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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by kitcar765, Oct 23, 2005.
whats the diffrence between ric 4001 and ric 4003??
is one better tahn the other?
The neck is a little stronger on the 4003 according to the folks at Ric.
paul n made a great post here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2456517&postcount=4
Basically the 4001 has the old rods, the 4003 has the new rods.
(Note: the new 4001 vintage-reissue C-series basses (the 4001C64 and 4001C64S) have the new rods too.)
4003 has an updated trussrod system, the old ones was kinda sensitive to roundwound strings. and the 4003 is cheaper(?)
The 4001 was designed to play with flats, the 4003 was designed to play with whatever - hence the difference in the necks.
My former teacher bought an older 4001 (can't remember what year) when a local store went out of business. He took it to a really good local place (5th Ave. Fret Shop) to have a set up and asked about the flats, because he's a roundwound guy. The guy at the shop told him that the myth about flats on Rics is just that, a myth. So he went with roundwounds and hasn't had any problems. It's not a bass he gigs with or anything, though. So whenever I read/see/hear this I always wonder how much the flats vs. rounds affect the Ric's playability.
The truss rods are the main difference, although their are some other differences with the older (1960s) 4001. The early 4001s had different pickups and I believe were mono until later in life. Also, the fretboard had dots instead of triangles as fret markers.
I'm thinking the Flat vs. Round must be a myth. Most flats (except fot TIs. and a couple of others) have a higher neck tension than most rounds.
I tend to believe him, 'cause...well, he owns the company.
From what I understand, most flatwounds that existed back when the 4000/4001 were designed were lower tension, like the TI's.
Thanks for saving me the trouble of finding that quote
Also, Here's a great site with many interesting things about Rickenbackers: http://www.rickresource.com/rrp/axtbassarticle2.html
BTW, if you like that old McCartney tone, TI flats on any Rick sound fantastic. Rich, deep and very cello-like overtones.
I don't know an awful lot about Rics, but I was lookin at the vintage reissue 4001c series, and they don't have body binding. So there's one difference, I suppose.
The "C" series is bassed on McCartney's 4001S The "S" indicates no binding. I have no idea why they lable it as a "4001" withoug the "S". There also used to be a 4003S that had no binding.
The flat-wound thing isn't a myth. The old Rickenbacker flatwounds (made by Maxima or some company that sounds like that) had lowwer tension and the necks and trussrods were designed to work with them. Like most companies back then, Rick' probably asumed you'd use their brand of strings rather than another brand so they didn't compensate for that possibility in the rod design. FYI: the rods are made of aluminum.
You CAN use rounds on old Ricks', but there is a chance it might hurt the rods. More than likely though if a 4001 has made it this far it can handle rounds. Two of the three big Rick players in the 70's used Rotosound roundwounds, so it's fairly safe to say that most 4001's have had rounds on them st one point or another. If the rods are still intact, chances are the neck can take rounds. Interesting note: in the 70's, putting Rotosound rounds on your new 4001 could void the basses warrantee.
The real danger comes from not adjusting the rods properly. They are designed to hold the neck in place rather than actually move it into place like most modern truss rods. To decrease the relief you need to bend the neck back and then tighten down the rods to hold it in place. To reduce the relief, you need to do the same thing, but loosen the nuts. Sounds involved, but it's really easy to do. Just stand up on a carpeted floor with the bass infront of you with the butt end on the floor. Brace the back of the neck with your knee and gently pull back on the neck by the nut then thighten down or loosen the nuts. no big whoop. Not doing this can put too much stress on the threaded part of the rods and bend them down making them impossible to adjust. In the absolute worst case senario you can even pop the fingerboard.
Thanks for the clarification and the info, Paul.
would it be possible to put "normal" truss rods in a 4001?