1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  

Workingman's 4x10T - upgrade tweeter & bracing ?s

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by jwendt99, May 9, 2005.

  1. jwendt99


    Oct 20, 2004
    Northern CA
    I'm starting a new thread on this.

    I have a SWR WM 4x10T cabinet with a blown tweeter. My questions are:

    1) Would it be worth the extra effort to put in a Peerless 811647 tweeter (and 24 dB/oct crossover & L-Pad), rather than just pop in another LeSon TLX-1 piezo tweeter? Will the Peerless tweeter make a noticable different in the quality of sound from this cab?

    2) Should I put some extra bracing inside the cabinet around where the tweeter cut-out is? The Peerless tweeter requires a noticeably larger hole in the center of the speaker mounting board on the front of cabinet. I would think that this would weaken the center of that board that already has cutouts for the four 10" speakers. I can think of two ways to do this - either
    a) cut and attach another piece of plywood to double the thickness of the center area of the speaker board (the tweeter hole goes through both pieces of plywood - or
    b) run some oak 1x2 boards from the front of the cabinet near the tweeter to the back of the cabinet - either diagonally from the almost-center of the front board to the outside edges of the rear board - or just straight from front board to back board.

    What do you think? Any advice or other ideas on this?

    Thanks a bunch,
  2. Blues Bass 2

    Blues Bass 2 Supporting Member

    Oct 3, 2001
    Davenport Iowa
    Yes,the tweeter mod would sound better.I modified a Workingmans 212 cabinet with a Foster tweeter,Eden crossover and Eminence Kappa 12s a few years ago and changing the tweeter made a big difference,even with just the Foster.The bracing would also be a good idea.I've added extra braces to my Avatar Neo 410 using just 2x2 pine braces on either side of the tweeter front to back.Stiffens up the front baffle and the back of the box considerably.When adding bracing you can tap on the cabinet and listen for the lowest sounding panel and then brace it some how.The Idea is to make the panels resonate at a higher frequency than you're bass notes so the cabinet itself does'nt change the tone.After you add the bracing tap on the side again and the tap should sound higher.Good luck.
  3. Joe Beets

    Joe Beets Guest

    Nov 21, 2004
    I've gone through this process on a few of my bass cabinets over the years. Here is what worked for me. First remove the grille, cabinet back or the speaker so you can get access to both sides of the tweeter mounting hole. Cover the front side of the hole with masking tape streched nice and tight. Then put a piece of stiff cardboard about half an inch bigger than the hole over the first layer of masking tape and tape it down firmly around the edges. Then lay the cabinet face down. Fill the tweeter hole up with auto body filler (Bondo). Be sure not to push it in too hard or it will make the front (with the cardboard) bulge out and you will have to sand it down later to get it flat. Don't worry about getting the back real flat because nobody will see it anyway. After the putty is good and hard, remove the tape from the front surface. There may be some small lines from where the tape overlapped. If so. sand lightly and apply another thin layer of putty to smooth it up. Then spray paint the area to match the color. Here is the fun part. Find someplace like the edge of a large ravine or even a riverbank and throw that tweeter as hard as you can. Your bass will sound better than it ever did before. No more thin, twangy, guitar-like sound ever again. ;)

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.