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Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by DryWater'Bass, Nov 29, 2002.

  1. I wanna know how to replace one of the volumes in my passive bass with a Pan pot...Is it only possible in Active basses? I can't find a good balance between my otherwise(IMO) fairly good sounding(for what they are) pickups...Also...It would require a new Everything to put in Bass/treble and/or a Mid Pot?Right?
  2. embellisher

    embellisher Holy Ghost filled Bass Player Supporting Member

    Maybe a little exposure in the Setup forum will get an answer.
  3. I'm calling Notduane! The master of Pickup wiring diagrams....


  4. Thanks for the move...I didn't know where to put it...So I figured Misc. was the place to put it...The knob would essentially be a variable attenuator...To direct the focus of the signal, correct??A diagram would still be helpful:D

    Also...The Bass/Treble knobs...Would they work at all in a passive bass?
  5. notduane


    Nov 24, 2000
    (thanx loads chief :p )

    this was adapted from one in "Standard Wiring Diagrams (vol 2) -
    Non Active Mid and Bass". top to bottom - blend, mid, bass ...


    according to the author...   (italics are mine)
    i'm assuming you have something like a J bass. your profile doesn't say.

    here's a combination of a couple at GuitarElectronics.com ...


    the "TBX" (tone control) was made for Strats.
    It calls for an 82KΩ resistor and .02&microf cap.
    you may have to fiddle with these values.
  6. jani_bjorklund


    May 22, 2002
    I tried almost each and every wiring mod on my Jazz Bass(series, series/paralell and blend pot) but I have to admit the stock paralell wiring is without doubt the one and only suitable for Jazz Bass. If anyone manages to ruin the stock wiring like I did, creating all the problems you can name, noisy guitar, steaply working volume knobs and a tone control that's not working properly, I decided to submitt a drawing of the stock wiring.
  7. Thanks for the info Notduane...I've looked it over...and really should've mentioned...It's not a J- bass, it's wired Vol-Vol-Tone-Tone...P+J pickups...2 more questions....(I know...You wish i'd just shut up)

    1.If I used a different resistance of pot...Like 250KOhm would it leave me more gain, or something else...

    2.The cap on the knob is to cut off at a certain freq...I want a bass and treble...or a bass/treble stack and a mid...what type of freq ranges should I look @?centerd at 40Hz 250 and 1K?or is it too jammed together??
    40 500 and 2K?
  8. notduane


    Nov 24, 2000
    Actually, i kinda' agree with jani-b. For what you want to do,
    I think your best bet may be to go with an active system.
    Here's a few that should work...

    U Retro
    Seymour Duncan STC-3
    Bartolini HR-4.n series

    Designing passive R-L-C filter networks wasn't my strong suit
    back in tech skrewel :(. Maybe some E.E. TB'rs could chime in?

    Even then, you're just going to get a shelving type or a notch-
    cut filter. With an active system, you'd get cut and boost.

    Could you use an EQ of some kind? say a Boss GEB-7?

    Here's a website that has umpteen variations on passive
    pickup wiring -- http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~dgb/index_e.htm .
    They've even got a "Mid Cut Filter" calculator for a (passive)
    R-C network.
  9. ok...Since that requires more money than I've got...How about a tone for each pickup...a master volume and a pan...

    Still yet...If I used a lower resistance pot(250K 100K) would they give more gain??Or not work at all...
  10. notduane


    Nov 24, 2000
    here's another one -

    * P and J
    * Tone - Tone - Blend - Master Volume


    The "mid-cut" switch / circuitry is based on one of the schematics
    from the DGB site mentioned above, and the stock wiring from
    a Gibson Ripper L9-S.

    In one position, you have a "normal" tone control. In the other,
    the mids are cut but tone's still controlled by the pot. The trick
    here is finding a 500mH coil. You could make one, or get a "grab
    bag" assortment from Radio Shack.

    There IS one thing that can make this whole discussion moot.
    I don't know exactly what kind of bass you have. I'm assuming
    there are 4 back-loaded controls. This may be a problem Re the
    use of pots with a DPDT switch attached. That is, in some basses
    with back-loaded controls you have to use pots with a 3/4"
    bushing vs the usual 3/8" bushing. I ran into this problem when
    I re-wired my yammer BBN4F. I'm sure they're out there, but I
    don't see any pots w/DPDT switchs AND 3/4" bushings from
    Stew-Mac, Discount Guitar Parts, or WD Music Products.

    If you go with this one AND you need the controls with the
    longer bushings, you may have to go with separate switches
    (i.e., two more holes in the control area).

    250KΩ or 500KΩ? It's up to you. I think either would work fine in
    the circuit above. Even though they're humbuckers (usu. 500KΩ ),
    I prefer 250KΩ controls for the DiMarzio pups I've installed in a
    couple basses.

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