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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by smperry, Feb 16, 2010.
That's cool..I like how the body is offset in harmony with the offset of the P pickups!
Unlike jumbodbassman, I generally don't care for the striped Wishbasses. However, I do like yours and think you did a great job with the upper and lower horns, etc.!
i found a picture of two of the bodies. this is all i got right now. these were some of the last so the quality and price where a bit more. $600 each they cost me ( actually 1088 delivered...) others where in the 350-400 range
theses are both fodera knockoffs. a five string monarch bass, and a 4 string imperial. pictures are front and back of each bass. I am not sure i could part with both of these, maybe one but wanted to show what i am talking about. if you guys are interested i will get some photos and info together. he still makes basses but charges well over $1000 and you get brazilian hardware/pups. If i had energy i would finish these and sell them but life is too short.
next one. someone needs to tell me about photobucket....
just heard from steve, says my bass just got back from fret dressing, now it needs to be strung up. please tell me the next step is it being shipped! going on 4 months
Jumbo - Try www.tinypic.com. It's pretty straight-forward and has worked well for me. You basically upload a pic on their site and it produces a line of code to copy and paste into your TB post. Best of luck.
Jim, same for Photobucket.com. You sign up with a user name and password and you're good to go. As you download pix from your computer it assigns each photo various codes to link you to other sites, or wherever. You can just directly import a photo into a TB posting, add verbage and you're done. No limit on space and no reduction of photo size. There is probably more free sites out there too. Good luck.
Can't wait to see a 'proper' photo of that upright 'art' bass!
So I spoke to Steve today and told him I was going to keep the stude and try to repair it myself. He said he would give me a break on my next one, and after playing the stude, that's definitely in my plans.
So here's the story. I glued and clamp the headstock using Titebond III and went out and worked on my car. About 6 hours later, came back home and decided to take the clamps off and take a look. Everything looked solid so I restrung the tuners and started to tune each string up very slowly. Not a creak or squeak. Played it for about an hour, everything held without any cracking or movement. I loosened the strings and am going to let it sit for another 24 hours to let the glue solidify completely. According to Titebond, it's strongest after 24 hours.
So now for the real good news. What an awesome bass. This is my first fret-less, but this takes me back to my trombone days. So much fun to play, and even though I can see lots of opportunity for refin work, the bass plays sweet the way it is.
^See told you it would be easy, although it generally a good idea to not load up a join for at least 12hrs, if not 24hrs! Maybe I'm just conservative?
stop wishing and start GASing!!! LOL
What you need is a SOLID (and very flat) sanding block, made of metal or wood with no soft pad. Like what you'd use for the fingerboard. That will keep the sandpaper from diving into the softer catalpa -- as it would (and apparently has) with a rubber pad behind it.
You're right, I just couldn't help it, I had to try it. Anyway, I did relieve all the string tension off it once I was done and I'm gonna let it set like you suggest.
Btw, anyone out there that may be worried about ordering one of these basses because of the possibility of shipping damage. Steve is a really good guy to deal with. He's been more than accommodating to me and I would without any hesitation order another off him in the future.
Those are nice bodies there Jumbo. If I had the time, I'd love to start a project like that.
Here's my only thought for the day: micromesh is awesome.
Unfortunately had to call it an early day, but CA and micromesh play very well together.
Well, I got her (poplar/maple Stude #0003) out to 2000 grit and it's so shiny and smooth, I thought I'd share these pre-finish shots. This one has got me thinking about just putting on a wax - hmmmmm ...
Fingerboard is jatoba and is sanded out to about 6000 grit with the micromesh pads. The poplar is tricky because it is softer and doesn't want to sand out in the same way as the other harder woods. However, it's advantage is it's light weight. This Stude is going to be a nice gigging bass due to it's low weight.
Need help shielding my swirl,
we're pretty much troglydites here in Ireland regarding sourcing decent
materials- A 12 inch square of copper shielding is 65 euro's,
I'm wondering if Aluminium tape can be used in it's place.
I've measured the resistance of the aly and its roughly 14 ohms
(i know it's 14 to a dc multimeter and the actual impedence will be different)
Am I wasting my time?
Should I bite the bullet and buy the copper foil - it gets the blood all angered up having to pay 1500% more for the copper foil than I should
liltommyg... aluminium foil or tape will work fine. I usually use the tape.
Thank you kindly
I've seen Steve's stuff around here forever. TB and around town.
Played a fretted 6-er ( huge bass ) and several versions of 4s.
I got to meet him yesterday. Nice guy! He seemed to like the junk I build.
Nice. Got me thinking I'd like to meet him too. Have to avoid politics as a discussion topic (surprising that a self-described "old hippie" can wind up ultra-conservative), but most of the other things I've seen him write sound like we'd have a lot to talk about.