Hi, I am the proud owner of a Warwick Corvette standard 5 active with a bubinga body. I played several in the store and picked the one I liked best. The action was way too high for me but there was just something about this one that felt right. Anyway, I got home and called up the Gary Willis setup site, determined that I would do all the work to this bass myself. I am more than capable of doing this ( I build race motors for my drag bike, so how hard can a guitar be...?). So here's what I have done so far. 1 Check neck relief:0.85mm with feeler gauges (capoed at !st fret and held down at 24th fret on B string) 2 Lower bridge plate to get the following string heights at the 12th fret: B2.27mm E2.4mm A2.17mm D1.82mm G1.52mm. Because I lowered the bridge plate I have avoided messing with individual string heights and therefore the radius of the strings across the bridge is left as set at the factory. As I understand it the factory do a pretty good job of this anyway. 3 Lower the bass side of the pick ups because the bass string output was hotter than the treble output (on the VU meter on my amp-Ashdown ABM500Evo2) PUP Height: Neck- B String 5 mm G String 2 mm Bridge B String 2 mm G String 1 mm I know I am getting there with my setup, but my B string buzzes slightly above the 12th fret (I've never had a 5 before, do you play there anyway?), and according to my VU meter the bass strings are still hotter than the treble strings. Would this be because of the way my amp is eq'd? (guitar set flat). Are you supposed to use a volt meter or ammeter to get an equal output from all the strings, and if so what would be the allowable tolerance between strings? Can anyone see anything that I have done horrendously wrong? Thanks for reading my ramblings-any advice, hints or insults if constructively phrased, gratefully received.