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Double Bass What Should I clean my upright fingerboard with??

I would think soap would leave residue on the fingerboard/strings... I just wipe down with a dry cloth when I am done playing. Always works just fine.

We're not talking gallons here Adrian! :)

A quick wipe might do for your hands (and mine) but many players build up sticky scunge on the fingerboard that needs to be periodically removed. I'm not comfortable with regularly soaking the board in naphtha or solvent, hence the warm water and a little soap.
 
Mostly just a daily wipe down on the strings and fingerboard with an old T shirt that I keep tucked under the tailpiece when not playing. I use the same rag to wipe off rosin.

Friction tends to warm up the goo and take it off. I use to use an alcohol-dampened cloth but have gotten away from it.

Once in a while I will use rubbing alcohol to de-gunk the strings, but mostly just wiping with a dry cloth does that, too.
 
most simply, my teacher tells me to use just soap and water on a wet rag for the fingerboard and strings.

how often to you guys here clean the rosin off your strings? i kind of like it caked up on 'em.
Im not very sure that water should be put on a Fretboard at all.
Though i watched a few videos on YT of people doing just that.Washing their Fretboards with soapy water & then oiling with Lemon or Orange oil.Seemed as if they had great results.
The thought of putting water on a Fretboard scares me a bit but i know people do it with no problem.:hmm:
 
If there's one thing I have learned over the years, it's that musicians LOVE to carry on at length over oils, cleaners, polishes, and the like... (Witness the length of this thread...)

I've been a cabinetmaker all my life, seen more wood than most people, and I am continually amazed by the misinformation that is spread around, and, since the dawn of the internet discussion forum, is spread around to a wider audience and at a more alarming rate!

Firstly, the overuse of oils of any kind on the fingerboard is possibly the worst thing! There's a commonly held folk wisdom that says that the fingerboard needs to be "fed". Wrong! The wood in the fingerboard is dead! It needs no feeding! If you continually slather your fingerboard with oil, especially the wrong types of oil, you are providing a place for dust and crud to build up. It doesn't do anything for playability or well-being of the wood, and just needs to be removed later.

All oils are not the same! Some folks recommend mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Worst thing you could do! Petroleum-based oils DO NOT polymerize when applied and exposed to oxygen. They simply remain oily. Better choices are plant-based oils like boiled linseed oil. which will polymerize quite nicely and get to be a relatively hard consistency. This is why boiled linseed oil is the basis of a lot of furniture oil finishes. Petroleum oils are not! (Would you even consider motor oil as a wood finish for anything....?)

Don't even get me started on "lemon oil". While this is everyone's favourite, I'm here to tell you that there is nothing lemon about most commercially-sold lemon oil! It's mostly petroleum based solvents with a little lemon smellum added. I've only seen real lemon oil once in my life. It was in a health-food store, came in a 10 ml. eye-dropper bottle, and was prohibitively expensive!

If you need to clean your fingerboard or the body of your instrument, first you need to know what you're trying to remove, and what will dissolve it. If you just want to clean up dust, use a dry rag, as a lot of people here have mentioned. If you do have a build-up of gunk on the fingerboard from finger oils, sweat, dead skin cells, try a damp rag first. You don't need to slosh a lot of water around; you just need a LITTLE water and some elbow grease. The water will evaporate quickly enough. If the gunk has a lot of oily content, you can try a petroleum solvent, SPARINGLY! Your first choice should be naptha (also known as camp stove fuel, white gas, lighter fluid, it's all the same thing) This will not harm a nitrocellulose lacquer or poly finish. Do not use it on an oil finish, since it will dissolve the oil.

For an oil finished bass, though these are rare, you can get out the steel wool to remove gunk. 0000 is a good choice; it's the finest grade made. After abrasion to remove whatever, a spot application of a suitable oil finish can sometimes be helpful, but this is best undertaken for the first time upon the advice of a pro. You simply don't need much oil, and most people over-oil...

If you need to remove a build-up of rosin, try a LITTLE alcohol on a cloth. Alcohol dissolves rosin quite nicely and will not hurt a nitro or poly finish.

Of course, if you have a nice old bass where the finish has worn or deteriorated to a cracked or worn state, take all of this with a grain of salt. Keep the instrument as clean as possible with the minimum of abuse or the use of solvents of any sort. Keep your hands clean when you play, don't spill stuff on your bass, and don't slather on potions and polishes when they aren't really needed!.
 
JtheJazzMan said:
Methylated spirits on the fingerboard and strings. You may want to check with others before putting metho on non-steel strings. I dont think you should put harsh cleaners on gut for example.

Just a slightly damp cloth to clean the body, picks up the dust and rosin powder on the body.

Don't let it contact your skin. Methanol is absorbed through your skin.
 
To be honest, I rarely clean the board. If it was needed, I'd use Xylene, which is a pretty mild solvent.(learned it from top repairmen) I'd be pretty surprised at any build up that required anything more than a cloth.
 
More misinformation!

Of course methanol is absorbed through the skin... I would hazard a guess that every known solvent (including water) is absorbed through and into the skin. The rate of absorption is so low, however, that denatured methanol has been used as a basis for pimple medicine, makeup remover, and mild disinfectant (all of which are meant to be put directly ON the skin) for years. If you're gonna soak in it, that's a bad thing! If you're gonna put a dab of it on a cloth and clean something, don't worry about it! It evaporates so quickly that the danger of absorbing more than a miniscule amount is minimum!

Xylene, on the other hand, is well worth the warning! It's quite high on the reduction scale, is DEFINITELY NOT a mild solvent, and should be kept well away from most household cleaning uses if you don't have protective gear!
 
+1 Phil.


For me some 0000 steel wool on a finger board and some boiled linseed oil is the only way to go. I only do this when my finger board gets mucky and this is few and far between.

I would not put Xylene on anything I loved. I used to buy that stuff by the tanker load, ain't nothing mild about it.
 
More misinformation!

Of course methanol is absorbed through the skin... I would hazard a guess that every known solvent (including water) is absorbed through and into the skin. The rate of absorption is so low, however, that denatured methanol has been used as a basis for pimple medicine, makeup remover, and mild disinfectant (all of which are meant to be put directly ON the skin) for years. If you're gonna soak in it, that's a bad thing! If you're gonna put a dab of it on a cloth and clean something, don't worry about it! It evaporates so quickly that the danger of absorbing more than a miniscule amount is minimum!

Xylene, on the other hand, is well worth the warning! It's quite high on the reduction scale, is DEFINITELY NOT a mild solvent, and should be kept well away from most household cleaning uses if you don't have protective gear!

Aha, I think we both need to be careful about our terminology, and I appreciate being corrected. I incorrectly assumed that "methylated spirits" and pure methanol are the same thing, whereas this article says it's ethanol with a small amount of methanol added.

But "denatured methanol" is also probably not what you are talking about.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

My info in skin absorption of methanol is from my parents... admittedly a strange source to cite, but they're both chemists.
 
Methylated spirits/Denatured alcohol is pretty commonly used for cleaning, including fingerboards. You don't want to get it on the finish of the bass, even though it doesn't dissolve most finishes it will cloud them, but it will get rosin off strings and fingerboard.

It's not a serious health hazard, if you're not using it every day. Which you shouldn't be, because you don't have to let the gunk build up in the first place. A dry rag gets rid of most rosin, and a damp one deals with much of the rest.
 
If there's one thing I have learned over the years, it's that musicians LOVE to carry on at length over oils, cleaners, polishes, and the like... (Witness the length of this thread...)

I've been a cabinetmaker all my life, seen more wood than most people, and I am continually amazed by the misinformation that is spread around, and, since the dawn of the internet discussion forum, is spread around to a wider audience and at a more alarming rate!

Firstly, the overuse of oils of any kind on the fingerboard is possibly the worst thing! There's a commonly held folk wisdom that says that the fingerboard needs to be "fed". Wrong! The wood in the fingerboard is dead! It needs no feeding! If you continually slather your fingerboard with oil, especially the wrong types of oil, you are providing a place for dust and crud to build up. It doesn't do anything for playability or well-being of the wood, and just needs to be removed later.

All oils are not the same! Some folks recommend mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Worst thing you could do! Petroleum-based oils DO NOT polymerize when applied and exposed to oxygen. They simply remain oily. Better choices are plant-based oils like boiled linseed oil. which will polymerize quite nicely and get to be a relatively hard consistency. This is why boiled linseed oil is the basis of a lot of furniture oil finishes. Petroleum oils are not! (Would you even consider motor oil as a wood finish for anything....?)

Don't even get me started on "lemon oil". While this is everyone's favourite, I'm here to tell you that there is nothing lemon about most commercially-sold lemon oil! It's mostly petroleum based solvents with a little lemon smellum added. I've only seen real lemon oil once in my life. It was in a health-food store, came in a 10 ml. eye-dropper bottle, and was prohibitively expensive!

If you need to clean your fingerboard or the body of your instrument, first you need to know what you're trying to remove, and what will dissolve it. If you just want to clean up dust, use a dry rag, as a lot of people here have mentioned. If you do have a build-up of gunk on the fingerboard from finger oils, sweat, dead skin cells, try a damp rag first. You don't need to slosh a lot of water around; you just need a LITTLE water and some elbow grease. The water will evaporate quickly enough. If the gunk has a lot of oily content, you can try a petroleum solvent, SPARINGLY! Your first choice should be naptha (also known as camp stove fuel, white gas, lighter fluid, it's all the same thing) This will not harm a nitrocellulose lacquer or poly finish. Do not use it on an oil finish, since it will dissolve the oil.

For an oil finished bass, though these are rare, you can get out the steel wool to remove gunk. 0000 is a good choice; it's the finest grade made. After abrasion to remove whatever, a spot application of a suitable oil finish can sometimes be helpful, but this is best undertaken for the first time upon the advice of a pro. You simply don't need much oil, and most people over-oil...

If you need to remove a build-up of rosin, try a LITTLE alcohol on a cloth. Alcohol dissolves rosin quite nicely and will not hurt a nitro or poly finish.

Of course, if you have a nice old bass where the finish has worn or deteriorated to a cracked or worn state, take all of this with a grain of salt. Keep the instrument as clean as possible with the minimum of abuse or the use of solvents of any sort. Keep your hands clean when you play, don't spill stuff on your bass, and don't slather on potions and polishes when they aren't really needed!.

+1,000!

If you've ever been curious to know what it'd be like to be tarred, feathered, and ridden out of town on a rail, try posting factual information like this on the electric bass forum. :hiding:
 
...But "denatured methanol" is also probably not what you are talking about.

Correct, you have expressed it far better than I did! It's the ethanol that is denatured by the addition of perhaps... 15% methanol. rendering it undrinkable. (or at least very, very unpleasant...)

I suppose this has geographic peculiarities... Here in northern Canada, it is common to use methanol as an engine gas-line antifreeze in the winter. It's even added to gasoline as standard practice by some oil companies. I once employed a painter (a practicing alcoholic) who became blind after drinking methyl hydrate. He was in his cups and found a bottle behind his friend's truck seat, from which he drank and passed out...
 
Xylene, according to every luthier I know, is perfect for removing serious rosin buildup. Here's what Wikipedia has to say:

Xylenes are not highly toxic as indicated by the high values of the LD50, which range from 200 to 4000 mg/kg for animals. The principal mechanism of detoxification is oxidation to methylbenzoic acid and hydroxylation to hydroxylene.[1] However, the material safety data sheet (MSDS) rating assigned is for a moderate hazard, indicating safe handling precautions should include goggles, protective clothing, ventilation, and proper gloves, with storage of the material in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location since it is highly flammable.

If you wipe your bass down after use (it takes me about 20 seconds) the issue will never come up.
 

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