Headstock Hole; to ream or not?

Just for the record, you have your crustaceans confused: That's @LowEndLobster.

 

I haven’t seen the ferrule, but if it’s like the Fender ones I used on my recent build, then it will have splines around it to help it grip the wood. If you file it down you may lose them, and so it may not grip so well - and also, is the diameter inside the splines small enough to fit the holes?

 

Ok dude, this picture really made me laugh!

 

I definitely recommend enlarging the holes for your new tuning machine ferrules. A couple of years ago I built a P bass with a roasted maple neck. Great look and feel. However, when I pressed in the first ferrule, I didn’t realize the wood was more dense than a regular maple neck and it caused a split between the first and second tuner holes in the neck. I did repair the crack with cyanoacrylate (super) glue to stop any further movement. I definitely recommend using a Dremel tool or something similar to enlarge the tuner holes before installing new ferrules.

 

Oops, thanks for the correction.

 

I'm not a pro by a long shot, but I have been doing minor things since the 70's. I have personally NOT hado good success using a long taper hand reamer to widen tuner holes, I did OK, but was never able to get them completely straight, so I'd just say be careful if you go that route.

 

If Hipshot offers a suitable 5/8” o.d. ferrule then order one. There’s no solution that’s better.

 

Is that taper going to be a problem? I'm not so sure that is a good solution. If you've done this before on thick materials, I'd like to know how it worked out. That particular reamer is best suited for sheet metal.

Without buying an expensive reamer, one could take a properly sized drill bit, using a t-handle, turn the drill by hand into the hole, halfway through. Turn the bass over and repeat on the other side, preventing any tear out.

 

It was just an example photo, to explain a longer taper compared to the shorter taper reamers -

I never said "Buy this specific reamer..."

 

That's awesome! Glad I could help, and thanks to @LowEndLobster for making me aware of the adapters.

I kinda wish Hipshot would just have you choose the right ones from the get-go. I think I'm the proud owner of 8 of the wrong size adapters at this point...

 

No, but the reamer you pictured, long or short taper is unsuited to the job. This reamer is better suited for this job. I believe this is a chucking reamer. This or a hand reamer is what I would use, unless I had a 11/16" drill bit and t-handle.

 

Sometimes you can just use the existing bushings. If so, it’s much safer. Removal of existing bushings can sometimes take some wood with them.

 

I would use something with more taper to it. Stew-Mac sells one for end pin jacks (on acoustic guitars) but it only goes up to 1/2" diameter. There's cutting teeth only on one side, and it cuts super cleanly.

Screenshots from an old project I kind of bailed on... https://www.talkbass.com/threads/peavey-frankencirrus-mod-thread.1458621/page-4#post-23999955

 

Okay, I'll refrain from commenting in the future. Understood.

 

You’ve already found the right solution for this particular problem, but just for the record, a hole can also be cleanly enlarged with a router if the diameters permit. Drill the correct hole in a piece of MDF, clamp it down concentric to the original hole, and open it up with a template-following bit.

 

Come on man, it's not like that. But people are visual creatures. I'll have a whiskey and play some bass in your honor tonight.

 

A long fluted tapered reamer can be used, but it's essential to tip it on an angle so that the cutting flute sits flush with the edge. Pushing only on the cutting side while turning it will shave the sides of the hole off cleanly and you can shave down 1/32" around it in no time. I agree you can't use it perpendicular or it will cut a tapered hole, but used in the manner described, it's quick and clean.

 

We've gone over Tuner Bushing Hole Reaming Techniques in great detail in many other threads in the past. There are many ways to do it, most of them will work okay with a little patience and care. Some are dangerous (to the headstock).

In my shop, I use special short straight reamers made the for the job. They cut quickly and clean, with no danger of splitting the headstock. I machine them up myself from stainless steel bar stock. A simple design, easy to make if you have access to a mill and a lathe. I've made up about ten of them for different sizes of Luthier jobs.





The pilot section fits in a standard size hole, and the teeth ream it to a specific diameter. The teeth only cut forward, not outward. There is no taper. This type of reamer can be machined directly from mild steel or stainless steel. This older one is made from O-1 Tool Steel, which is unnecessary. I make most of them these days from 304 stainless steel. No hardening or grinding needed. I hand cut the back relief on the teeth with a small file.