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Wiring replacements to an EMG BTS EQ

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Count Bassie, Jun 4, 2007.

  1. I have a Schecter Stiletto, and have pulled the EMG HZ p'ups. In the "neck" position I've installed a DiMarzio model-1, wired as "Dual-Sound", and it's connected to the BTS on-board EQ thingy with a trim-pot between the p'up and the vol pot. Here it is, with a home-made pickguard:

    I want to now install a P-type split-p'up just below (bridge side) the DiMarzio- and upside down. Any experts familiar with a scenario like this? I can give some more details if anyone can get with this so far, but frankly this is pretty much it! :help:

    You're going to need to be patient with me on this... but with a little effort I can be pretty good and clear on paper.

    Thanks for your time!
  2. luknfur


    Jan 14, 2004

    Personally I would caution about putting a P pup in at the bridge position. Everybody has different taste but the few P's (Fend '59 CS and SD 1/4 that come to mind) I've stuck at the bridge really don't like it. Doesn't mean it may not be just the ticket in combo with DM but I'd speculate pretty usless alone. You'd have less tonal flexibility in other words.

    A J would optimize flexibility even though it may not look as novel - but there's probably a reason for that.

    If you use a LOT of coloration in your chain it won't matter but if play stripped down it might.

    Or you could always do what I did since you made the pickgaurd. Route about a 3/4" x 4" x 7" route below the strings, stick any pup anywhere you want and cover with a pickgaurd.
  3. I have a Mexican P and one that came out of my old Japanese ('83) P bass. I'm thinking very close to the DiMarzio, like right under it 1/4" or so below- as close to the sweet spot as I can now get it.

    You may well be telling me the right thing though about a J- and that's a cool idea about the big rout idea. Of course changing p'ups means a new pickguard, and I made this one out of Luaun and Epoxy. I suppose I could make a few, and have 'em handy!
  4. luknfur


    Jan 14, 2004

    That's a two octave bass so basically everythings already shifted south because of the space the neck takes up. My guess is half the P would be sitting in your DM in standard P placement.

    The closer you get to the bridge the more higher frequencies are accented therefore with a split P the variation due to the off set poles is more pronounced. In theory a reverse P balances that out more but in my experience it depends on the P - no doubt may vary with personal taste.

    Also I'm no luthier so I don't know how recommended a 1/4" of meat would be but without a good bit or if you hit a chink you may just split it out.

    The only hesitation that I'd have about swathing it is it's a two octave bass so the cut out would be smaller than usual. If you're a bridge guy (which from that bass I'm guessing you're not) it wouldn't matter but it would to a neck man. Also, once you get past standard J bridge position tone tends to get pretty useless to solo that pup unless it's a real dark pup.
  5. Correct- I'm not a bridge player particularly. I move closer toward the bridge at times for rock, but regage is definitely neck-land.

    You advice is well-taken, I'm re-considering my pickup choice at this point. Thanks Luknfir.
  6. luknfur


    Jan 14, 2004

    if you're curious in FAQ there's a thread on one of my experiences with the effect of placement on a P pup, maybe in with Dimento's P experiments maybe separate on it's own - one or the other I don't remember.

    Oh yeh, keep in mind being a bridge guy if I say something is bright it's probably way to bright for you and if too dark/muddy, etc. probably more in your direction.
  7. Thanks, I'll go have a look there. And I'll be mindful of our relative references!
  8. Pretty interesting- I'm intruiged with the EB-0 tests. There appears to be one with an EB-0 and a DP, but your remarks are more impressive with some other combos- and the EB-0 solo in particular.

    I'm just looking for some added growl and definition, so maybe the P set up close to the DiMarzio is an ok idea. I like the way it plays in my hands, and I'm not much of a knob twiddler anyway.

    Probably going to rout That universal pocket and start in with some options. Fit the pickguard when it sounds good.

    Thanks for the resource, Luk.
  9. luknfur


    Jan 14, 2004
    EB-O was a long time ago and would have to read the stuff myself. That and T-bird are probably the most popular Gibson pup.

    Another thing to be aware of with the swathing thing is F and G scale string spacing. Fender (F) scale (18/19mm) is standard but the Gibson scale is what I call narrow scale and includes Rics and Starfires. The model 1 looks like G scale so you shouldn't have a problem with F scale pups like you would the reverse. Doesn't matter if the strings align with poles or not in my experience as long as perimeter strings aren't outside the magnetic field.
  10. There you go- now I did have a question about that. You have answered it! Thanks again.
  11. luknfur


    Jan 14, 2004

    I actually installed all schaller roller bridges on my bases to allow for string width adjustment cause the stock Ibe bridges were F spaced. Even that was marginal on some and insufficient on a few - like the neck Ric pup. Narrower spacing is more of an issue with any neck pup cause bridge pups tend to be wider spaced. I eventually set up a narrow scale bass installing a 5 string schaller roller on a 4 string bass (not using one saddle) to allow for adjustment for narrow scale pups - which vary. The 4 string Schaller was good for most narrow scale pups though.

    You shouldn't have to mess with that. Regardless of the pups reading the strings in terms of pole alignment. The Schallers are nice for variable string spacing for technique. Like wider for slap, narrow for picking, or simply to adjust them where it suits your playing style best overall.

    On top of that, the screw hole spacing works out to where I can reinstall the original bridge without screw holes being exposed - looks original.
  12. I have the same bridge on my Peavey Dyna-Bass Unity, and I've set the saddles a bit on the narrow side to more closely match the narrower spacing of the Schecter's bridge. I don't really know what that Schecter bridge is, but the spacing is pretty close- and perfect for me. The poles on the p'ups are a little 'out' now, but it doesn't seem to make any difference, as you mentioned.
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