New Project - Compact 215 under 50lbs

[joshsmog]

cool, im building a 215 cab too. its huge though i think its going to weigh alot, i still havent got the speakers in it and its pretty heavy.

 

[bgavin]

Two 1x15 weigh less individually, and are easier to move around.

 

[Nightbass]

Thanks. I used 3/4" plywood. It is very sturdy and when I play, if I touch the cab, it is not vibrating. Which of course is why I chose that thickness.

But now I am wondering if I could have gotten away with 5/8" plywood. It's just 1/8" thinner, but that should probably shave off about 6lbs, maybe keeping it around 60lbs.

Most definitely. Eden, for one, has long been using 5/8" ply for all of their cabs, even the 410 and 215. Well-thought-out bracing makes them very rigid. The baffles are 3/4", though.

Likewise, if you go with a lighter density ply such as Italian Poplar, then there's a few more pounds of weight saved there.

 

[Gabu]

Two 1x15 weigh less individually, and are easier to move around.

Yep, that is true. But there is something kind of cool about a 215 cab. I would have liked to build one with a towel bar handle, and big wheels to roll it on when it's tipped back, similar to my Ampeg 1540he, but without the 177lbs. I wasn't sure if I could get all the cuts right though.

Thanks for your advice on those speakers, too. I am thinking of picking up a pair to try them out.

 

[Gabu]

cool, im building a 215 cab too. its huge though i think its going to weigh alot, i still havent got the speakers in it and its pretty heavy.

Cool man. Good luck!! Upload some pics while you are working on it.

 

[BillyB_from_LZ]

Gabu, 5/8 would be a good choice. Goliath IIs are made of 5/8 and they're plenty solid.

Since so much material is removed from the baffle, I'd probably keep it 3/4.

My Home Depot doesn't carry 5/8...just 1/2 and 3/4. In fact, I had a heck of a time when looking for 5/8 and never did come up with any... Then I had a change in plans and bought a couple emptly Avatar cabinets.

Another weight savings technique would be to do what Avatar does...dado and rabbet every joint so you don't have to use cleats...

 

[BillyB_from_LZ]

The cab is pretty short for a towel bar handle, unless the mover is of small stature...

You could get one of those extending handles from Parts Express and use that...

Don't worry about not getting the angled panels perfect...a belt sander can fix a multitude of woodworking sins

 

[BillyB_from_LZ]

I agree that there's something special about a 2x15...perhaps it's because my first real bass cabinet was a 2x15 (actually it was a homebuilt 4x10 made with hi-fi woofers (BIC Venturi) but no ported box or tweeter...it was '75 and "I" could have started the 4x10 revolution).

Speaking of 2x15s...this auction is killing me...especially because I live about 1000 miles from Rhode Island and can't pick them up...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10171&item=3717439891&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Gabu, if you built another small 2x15, you could locate the port in the center like the Acoustic 406 and use 5/8 for the baffle too...

 

[Gabu]

I agree that there's something special about a 2x15...perhaps it's because my first real bass cabinet was a 2x15 (actually it was a homebuilt 4x10 made with hi-fi woofers (BIC Venturi) but no ported box or tweeter...it was '75 and "I" could have started the 4x10 revolution).

Speaking of 2x15s...this auction is killing me...especially because I live about 1000 miles from Rhode Island and can't pick them up...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10171&item=3717439891&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Gabu, if you built another small 2x15, you could locate the port in the center like the Acoustic 406 and use 5/8 for the baffle too...

Wow, someone is going to get a great deal on those cabs!! Good idea on the center shelf, it will make it look vintage too. Sheesh Billy, you built your first cab when I was four years old.

 

[erik_hammarlund]

Ply is wierd stuff. It's not especially stiff for the weight, nor especially strong--it's just uniform, that's all.

I have occasionally thought that if you had a good workshop (better than most of us own) you could make a REALLY great box. You would edge glue 3 or 4" wide 1/4 or 5/16 boards of something strong and light--spruce would be great, pine would be OK, oak, would be good though pricy. taht would make up a panel. then you would do the same at 90 degrees on top of it. you'd end up with 2 layer plywood, stronger and lighter than anything you can buy.

 

[Gabu]

Hi guys,

I am thinking... Once I get this done, perhaps I will turn around and build one more cab. I am feeling challenged to achieve my goal of a 50lbs cab.

So, to that end... Let's compile a list of what can be done to lighten the load.

1) I can switch to 5/8" plywood. This is offset a bit because will require some bracing.

2) I can change to lighter speakers.

3) I could make the box about 4" shorter if I did not use a shelf port, but that of course means less volume inside.

4) Maybe instead of using plywood, I could use a lighter solid wood? Does an appropriate wood exist?

Any comments on these thoughts, or additional ways to lose weight?

 

[MrBonex]

Make that cab sound even better by adding a little front-to-back and side-to-side bracing. The front-to-back will add the most benefit. Just screw and glue a 1" dowel in. It will make a HUGE difference because those magnets are just turning your large side-surfaces into big radiators, creating all kinds of weird resonances and phase issues (and it will add very little weight).

Also don't forget to add padding/insulation to the inside. I just re-padded my two GenzBenz bins and it was astounding how tight those boxes sound now. Damn, I should have done it sooner!

Oh, yes, the 3/4 inch ply will definitely sound better than the 5/8. Congratulations on a nice project!

 

[Gabu]

Thanks for the suggestion. I think that this one should be okay without any additional bracing. It definately puts out (apparent) deep bass without distortion, and with clarity. Also, it is already a bit overbudget in the weight department.

Now if I do another in 5/8" wood, That will get some bracing for sure.

 

[BillyB_from_LZ]

Sheesh Billy, you built your first cab when I was four years old.

I was a talented toddler Actually, my first cabinets were built in '72 when I was in 7th grade...but those were stereo speakers...I hadn't yet discovered the electric bass or embarked on a now 30+ year obsession with musical instrument amplifiers and speakers.

 

[Gabu]

I have been thinking about what I want to do to cover this cab. It is definately looking like the Hercules Truck Bed Liner coating is the ticket. I really like the bumpy surface you get with the roll on method of application.

So, I guess I have to disassemble it now and begin filling the little voids and stuff that I can get to, sanding the rough spots, and that sorta thing... To get it ready.

I don't know what I want to do with the front baffle though... Red, Blue, Grey, Black?? Hmm...

 

[patrickj]

Hi guys,

Here is some info:

The cab's measurements are 36" Tall, 19" Wide, and 15" Deep. It weighs 38Lbs (so far). It has about 4.4 ft^3 inside volume. The port is 2" x 17.5" x 7" deep. I figured by leaving the port big I could tack on ports to experiment with various sizes.

My goal is to get a cab with Ampeg-Like tone, under 50lbs, and Giggable volume.

I am trying to decide if I want to tolex, carpet, or paint the ouside now.

The 4x12 I built some months ago has the same dimensions except with a 48" height and came in around 70 pounds (2" slot vent along the bottom as well). While I couldn't hope to break 50, I was aiming to stay under 75. 70lbs + tiltback castors make it very easy to move.

Looks good so far, keep up w/ the pix!

 

[Dan Loader]

I didn't think you'd get it under 50lbs, but 70lbs is an acheivment for a 2x15, my 2x10 weighs 70lbs and only handles 175watts, I envy you

 

[Nightbass]

I have been thinking about what I want to do to cover this cab. It is definately looking like the Hercules Truck Bed Liner coating is the ticket. I really like the bumpy surface you get with the roll on method of application.

I didn't realize there was such a thing as roll-on truck bed liner, so I went to Invalid Link Removed and read up on it. Wow, it's only about $30 a quart for black, $40 a quart for grey or red. Not too bad. Bondo also makes one called Truck Guard. For both of them, the xylene will kill or maim you in short order so you'll have to do it outside.

I'm guessing you will need to prime the wood, or the solvents will soak in and it will not cure. Were you figuring on priming it?

 

[Gabu]

I didn't realize there was such a thing as roll-on truck bed liner, so I went to Invalid Link Removed and read up on it. Wow, it's only about $30 a quart for black, $40 a quart for grey or red. Not too bad. Bondo also makes one called Truck Guard. For both of them, the xylene will kill or maim you in short order so you'll have to do it outside.

I'm guessing you will need to prime the wood, or the solvents will soak in and it will not cure. Were you figuring on priming it?

I am not sure, I was just going to follow the directions as I have never used that stuff before.

Thanks for the warning by the way, I typically work in the garage with the door closed... I guess I should make an exception this time.

 

[Nightbass]

I found the instructions... looks like you're good to go!

WOOD
If wood texture is rough, it may not require special preparation. For best results, lightly sand wood surface before applying HERCULINER. Some pressure-treated woods may need priming. If in doubt, make a small test application first. HERCULINER will bond to wolmanized treated wood without priming.

ROLLER APPLICATION

Apply HERCULINER with special, open foam stipple roller included in the kit. Extra roller covers are available at your local home supply outlet (i.e. foamPro textured paint roller #58).

Apply first coat as a thin coat to cover. When tacky or touch dry (usually within1-4 hours - slightly longer for red and gray HERCULINER), apply second coat. Extreme climate conditions of heat, cold and humidity can shorten or lengthen this period. NOTE: Failure to apply two complete uniform coats will compromise the durability and reduce the longevity of the HERCULINER truck bed coating. Roll gently to extend the life of the roller cover.

COVERAGE (2 COATS)
One quart covers a flat area of about 15 square feet. One gallon covers 55 to 60 square feet, with a final dry coat thickness of 1/16 - 1/32 of an inch.