay.