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Wood finish on imperfect wood

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by amkrisis, Oct 2, 2005.


  1. amkrisis

    amkrisis

    Aug 21, 2005
    Hi

    i'm gonna work on this body, but as you can see it has a few darker spots. Is there a way so that i can keep a natural finish but mask away the darkes spots? In other words, can i darken the wood so that the spots don't stand out any more?

    I was thinking shellac? but i'm a total rookie when it comes to this...

    Can someone give me some advice?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. What type of wood is this? It looks as if it's soft and that can be a problem when trying to get an even stain. The softer areas of the the wood soak up the stain faster than the hard areas and get darker. There are wood conditioners that you can pretreat the surface with that will help a lot with that. Areas with a lot of pitch in them might need some special attention to get them to even up with the rest of the body.

    I see another problem and that's the appearance of a coating on the body. If it's sealed up under a finish, it can't be stained. You'll probably have to remove the finish before going further.
     
  3. Phil Mastro

    Phil Mastro

    Nov 18, 2004
    Montréal
    It's pine, isn't it?
     
  4. amkrisis

    amkrisis

    Aug 21, 2005
    yep

    brazilian pine

    any suggestions?
     
  5. Suburban

    Suburban

    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    I take it you don't like the little 'nut' at the control cavity.
    Well, there is no way to stain that away. It may stand out less if you stain the entire body in dark brown, but then you will take away the beauty of the grain, and then you could as well paint it.
    My suggestion is that you maek that nut a feature, something you are proud of.
     
  6. amkrisis

    amkrisis

    Aug 21, 2005
    what type of finnish would you suggest then?
     
  7. Suburban

    Suburban

    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    Just oil.
    My preference is tung oil based danish oil.
    You need to sand pine rather fine, sorry, very fine, and then wetsand after the first oil layer. Otherwise, the wood will rise. Pine is very prone to that... And it's rather porous, so it will suck up a lot of oil :D
     
  8. amkrisis

    amkrisis

    Aug 21, 2005
    just oil? no laquer or anything? how many coats would you suggest?

    And what about shellac?
     
  9. Suburban

    Suburban

    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    Shellac??? Yuck! Hate it! It's very hard to applicate and it's very sensitive to humidity - from hand and forearm, for example.

    No of layers depend heavily on which oil you use. I put on enough, i.e. until the piece soesn't suck any more in. Which with my oil and wood usually stops at 3 to 5 layers. But then, I'm not too concerned about getting everything perfectly smooth. If you wetsand between layers, you may need more layers. And thinner oil, without varnish addition (i.e. non-danish oil), will need more layers.