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Would car subwoofers work in a bass cabinet?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by ardorx, Oct 19, 2004.


  1. ardorx

    ardorx

    Sep 23, 2004
    Sugar Land, TX
    Hey, I was wondering if I could use 4-10 inch Audiobauhn subwoofers to replace the current ones in my cabinet. I totalled my car, and have no use for them as of now, and I was wondering if that would work. If you've tried this or know wheather this would work or not, please let me know. Thanks.
     
  2. You cannot. Your bass amplifier probably can't operate at below 4 owhms impedance, or electrical resistance. Bass guitar speakers have ohm ratings and the cabinet also has an ohm rating. The 4 OEM drivers probably create an 8 ohm load. It is possible it is a 4 ohm, but I doubt it. 4 car subs will make your bass amp likely see 1/4-1/3 ohms resistance. You will overheat and kill your amp and the sound will be compressed and horrible.

    Car subs are also designed for specific frequency ranges, like 20hz to 150hz so your bass will sound like it is inside a coffin or vault or something. And they are enclosure-specific. They require tunign paramaters to operate, whether ported, sealed, bandpass or whatever.

    Don't do it. You could try it with one car driver if it is an 8 ohm driver. But what is the point. Eminence makes a nice cheap 10" bass guitar speaker. But you need to load them in a tuned enclosure or perfectly sealed 410 cab.
     
  3. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

    Sep 7, 2000
    Chicago
    Would it work...sure. Would it sound good as a stand alone...probably not.

    Most Car Audio woofers are 4 ohms. Wiring four of them series/parallel (two series connected pairs wired in parallel) would yield a 4 ohm cabinet. Most amps are fine with a 4 ohm load. Your existing 4x10 is probably either 8 ohms or 4 ohms (probably 8).

    As Angelopb wrote, autosound woofers have limited high end response. The cabinet would sound very dark. Car audio woofers are also horribly inefficient, so the cabinet wouldn't be very loud.

    Tuning is another potential problem. Without knowing the Thiele-Small parameters of the woofers and the volume and tuning frequency of the cabinet, one could only guess at the frequency response, etc. of your reloaded 4x10.

    Your best bet would be to sell of the autosound woofers and if you need new 10s in your bass cabinet, buy some good quality 10s that will work well in your existing cabinet. Or sell the autosound speakers and your 4x10 and get a different bass cabinet.

    If you need help, we're all very experienced and helping fellow bassists spend all of their money! :D
     
  4. msquared

    msquared

    Sep 19, 2004
    Kansas City
    This is the real issue. The other stuff can be worked around fairly easily. But since your box isn't built to match the drivers you'll be putting into them it probably won't sound nearly as good as the cab did when it was new.

    FWIW I built a box with a Soundstream sub as a driver and no tweeter. Having a crossover and a tweeter would have helped, but it did really well by itself. It really depends on the driver you're going to use. I wouldn't build something using Pyles for instance, but a lot of the stuff nowadays can pull double duty in applications outside of the vehicle without breaking a sweat.
     
  5. Yeah, But a sub needs to play in a limited bandwidth. Auto subs are designed to sound good in a car, not bloom or project in a room. I do not think my a/d/s/ 10 in my car is going to make my hair stand if I played my bass through it in a cafe. Though it definetly does in my car.

    I have a sealed JL Audio sub in the closet. The old a/d/s smokes this thing in a .7 ported shoeboxed-size box. I will slave it off my Eden combo and let you guys know. I am going to have to get a phone plug or speakon or something. But that is a 4 ohm woofer. And Eden claims this CVC110 combo is stable to 2 ohms. So I will do it, if anythng to reaffirm how crappy 2ohms sounds full range.

    I'll let you guys know.
     
  6. luknfur

    luknfur

    Jan 14, 2004
    DIXIE
    FWIW:

    Off hand I would say no but don't know that you have much to lose by trying it as long as the resistance is appropriate.

    I did pull an article on-line where a guy used a car audio speaker for a small custom cab he built. He wanted something light, portable, with decent sound but didn't need a lot of output - may have been for an URB.

    This guy knew his stuff and had diagrams, material list, parameters, the whole shmear. If it wasn't a Pyle speaker he used it did begin with a P. He may have had a tweeter as well. At anyrate, seems I recall him stating that car audio speakers where actually quite suitable for his application for bass.

    FWIW: Peerless was the maker of the speaker.
     
  7. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    And I'm not talking about how you treat your ladies. All of you are correct about response and impedance issues, but far more important is the fact that home/autosound drivers run about 10-15dB less sensitive than pro-sound drivers. Not only would he not have any midrange response and would probably toast his amp's output stage, he also wouldn't be heard.
     
  8. ardorx

    ardorx

    Sep 23, 2004
    Sugar Land, TX
    wow guys, thanks for all the info. It was just an idea, and I guess it's out of the question now. I think I'll sell them and get a 15 or 2x10 cab. right now, my current rig is ok, but it's not the greatest. It's a Genz-Benz Live ls410, Behringer bx3000 head, and Fender american p-bass. Lately, my genz has been sounding crappy. I don't know why, I'm thinking one of the speakers are blown. But yeah, thanks again.
     
  9. ardorx

    ardorx

    Sep 23, 2004
    Sugar Land, TX
    In the simplest form, all I'm looking for is more low end, at a cheap cost. If you have any suggestions, please post. I'm thinking about getting a 2x10 or a 15.