1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  

Wiring Help!

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by theNecatoR, Jun 2, 2014.


  1. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    I think I have mentioned it before, but I would like to build my own custom Jaguar with a P/J configuration.
    Besides Aesthetics and Pickups, the difference would be a S1 Potentiometer to do Series/Parallel with both Pickups (without having to add more switches) and a 3 Way Toggle switch to choose Pickups (à la Jazzmaster). The preamp I would like to install is an Aguilar OBP2-2 (Although Delano looks like a good alternative).
    I made this Wiring Diagram, but if there is anyone savvy and can take a look at it, it would be great:
    Slide1_zpsa2ccebe8.
     
  2. The series/parallel switching is wrong, and the volume pot is wired backwards. Also, the negative terminal of the battery does not go to the sleeve terminal of the jack. It goes to the ring terminal.
     
    theNecatoR and AGH like this.
  3. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    Thanks! How could I correct the series parallel switch?
    I had trouble planing it!
     
  4. If you can follow along with what is going on in this diagram, the wiring will be the same, but with a toggle switch instead of a rotary switch. If not, I can redraw it with a toggle switch.
    11719985243_9d9232baf6_o.
     
    theNecatoR likes this.
  5. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    Thanks, mate!
    Does this looks right now?
    Slide1_zpse60ded2a.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2014
  6. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    Or rather like this?

    Slide1_zps5f6356be.
     
  7. Very close. The orange and green wires need to be swapped on the pickup selector switch.
     
    theNecatoR likes this.
  8. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    So, I think I have it. Thanks, mate, it's the first time I draw a diagram from scratch! (or at all, if it comes to Instrument wiring)
    Slide1_zps747f98f3.
     
  9. Perfect.

    One last thing that I would assume you are aware of; There are three grounds that are not accounted for in the diagram. One from the sleeve terminal of the jack, one from the instrument's bridge, and one from the preamp.
     
    theNecatoR likes this.
  10. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    I am aware of it, but better safe than sorry! Again, thanks a lot!

    Slide1_zpsd6a9eb99.
     
  11. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    So, there is more! It seems then that my preamp on/off switch is not true bypass, according to this diagram. Or is it?
    Also, I am using an S1 Switch, and it seems to have 12 terminals instead of the 6 I drew on mine. I like the aesthetics of the S1 switch, so I would love it to work in my diagram. I assume I must only ignore the 6 terminals in the middle and use the sides, right?
     
  12. Looks like a nice project! I've wired many instruments like this. Here's a couple of ideas, take or leave any of them...

    If the S1 is used for the series-para switch, I'd recommend using the spare poles to add attenuation to the series setting. 100k and 120K resistors wired as a voltage divider will give you 5dB attenuation in series mode and can be bypassed in parallel mode. It'll darken the tone of that series mode slightly though.

    It is possible to have the passive tone pot only work while the preamp is bypassed. Most people I've wired this sort of thing for prefer it this way.

    And if you haven't already routed, without a blend or two volumes, I'd recommend considering very carefully where that bridge pickup is going. IME, if it's too close to the bridge, you'll never use it in solo mode. Perhaps, string the bass up, aligator clip the pickup to a guitar lead, then stand it upside-down over the strings on blobs of blu-tac so you can move it around and find the place you like.

    No, it is true bypass.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014
    theNecatoR likes this.
  13. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    Thanks for the tips! It means then that my switch is correct and also my assumption that I can just wire the sides for the series/parallel (and use the center ones for resistors).

    I have not routed, but I'm planning to use a Fender Jaguar Body, the Bridge pickup will be close to the bridge, almost like in a '75 Jazz. I like that position very much. I have two Jaguars, one with this ('75ish) position, and a Troy Sanders, which has the pickup closer to the neck ('60s). While it is true that I never use the bridge pickup alone, I like what being closer to the bridge gives to the overall sound.
    I would like to use a Seymour Duncan SPB-3 on the neck position and a STK-J2 for the bridge.
    I am likely going to solo the neck a lot, but I like the possibility to add a barfy bridge sometimes (It will be quieter than the P, like always, which is not necessarily a bad thing). I will run parallel most of the time, but being able to use them in series would be great for a muddy fuzzed riff.
     
  14. Yes, it is true-bypass.

    The S1 switches are 4PDT. You don't have to use all of the poles and throws, however.
     
    theNecatoR likes this.
  15. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    Thanks! Now I can start buying! (but slowly, money is tight :D )
     
  16. Yep. Depending on how you do the series-parallel, you'll use one or both of the extra poles.

    But if the $$ are tight, then I'd go with a rotary switch. A 4P3T rotary switch will give you what the S1 and the toggle do together, and with what I would say is easier functionality and a much cheaper price. (You'll have one switch that goes bridge / both in parallel / neck / both in series. And you'll still have the option of adding attenuation to the series setting.) If you were planning to have the toggle down on the lower horn for that retro look, then I'd put the rotary switch there, but with a chicken head knob on it. I've wired a few jags/mustangs/jazz masters like this and it looks great! If you've never installed a rotary switch before, use a shakeproof washer, or better yet, drill the extra little hole for the position lug. If your knob won't hide the little hole, then you can dremel a groove or use a drill collar so you don't go right through the pickguard, then trim the lug down if neccessary.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014
    theNecatoR likes this.
  17. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    So can I just ignore the two extra poles and call it a day for series/parallel without resistors?

    That is actually a great idea, and I like the look of chicken head knobs. I have never installed a rotary switch, but I'm ordering a gold anodized custom pick guard, so I should probably work that into the pickguard I designed if I go that route.
     
  18. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    The (projected) costs of the build:

    Fender S1 knob $ 9,99
    250K S1 solid shaft pot $ 22,99
    CTS 250k Audio Solid Shaft $ 4,99
    0.22 Orange Drop Cap $ 2,99
    Jazzmaster Switch Aged Tip $ 19,79
    Jazzmaster On/On Switch $ 4,99
    Aguilar OBP-2 Preamp $149,99 *
    Jazzmaster Roller Knobs $ 11,49
    18v Battery Box $ 28,79
    Jaguar Bracket $ 14,79
    Seymour Duncan SPB-3 $ 64,95 *
    Seymour Duncan STK-J2B $ 75,95 *
    Jaguar Bass Body $197,99
    Allparts Neck Bound & Block $329,99
    Fender Bass Bridge $ 29,99
    Cloth Wire $ 9,79
    Chrome "F" Neckplate $ 9,99
    Hipshot BT-4 D-Tuner $ 58,95
    Nitro Lack 28,70€
    Custom made pickguard ?

    Shipping parts to europe $71,00 + $13,95 + $14,00
    Taxes 104€ + 78€ + 12€

    Grand Total: 1.072,00€ + Pickguard (100ish €?)

    A Custom made Bass, with everything I want, for (relatively) little money. I could flip one of my basses to do it :greedy:
    (I can probably get the preamp and pickups elsewhere for less, I guess)
     
  19. theNecatoR

    theNecatoR

    Jun 23, 2012
    Something more that kind of hit me today. Is the battery still draining with the preamp off in my design? How could I correct that (if possible) and is the master tone useless with the preamp on? And the volume?
    Thanks again!
     
  20. If the battery's negative terminal connects to the ring terminal of the jack, then you are fine.

    Whether or not passive tone controls are useless with preamps is personal preference. Note that the filter effect you get from a tone control is not at all similar to rolling down a treble knob on an equalizer.

    What about the volume?
     
    theNecatoR likes this.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.