Danelectro bridge "downgrade" (installing an old-style bridge with rosewood saddle)

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by daveman50, Nov 29, 2014.

  1. daveman50

    daveman50 Supporting Member

    Feb 24, 2007
    Albany NY
    I have a couple of Danelectro basses: a reissue Longhorn with the old-style bridge (with the rosewood saddle), and a reissue "Dano 63" short-scale with the new-style bridge (adjustable metal saddles). The relative merits of these two bridges have been debated, but I prefer the old-style bridge. Aside from the looks (authentic), it sounds better, has a better break angle, and won’t rattle.

    I bought a replacement old-style bridge to install on the "63." This is not a drop-in replacement, but only one hole needs to be redrilled to make it work.

    Dano bridges are attached to the body with ONE wood screw. The front of the bridge sits on top of two wood screws, which are for height adjustment. Those screws don't go through the holes in the front of the bridge plate; the holes are there so you can get the screwdriver in for adjustment. It's a very funky, low-tech design. (Also, the ground wire runs to the lower of these 2 screws.)

    The new-style bridges have the 2 adjustment screws in front, as well as individually-adjustable saddles. (I guess you could call it a double-adjustable bridge.) (By the way, the saddle of the old-style bridges is adjustable – the saddle is attached to the base plate with a screw, from the underside, in a slot, so you can move the saddle front to back, a little, and angle it.)

    The new-style bridge is about 5/16 longer than the old bridge. To maintain the correct scale length, don't move the two front adjustment screws. I dowelled the existing mounting hole, using an appropriately low-tech material (take-out chopstick, sanded to diameter -- a maple dowel would’ve created bad karma with the Masonite). I located the position of the new hole by placing the bridge atop the two adjustment screws. It will be about 1/8" forward of the original hole. Drilling into the top is alarmingly easy -- I don’t know what wood is under the Masonite, but it is soft. Mark your drill bit so you don’t come out the other side. Once the bridge was installed, the old hole was covered by the bridge.

    Now I’m happy. Looks good, sounds better. Here’s a before and after shot. You can see how much smaller the old-style bridge is; the two adjustment screws on the front were not moved.
    WP_20141127_0101.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2014
    CatSquare and mcgreivey like this.
  2. msb

    msb

    Jul 3, 2002
    Halifax,N,S. Canada
    I like those old style wooden bridges , there's something about the sound . Surprisingly I made some very slight adjustments on mine and found the sweet spot for it . Haven't had to touch it since and that was more than ten years ago . That Dano has become my primary instrument . One of the most stable necks I own , the only thing that's as stable is an old 4001 . The rest of my instruments require the usual seasonal adjustments . That Dano neck doesn't seem to move .
     
  3. I know this is a very old post, but I'm about to install one of these bridges on a short scale fretless I'm making - did you cut slots in the rosewood or are the strings just laying on top of it?
     
  4. Hopkins

    Hopkins Supporting Member Commercial User

    Nov 17, 2010
    Houston Tx
    Owner/Builder @Hopkins Guitars
    The strings just lay over the top of the rosewood. At least that is true for the guitar version of this same bridge.
     
    daveman50 likes this.
  5. Cool, thanks, in the above pictures it sure looks like they are just laying over top (and the OP doesn't mention slotting).
     
  6. I have had both on several Dano's and I like the sound of the rosewood saddle. The only problem with that design is the bridge plate will buckle and bow downward over time from the string pressure. I've had it happen to a couple of mine.
     
  7. I had that happen to, so I removed it, straightened it the best I could, and then drilled a hole toward the front between the A and D string. Stuck it on, marked a spot in the body that lines up with the hole, removed it, drilled the body, the added a woos screw. After I put it back together and set it up I raised the new screw so it touched the bottom of the bridge and it adds support to keep it from buckling. My Granddaughter has it now and its holding up fine, and I did this about 3 years ago.
     
    electracoyote likes this.
  8. Yeah, that's a great fix. I need to get around to it someday.
     
  9. daveman50

    daveman50 Supporting Member

    Feb 24, 2007
    Albany NY
    OP here. No slotting! The strings sit on top of the saddle, and I've never noticed any movement while playing.

    By the way - be aware, there are two different types of Dano bass bridges with rosewood saddles. The one pictured above on my bass is the reissue type, where the ball ends of the strings feed through holes in the back of the bridge plate. The vintage-style bass bridges have grooves for each string behind the saddle, and the ball end catches along the back edge of the bridge plate - like this:
    Vintage-style Dano bass bridge.jpg
    I have found these vintage-style bridges a little trickier to use, FWIW.
     
  10. I have the one with the holes.

    One other question - how much space is under the front edge of the bridge? I've got my pickup route done to a standard 5/8" depth and it looks like I need to go deeper unless the front edge of that bridge is elevated a bit. Just wondering how far up it is on a Danelectro, it will give me a good idea whether I need to go deeper or not. It would be a lot easier to go deeper now than when I've got it all done :-D