I am wondering how the group glues thin veneers in between tops. I have a walnut body Tele style guitar I am building in my shop currently with some other basses and I have the guitar body chambered and I am gluing a thin black dyed poplar veneer to the bottom of a bubinga top and I bookmatched the bubinga top first and glued it together and sanded smooth. The glued on the veneer to the bubinga top and sandwiched between my router table and MDF with vertical 2”x4” beams clamped it down. It was insanely tight but after I un clamped it there is wrinkles in the poplar. I think I probably used too much glue and it just expanded. I did use Titebond 3 because I wanted time to get everything together and wanted the longer tac time and also I need it to be flexible because I have an arm contour on the body and I need it to bend to clamp down. The Titebond 3 has more water in it than the original so that is all I can think of is that it was too wet with wet glue. I normally use vulcanized black dyed fiberboard and of course never experienced this before. I do veneers on headstocks all the time with no issues. This really sucks I hope as it dries completely I hope it goes down a little but my fear is I ruined a $100 bubinga top and the veneer of course. There is a possibility if here is space under the wrinkles to slice with razor blade and re glue and clamp again. I can post pictures later but I am distraught to say the least.. It would be great to hear other methods that are tried and true for adding the veneers and gluing them without wrinkles and also if anyone has any suggestions on how to remedy other than what I have thought of already would be greatly appreciated. Thanks…face in hand.