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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by Just go for it, May 9, 2021.
More humid in Japan? I’m just speculating.
Oh...a couple further comments.
Comment 1: We have 3 MIM instruments at my work. They are kept in a ridiculously well controlled climate - temperature and humidity. 2 of the 3, within a couple years, have twisted pretty badly. I don't believe that the MIM Fender necks are properly seasoned. So, they'll move a lot the first few years; if yours settles in a straight condition, consider yourself lucky.
Comment 2: If your MIJ is older (it likely is, and it was probably seasoned better), it's been through it's unstable childhood period - wood does tend to settle down over time.
Each neck is a different piece of wood.
Trees are a magical thing no two are alike, your experiences are totally normal in the same way that a person who was made in Japan or made in Mexico will differ in there physical makeup so will the two necks and thus have different strengths and weaknesses kind of simple really?
They're made in two different factories in two different countries. Not all wood is exactly the same even if they're both maple or hard rock maple. If they were cut from the same log they would probably act the same.
My CIJ Geddy wouldn't hold a setting worth a crap. Set it up i..ts fine...come back to it couple days later and it's all wonky again. Buzzin like crazy or 1/4 inch high. Glad to have gotten rid of it.
Do they have the same fretboards and finish?
An unfinished rosewood board will obviously absorb much more humidity than a poly coated maple board.
Even two apparently identical rosewood boards will absorb humidity differently if they have different oils applied to them.
Are the finishes different? Most MIJ fenders I’ve seen have a thick poly finish, and that’s less susceptible to changes from temp & humidity. If your MIJ is a thicker finish than the MIM, that could be a reason.
It's just fluke, imho. I've seen it with different basses of the exact same brand and model and spec. Some just are more sensitive.
One is finished in nitrocellulose lacquer and one is encased in plastic (polyurethane finish)
Dried wood matters. My the necks on my '64 P-basses are like petrified wood, straight and stiff as iron, never need adjusting. In contrast, I had a Squier with a rubber neck that was needing constant tweaking to stay set up.
fingerboard material and thickness also helps.
a rock hard fingerboard of substantial thickness will do amazing things for stability..
all else being equal, sometimes one piece of wood just acts a certain way. even good "quality" lumber that is well seasoned will have variance from one piece to the next. that's why a lot of the best makers check on their pieces over a year in different conditions to make sure they have the best stuff.
quality of wood >>>> thin or thick wood
The thickness of the wood means nothing if the wood is high quality. There is a reason why MIM basses are inexpensive. They are made with cheaper parts and wood. Some may say MIJ are the same price as MIM and to that i say MIJ are made to a higher standard
It doesn't matter. As long as the truss rod can tame the neck movement, just tweak it when needed and relax.
I own two Peavey basses of the same model. One now has a warped neck that can no longer be tamed by the truss rod and the other neck barely moves with the weather. I had an AVRI Jazz that developed a warped neck, obviously not every AVRI ever made had the same problem.
good post! It’s amazing how much water can be absorbed. I was reading a article about a Taylor acoustic who’s owner lived in a very high humid area. He sent it back to Taylor. They put it in a dehumidifier chamber over a weekend. By Monday morning, the dehumidifier extracted over a 1/4 cup of water from it.
Just a total shot in the dark:
Are the fretboards maple or rosewood? If the MIM is maple, it may be the same piece of wood as the neck. If the MIJ is rosewood, then it's obviously laminated on top of the neck blank, which creates a lot of strength. Same concept as plywood.
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