Replace stock Fender MIM bridge with Wilkinson, other brand - or leave it alone?

I switched to the threaded rod saddles on a couple of basses due to my death grip playing style kept sliding the stock saddles around. With the threaded rod saddles you can adjust your string width so you can line up the strings with the magnets, and it also serves to push the two outermost saddles into the two inner units, so when tuned to pitch, things stay where they should. I still occasionally slide it around a little, but not nearly liuke I did with the stock MIM saddles.

I recently fell for one of my basses that was on the bubble for a while but after using it a few times it is the one I'm taking with me when I go somewhere and it's got a mongrel MIM L plate with threaded rod saddles. I've got a babicz bridge for it, but I've just been too busy to get to it as I will take the whole thing apart, clean it up good, do a complete IRAN, then put it back together with some new strings and a fresh set up. i'm thinking I might just pass on the babicz this time and put it back in the parts box.

 

Consider these questions....don't answer it here, just consider your answer for yourself: Why would you need to change it? Is it insufficient in some way? If so, why does it matter? You will find your own answer. Your answer is what matters.

 

There is not much difference between the bridges you consider. That said, the stock Fender bridge works wonderfully and is in zero danger of simply breaking or some other catastrophe that doesn't involve the player loosening the screws.

 

Ain't nothing wrong with that MIM Bridge,waste of time, money to change it out..IMO

 

The bridge of any Fender Bass I've owned (except the Musicmaster) were replaced with a Badass II. They served me well and never disappointed. And the screws line up perfectly in the holes left by the crappy stock Fender bridge.

 

If it's between those two, I suggest just leaving it as it is. If you want a fancier bridge, there are a lot better ones to choose from.

 

Why would you replace it with the same bridge? Lol

 

What was better about the BAII?

 

I replaced the stock bridge on a MIM Jazz soon after I bought new in 2005. I hated the way the saddles of the stock bridge moved sideways and didn't feel solid as I played it.
I replaced it with a BA II. I don't think it made much difference to the sound, but it sure is more solid.
I have the same style bridge as the standard MIM bridge on other basses and haven't had the same problem.

 

The name

 

This is exactly what led me to this thread. The vertical screws on my (~ year 2000) MIM Fender Jazz bass' bridge saddles do not stay put. When I play, the string goes flat within the first 2-3 minutes of playing. The problem began with the G string saddle about 6 months ago. I tackled that issue with a dab of clear fingernail polish on the top of the saddle/screw. It stays put now, but when I need to adjust it, I'll have to 'break the seal' adjust and then reapply the fingernail polish. Now, my E string saddle is exhibiting the same issue. I keep a 1/16th inch allen wrench next to me when I practice now to 'fix the E.' This isn't "total BS" to be sure and I don't want to have to use clear fingernail polish on all 4 saddles.
What you would do in this situation?

 

This problem is actually a sign of well formed CLEANLY CUT THREADS.

Take the offending screws out. Lightly knick the threads with needle nose pliers; don't destroy them, just lightly deform a few threads in the middle of the screw. This will make it bite into the saddle threads and prevent unwanted rotation.

 

@96tbird
Ok, I'm going to assume two things here:

1. You're not joking.
2. You've done this before.

Sounds like it would work...

 

This will work. Except instead of knicking the threads...remove the screws, apply a thin lengthwise stripe of "Loctite 242" (blue) or "Vibratite" (red) and allow to dry completely. Re install screws. They should now be snug but adjustable, the compound can be removed later with thinner if needed (hard to remove the knicks).

EDIT: If you use the Loctite it will wick around the threads and turn the whole screw blue unless you allow it to thicken for a few hours on saran wrap. Better to apply Loctite to female threads inside the saddles (or use the Vibratite product on the screws).

 

Dan Smith, then the VP of R.& D. at Fender, when I sent him a bridge said, and I quote, "The guitar doesn't sound like a Fender anymore."

I put one of these bridges on a late "90's" Fender Am. J/Deluxe F/L. Absolutely no question this changed the sound considerably, anyone that heard that Axe agreed.

 

Interesting. My CIJ Classic 70's P has a SPB-3 pickup, CTS pots, exposed brass saddle bridge, and still sounds very much like a Fender.

 

The only significant drawback to the stock bridge is that the saddles can move side to side, especially of you play hard. Many of the "upgrades" have grooves that the saddle height screws rest in to prevent this kind of movement. The stock bridge is not flimsy junk - it performs the function quite adequately.

 

They're getting a bad rap for no reason.