what can I use to control cabs separately?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Zapp, Nov 2, 2005.

  1. Zapp


    Sep 4, 2005
    Gruene Texas
    using a yorkie head with a gk 210 and an avatar 15, i need to separate the control over each cabinet. it would seem that a simple 'brake' volume knob going to each would do the job but I am pretty ignorant of signal characteristics and how this could affect the amp, if at all.

    can someone suggest a device that would let me do this? its obvious that the thing would have to be between the line out and the cab.... i dunno what the specs are of that signal, but i usually run the little 400 close to Wide Open.

  2. MODNY

    MODNY Guest

    Nov 9, 2004
    a nice crest ca9?
  3. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    The only way you can do this is with a separate power amplifier to drive one of the cabs. Resistive LPads just don't have the kind of power handling necessary for this application, you'd burn them out in a matter of seconds.
  4. theshadow2001


    Jun 17, 2004
    Might I ask why you want to this and I agree that it would seem the only way to do this is with separate power amps
  5. ...or a stereo poweramp. I'm curious too, this seems like a bit of an odd request :confused:
  6. bigbeefdog

    bigbeefdog Who let the dogs in?

    Jul 7, 2003
    Mandeville, LA
    I'm going to guess that his two cabs (from different manufacturers) are of vastly differing sensitivity. One is probably hard to hear, compared to the other, when he's running them in parallel. Hence, he's thought of attenuating the loud one with a resistor, to (relatively) bring up the other, and "balance" the sound.

    In theory, it actually could be done. But:

    - you'd be wasting power (using a power resistor to convert your watts to heat), and
    - variable power resistors of this sort (they are made, for industrial applications) are large, and they aren't cheap.

    So, I concur. Better to spend your money on a separate power amp. Would give you full control, more headroom, and might actually be cheaper.
  7. atoni


    Jan 23, 2004
    Helsinki, Finland
    Endorsing Artist: Salo Guitars
    If you can get your hands on Seymour Duncan Biamp 8000 bass amplifier, that would do the trick.
  8. Not true, they'd burn out so fast you'd be burning them out by the dozens, not seconds or thirds.. :D

  9. Zapp


    Sep 4, 2005
    Gruene Texas
    B-Beef has it right. relatively small hall: the 210's alone would carry the day except that the passing notes [which I use a good number of] are not fat enough to be heard 25 feet away, even running full tilt. I had tried a larger 210 cab that was ported and used alum drivers and it was a bit washy... the fundamentals, especially at resonant freq's sort of overran the articulation I was aiming for. now I got great articulation but lacking warmth/meat... when I run the bass frequencies up, I get a lot of resonating going on [long story] but no real help. When I add the Avatar cab, all of a sudden is like an explosion at same gain levels I had been running to the 210 alone.... the 15 is just way, way more efficient.
    so my hard work at playing up the neck and using a good number of non-fundamental notes is kinda going to waste [why bother?].
    if I can control the low end to the big 15, i think i could balance it out, but it sounds like from what you're saying, I should use my trusty old workingman combo for the low end, bringing the feed out of the effects loop of the yorkie, cut the horn, just use the big driver, and trim back the trebs and mid on the WM.
    i'll give that a whirl.. its just that the WM doesn't have the bite in the mid & high as does the york

  10. Seems like you should be ble to balance out your cabs with some EQ. I would turn down your bass control and if that isn't working for you maybe an outboard graphic EQ would work.
  11. Fuzzhead


    Sep 26, 2005
    There is a few units like the Weber MASS and the Power brake, The Marshall SE 100 etc...they're designed for 8 Ohm 100W tube guitar heads though, I don't think they would hold up to 3-400 watts solid state. Plus they will affect your tone.

    A stereo power amp or additional amp sounds the best bet for controlling volume differences in your cabs.