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What to do with the wretched green wire?

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by GretschWretch, Jan 22, 2014.

  1. I'm finally bringing to the workbench some basses I have let languish far too long, of the same type as the red bass at this link:


    I'm starting with the single-pickup basses, which all seem to have two things in common: necks that bow badly when tuned to pitch, and wonky, changed-from-factory wiring.

    I know the corrective for neck bow, but the (mis)wiring on each bass is so one-of-a-kind that I have elected to disconnect the harness on each bass and rewire from scratch using the diagram here as my blueprint.


    This works fine for basses still at factory spec, but a couple of these have been stripped and refinished and have had different pickups installed; and the pickups have more than just one hot and one ground lead, like they have capability for switching although no switch was ever installed. At least one of these extra wires is color-coded green, and I don't know where to connect these or any of the other "extra" pickup leads.

    I'm not interested in adding switches just to accommodate these extra leads, so coming off the pickup, what should I connect the other end of these leads to?
  2. What is the corrective for neck bow? Sorry to be off topic.
  3. It's probably a shield ground. Check it with an Ohm meter. If the resistance is infinite to either other lead, it's a shield. If it's some value less than the DCR of the coil, it's a coil tap, or a series link, if the pickup is humbucking.
  4. faulknersj sez: What is the corrective for neck bow? Sorry to be off topic.

    Assuming the truss rod is maxed out and there still is bow then a corrective (there has to be more than one) is:

    1) Slack or remove the strings and loosen all tension from the truss rod.
    2) Place bass (or neck if bolt-on) face down at the edge of a bench, with some protection beneath to prevent finish damage.
    3) Place cauls of 1/4 to 3/4 inch thickness beneath neck at nut and last fret.
    4) About where the bow is deepest place a caul (not one that will damage the finish or compress the wood); on the caul place a c-clamp with the turn-screw bearing down on the caul and the fixed jaw beneath the bench edge.
    5) Train a heat lamp (about 150 w) on the clamp/caul -- NOT TOO CLOSE -- and as the wood heats up gradually tighten down the clamp until the desired amount of backbow has been achieved. Do this gradually, over hours as the neck heats up.
    6) Once the desired backbow has been reached, keep the neck under heat clamp for 24/48 hours, then switch off the lamp and let the neck cool under clamp for 24/48 hours. The neck needs time to "forget" its former bowed configuration.
    7) Restring, and see how much the string tension brings the neck into proper relief. Use truss rod to tweak.