wood glue types

I use titebond original for everything

 

I like Titebond II, gives me some time to wiggle things around before it sets up.

 

titebond rules!!!

 

I used hide glue for gluing my fretboard, though its not the easiest to use (you have to be fast!). I would have probably used Titebond if anywhere locally had it, though most wood glues would probably work. One advantage of hide is that you can re set it with water if the joint isnt good enough.

 

Here's a great thread about glues. Mikeyswood knows his stuff.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=681465&highlight=wood+glues

 

Gorilla glue is a serious hassle. I tends to foam up about 4x bigger than its initial size and has a tendency to push apart joints. It is also really bad for your skin and respiratory system. It is frustratingly hard to remove excess gorilla glue and took me 2 or 3 days to get it off my skin. I used it on my first bass and wouldn't go near a bass with it again. I have not had any issues with titebond but I would use an epoxy for gluing troublesome woods.

 

Gorilla glue isn't particularly strong even if you get past the pain in the ass factor of using it.

 

I always use a good two-part epoxy resin. I know Titebond is what everyone uses and I'm sure it's great but in the interest of over-engineering everything two part epoxys are best.

 

And whats your proof to back up that statement?

 

+++1 on what Mikey said in the post JW referenced. As a chemist, Mikey knows his s**t about these things. I pretty much just use two glues in my shop: Titebond and CA. CA I use for chips, nuts and frets. For gluing wood to wood, I use titebond, most recently the III variety. I have seen some complain they get a more obvious glue line with titebond but I don't see it. And it is easy to clean up and work with.

Regarding Gorilla glue, I have seen pieces joined with it break along the glue line. Not with titebond. Very unscientific, I know, but "clinical" experience is worth something, no?

 

I've used gorilla glue a lot lately and have yet to break the joint along the glue line.

http://www.ricktoone.com/2009/02/index.html
Article on the bottom of the page offers a differing view to your experience.


And more good reading. http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infadh/infadhe.html

 

Thanks for the props guys. Good to know the info gets used.

Have you noticed any movement in service? The one instrument that I made with TbIII had the wings move after 48 hours.

 

Yikes. No movement as yet and I have been using III in a variety of situations / applications for the past two years. Applications would include chair construction and repair as well as other weight-bearing projects.

Edit: I should add that I live in Austin where we have pretty big swings in humidity and temperature often within 12 hour periods.

 

I've done some "testing" in the past with different glues... bonding scrap wood together and then separating with chisel, shearing, twisting etc.. IMHO Gorilla glue is a waste of my money. Sure my tests weren't very scientific but then I also don't need to run lab tests on dog excrement to know that it's crap.

 

Several of the woodworking magazines (Wood, Fine Woodworking) have done their versions of "scientific" tests to determine the relative strength of various types of glues. Bear in mind that they are primarily concerned with bonding wood to wood. In their tests PVA, epoxy and even hide glues came out as "stronger" than poly glues (i.e. Gorilla).

I'll agree with what others have said that foaming poly glues have been a hassle from my experience. I can't say I've ever had a joint fail in any project I've ever done no matter what glue was used, so I'm sure for most "normal" applications poly or PVA will be adequate (assuming your jointery is adequate). I pretty much just use TB now, though.

 

Not only from past experience but from an article in Fine Woodworking where a comparative study was done on the different types of glue used in woodworking

 

About Gorilla glue. If sales have been slow and you need shoes Bare feet + Gorilla Glue + sawdust = instant shoes true story.......well sort of an accident several years ago.

 

Is TBIII more flexible since it is designed to be used outdoors? I always use TBI because I assume that waterproof and outdoor glues are designed to allow some amount of flexibility to counteract whatever moisture they come in contact with. To me TBI seems to glue harder than the others. Am I the only one?