Woods and their properties.....

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by Soapbox Prophet, Aug 1, 2001.

  1. My new bass is made out of ash....in comparison to other woods what are the properties of it? ive noticed a nice midrange and warm low end, and its very very light....but what are the advantages of maple or mahogany? what does fender use typically?
  2. barroso


    Aug 16, 2000
    this is a wonderful site full of info on woods, necks, and a loto f other things. it's the site of italian manifacturer Frudua. surf on it and you'll find what you search.

  3. rickbass

    rickbass Supporting Member

    Here's some that break it down by individual specie with pictures -

    - www.kensmithbasses.com (look for "woods" link)

    - www.mtdbass.com/html/qfortone.html (some of the best info you can find, IMO)

    - www.electricbass.ch/dateien/hoelzer.html

    - www.edenhaus.com/woods.htm

    The tonal characteristics of your ash body depends on which kind of ash it is. Swamp ash is the most desireable for basses - great mids, good low end, lots of "bite" You'll see it and the other woods you asked about at these sites.

    Fender started out with ash for their basses then switched to poplar. After that, it becomes a mess to me, with all the reissues and different owners of the company over time.
  4. Thanks so much rickbass....thats exactly what i was looking for. I think whenever I can set aside enough cash I am going to try to build my own bass....or i might get a carvin bass kit. I think it'd be more fun though to make one out of warmoth parts.
  5. rickbass

    rickbass Supporting Member

    I agree. The Warmouth components let you be more creative whereas the Carvin is more of a "paint by numbers" kit. The only thing that scares me about these kits, (aside from my totally lacking mechanical skills), is the finishing;

    - If I'm not mistaken, Carvin only offesr alder and swamp ash bodies, so I'd definitely want to stain it. If I screwed up the stain, I'd have to be sanding my heinie off, since you don't have any wood scraps to test with.

    - If I was putting on a poly coating, I might get it too thick and stifle the tonal properties of the wood.

    However, maybe you're good with tools and such. You'll probably learn a bit about what to look for in an instrument, construction-wise
  6. I'm almost done with my project P Bass. I'm waiting for the pickguard to come from Warmoth. Here's what I got so far. A Swamp Ash top route P Body from the Warmoth thrift shop for $149. One of those Maple/maple necks that are on ebay all the time from a shop called Magic Dragon. I got this one for $70. A Gotoh 201 and Seymour Duncan Qtr Pndr and neck plate, screws, strap buttons etc from Warmoth. I got tuners, pots already wired together and knobs from ebay (all Magic Dragon) and a white pearl pickguard from ebay (Mag. Drag.) This pickguard is whacked and I wasted $25 on it. The routes for the pickup are out of line with the rest of the bass. I ordered one from Warmoth for $36 + $8 UPS, but at least it will be right. I have it all assembled and waiting for the pickguard, so I can solder my connections and see what I got sound and playability wise. Even strung up and unplugged, it sounds and feels OK. I'll play it unfinished for a little while and then take it apart and finish it as a natural. I've been studying the Guitar Reranch web site and even though the whole Nitrocellulose process is expensive and time consuming, I'm convinced it's worth the effort.
    The people at Warmoth are super helpful on the phone and they know exactly what they are talking about. Check out their web site thrift shop and look at the bass bodies. There's a Tele style body routed for a MM pup. That looks like a cool project to me.
  7. barroso


    Aug 16, 2000
  8. If I wanted to make a bass with a Jazz body (all from Warmoth) what wood should I use for good mids, accentuated highs, and almost punchy low end. O and could I get a neck with a headstock that looks like an Ernie Ball one?