What's the best way to repair a stripped strap lock screw ???

I've always just filled in the hole with plastic wood and reused the existing screw.

 

Dowel rod or tooth picks and wood glue. Let dry over night, sand, screw.

 

Fill hole with wood glue, tap in as many toothpicks as needed, break them off and wipe excess glue off with damp rag. Reassemble.

 

Don't drill a larger hole! You'll make things worse.

The classic solution relies on toothpicks and wood glue. Grab 3 or 4 toothpicks and dunk them in wood glue (or Elmer's glue). Push one down all the way to the bottom of the hole. Then push another one in. Depending on the diameter of the hole, the first 1 or 2 will go in without any resistance.

Once the bulk of the hole is filled with the first toothpick(s), push one more in and tap it down gently with a small hammer or the pommel of a screwdriver. Just enough force to tamp it down; not so much force that you snap it. Keep doing this until the hole is totally full.

At that point, clip off whatever's sticking out using side-cutters (whatever you use to clip your string-ends will work). If you don't have side-cutters, you can use a sharp knife or box cutter to shave the toothpicks flush with the body. Use a damp towel to wipe off any glue before it dries.

Then wait a few hours--preferably overnight--for the glue to dry and set. Once it's dry, you can simply screw in the original screw and you're done. Personally, I would use a new screw to make sure the threads are sharp and the head isn't deformed. But you can reuse the old one if it's in good shape.

 

Bamboo or hardwood toothpicks, not pine or softwood.

 

Most toothpicks are made of paper birch.

 

Good point. Somehow all my toothpicks are bamboo, so I never think about this!

 

While you're at it, go ahead & replace those strap locks with over-sized strap buttons:


I've used the toothpick method more than a couple of times & never had any problem with it coming back out, but I did have to use two toothpick ends once, in a very soft wood Cort. It was also the lightest bass I ever owned.
The trick is to stick it in there all the way, then back it off just a tiny bit (about a millimeter), then snap the toothpick flush with the hole.
Take that out, & now reverse the broken piece with the pointed end at the entrance to the hole. This way it's easier to thread the screw into the hole.

IOW, break it off, flip it around, re-insert it, & put screw back in.

BTW, that Cort I mentioned is made of Poplar:

Action PJ

 

It works fine generally, unless it's really badly stripped out - then you're better off drilling out the damage, doweling, and redrilling the pilot hole. But most times toothpicks are fine.

 

If you run into a lot of resistance installing the new screw by hand then back it out and drill a narrow pilot hole first. Otherwise, you risk splitting the wood. Also, don't use a power drill to install the screw.

 

done this many times. never had to re do it...always works.

 

I agree use real wood toothpicks. If not then just a sliver of real scrap hardwood. Some toothpicks just seem to be compressed wood dust.

 

Screw in while glue is wet. Creates a resin threaded insert. Waiting til its dry isn't necessary. Wipe up whatever gushes out with a wet cloth.

 

however...

if you put a felt washer between the pin & the body, you don't want to screw it into wet glue, or the felt will be glued to your bass

 

Dunlop Straploks or toothpicks and glue

 

^this^

Run the screw in while the glue is wet and let it dry with the screw in place. It wouldn't hurt to put some wax on the screw threads to prevent the glue from sticking to the screw. Install the button as usual, without the felt if you have one, and wipe up any excess glue. Run the screw up enough to get all the excess glue, including any that may be trapped under the strap button, cleaned off before you run it down to leave it until it dries. Once it's dry remove the screw and put the felt on if you have one.

 

+1 to these last few guys;

stuff with wood glue soaked toothpicks, screw in the button while wet.

if you don't, the strength will be compromised. (wood glue has to be clamped to be strong, cranking in the screw while the glue is still wet provides the clamping pressure.)

no wood putty, no loctite, no superglue, no waiting; the best way is also the easiest, stuff with wood glue-soaked wood slivers, crank in the screw while still wet, done.

 

what type of wood glue is reccomended ?