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wiring help needed: P/J

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by ack, Jan 20, 2012.

  1. ack

    ack Why Can't We All Get Along?

    Nov 19, 2006
    Somewhere near Raleigh
    I'm new to working with the electrical side of basses, but I thought I'd give re-wiring a shot myself. I've run into a small issue and need some advice.

    I used all new Fender pots to rewire an old Peavey Forum P/J that wasn't working properly. I was having issues with the D/G side of the split-P as well as severe volume reduction with both pickup (P&J) on full.

    I replaced the defective split-P and used all new pots, cap and wire. I even replaced the wire on the output jack.

    Now, both pickups work perfectly, however, the Tone pot basically does not work. To me, it sounds like the tone is full on, but when I sweep the knob, there's no change.

    I used Fender 250k pots (P/N: 0990830000 - "Orig T/V CNTRL 250K SPLIT SHAFT") for both Volume and the Tone pots. I used the supplied Brown Capacitor (ICMSR223K 250V S B04) on the Tone pot. The old cap was Green an had # 473J2AY on it.

    I've been searching for possible solutions and I think I'm finding that the Brown Cap in there now is .0223uF compared to the .047uF which is what I think I'm reading from charts online. I may be wrong.

    Here's my initial thoughts:
    -Both Pickups work great, which mean that they're wired correctly through all 3 pots.
    -It's not noisy, so everything is grounded properly.
    -I have the wrong value Cap on the Tone pot.

    Will having the wrong value cap cause the Tone to not roll through any range at all?

    I followed the following Basic plan (V/V/T) - although my soldering isn't nearly as neat as the diagram:

    Any suggestions?
  2. Stealth


    Feb 5, 2008
    Zagreb, Croatia
    A "wrong" (actually, just different-value) capacitor may make it more or less perceptible, but it should still work, by all means.

    Can you take a photo with a regular camera or cellphone camera? That might give a better insight into what's wrong. Basically it boils down to three things:
    • Is the pot correctly connected to the main signal wire that goes to the output jack tip?
    • Is the capacitor soldered to the correct lug on its pot?
    • Is the capacitor good or has it gone for good?
  3. ack

    ack Why Can't We All Get Along?

    Nov 19, 2006
    Somewhere near Raleigh
    Thanks for the reply - I will take a few pictures later and post what I find. I may, just as an experiment, replace the new cap with the old one and see what happens.
  4. tdub0199


    Mar 4, 2010
    Atlanta, Ga.
    I would def. change the cap back to a .047uF
  5. There should still be a discernible difference in tone with a .0223. My guess is that the metal lead is shorting against the middle post. Also if you really want to be able to roll off highs you can up the cap to a .082 or a .1. I have done this with my Foundations and it really allows more dramatic tone changes(can be too dramatic at times).
  6. ack

    ack Why Can't We All Get Along?

    Nov 19, 2006
    Somewhere near Raleigh
    Thanks for the replies.
    I opened it back up - everything looked correctly soldered.
    I replaced the new cap with the old .047uF cap, and it works fine.
    I'm going to leave it in for now, but I may try a .082 or .1 and see how it affects the tone range.
  7. A 0.022uF cap will have a higher cutoff frequency than a 0.047uF cap, so you won't hear as much of a rolloff.

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