Baltic Birch Grades

Should probably call the place you are buying from and ask them. But here's a glossary: http://www.tradewood.co.uk/media/a8eb56d38238402db2511b517bdf0301glossary of terms.pdf

 

Here is some information on grading. There are two faces, front and back. BB/CP is the grade front and back. Baltic birch is void free because the inside laminates are a single piece.

I like baltic birch and I prefer to use it over other products. The problem that I find is that can warp. Maybe it is just the humidity where I live. When buying wood, it is better if you can pick out the pieces that you want to make sure that they are straight. I find that if I keep it standing up against a flat surface it stores better than lying down.

 

It sounds like you are good to go. All baltic birch is void free and that's what you are looking for.

The quality of the outside pieces varies with the grade. With a top grade, the wood surface looks clean. As the grade goes down so does the number of allowable small knots in the wood and oval patches where they cut something out and fixed it. For furniture where the wood grain is exposed, you want a clean look. If the ply that is going to be covered, a lower quality isn't an issue. In general, you pay for what you get. The top quality wood costs more.

I would look at the price differences and decide which makes most sense for your project. If price isn't an issue, I usually get the best quality. But a higher grade is not going to make a difference in terms of internal wood vibrating. The inside layers are all the same.

Also who you are buying the product matters. Is the wood certified baltic birch or a knockoff. Is the wood stored inside a warehouse or is it frozen out in a yard.

 

Those are nice prices.
Much higher here in Sacramento.

 

I still have a large stock of 3/8", but very low on 1/2".
Your prices are what I paid several years back, much higher now.

The 3/8" is great fun to work.
A bit of extra bracing work is a small price to pay for the weight reduction.

I still have several sheets of 3/4" BB, but those are too heavy for cabs.
They will probably go down as new bathroom floor.

 

If the wood looks nice, why not just stain it or something? A beat up natural wood cab still looks pretty cool. Beat up tolex looks like hell (as my old ACC 106 will attest to).

 

If you're concerned at all about warping or delamination, please move to exterior grade. From there is the outside ply finish grade, and how many "footballs" you're willing to accept. Cabinet grade being the highest for outer face ply, of course.

 

I coated my project with Herculiner. Similar to Dura-Tex. Worked fine. $30 dollars for a quart can at the local auto parts store. The can had enough for three coats plus.