Hey guys. I'm in the planning stages of building a stereo 2x12 cab. I know the general approach for a quality, lightweight cab is 1/2" Baltic birch for the body, and 3/4" Baltic birch for the speaker baffle. I'm curious if anyone has any suggestions for another type of wood that could yield better results in terms of light weight and strength. Also, where is a recommended place to get this from? Should I look around for local lumber suppliers? Or should is what they sell at Lowe's/Home Depot quality enough?
Baltic birch = very strong, hard to beat for strength. Apple ply might be stronger. Arauco ply = considerably lighter and still plenty strong for a bass cab (Lowes has it in my area, but not all Lowes carry it) One 1/2" window-pane style brace between the two 12's on a 1/2" thick front baffle = better strength/weight ratio than 3/4" baffle and no brace Partition board between the two 12's = even better than window-pane style brace
I'll definitely look into the Arauco plywood. I was going to go with a dividing board between the two chambers like you were talking about due to one side will be ported, and one side will be sealed.
If you go with Arauco, cherry-pick unwarped sheets. Then I suggest assembling the cab within the next day or two after cutting it. In my experience Arauco is somewhat prone to warping. I built my first dozen or so commercial bass cabs out of Arauco and still use it for protoyping, so it's quite useable even if it warps a bit (screws & clamps can readily overcome the warp), but you might as well make things easy on yourself.
how much lighter is it than using regular baltic birch? and majortoby: wouldn't that be freaking sweet! I'd just need the multi-thousand dollar kiln to cook it in....lol. I have heard of some people using aluminum to make cabs out of.
ah, ok. I may stick to BB, then. this is my first fully custom build, and I'd rather not worry about warping. one other thing I'm curious about, how do I go about translating number from winISD to physical dimensions? things like cubic feet inside the cab, and such, and allowing some extra space for things like handles and dampening material.
about the 2X12 ? I believe that gag was about how a 212 speaker cabinet should be built out of a 2 inch by 12 inch plank. 212 2X12 two by twelve edit: oops sorry, i see you were adressing a question in another post. d'oh!
No, I was curious on how to translate the winISD numbers into measurements to cut the boards to. Good tip for the 20% extra, though. Can this be seconded by anyone else?
20% may be an OK guesstimate with good bracing and multiple drivers, but if you want to be accurate, get the port tuning right, you measure the volume of everything in the cab and subtract it from the gross. That includes the drivers, bracing, ports, cutouts for wheels, anything that takes up space in there. Do not include the lining in this. That doesn't eat into the cab space really.
Hey I just saw you're buiding a "stereo" cabinet? I wouldn't bother with the 12" in stereo, use the 12" just for subs, but you could add the mids and highs in stereo, and just for effects in small clubs. There is something about stereo chorus/phasing/echo that just adds a new dimensions, especially through 0-phase. But it doesn't scale up to med to large venues - IMHO. Check out M/S (Mid/Side) Stereophonics, It works just like the mics but in reverse. In many cases it offers a good wide stereo effect.
what I mean by stereo is that one side would be ported and contain a bass speaker, and the other one would be sealed and contain a guitar speaker. I have two outputs on my bass. one goes to a bass amp that's EQ'd for low frequencies, and the other goes to a tube guitar amp that's EQ'd for mids and highs.