I'm wondering which glue I should use for the wings of my bass. (I have a build thread here). The wings are to be made of two walnut board each, which I will need to laminate together to make the wings the right thickness. I was originally going to use original Titebond, but I remembered the woodshop teacher had a bottle of Gorilla Glue at school. Would it be better to laminate two boards together with polyurethane glue? I've read some glue threads before but I haven't seen this situation in them. I know that polyurethane glue will expand, and that it won't cause boards to warp since there's no water in it. I don't know how much warping the Titebond would cause on my boards, but I heard it can puddle between two large areas. Also, I was thinking that maybe the Gorilla Glue would make a glue line between the two boards. I don't feel that would really be a bad thing, since I kind of wanted some kind of separator between the two pieces.
Any polyvinyl acetate will do the trick. White glue that is. Urethane glue doesnt necessarily (or shouldnt imo) leave a line. Some people fear the humidity in white and yellow glues, especially when working with thin material. Ive been using Titebond 2 and 3 for basses and exterior doors and windows, havent had a problem with it since.
Let me say this to prevent a division here: The glue doesn't matter -- the Joint does. Two clean straight and flat surfaces and you can use any glue your heart desires. Also, I am a Titebond guy as well
Titebond III for almost all bonding except fingerboards or nuts... real hide glue for that or Titebond liquid "hide" glue in emergencies.
I'm using Elmer's Pro-bond wood glue right now. (The yellow stuff, not Polyurethane) Seems fine to me. It seems to be next most common after Titebond I and II from what I've seen around the various forums. -Nick
Maybe I just had a bad batch of Elmer's Pro-bond but I used it once and the glue didn't sand very well. The joints weren't clean and the glue left very small rubbery residue. Anyone else have this problem?