Those examples, common enough, but, if I was the buyer, the first thing out of my mouth is , " Is everything original ? Did you change anything ? " Of course, the seller might lie, but, that might happen any way about anything. If I'm buying in person, I should inspect everything I can about what I am buying, let alone test it out. I'm not much of a wheeler-dealer, but I have bought quite a few pieces of used gear ( mostly on TB ), and, if I have asked the right questions beforehand, have never been ripped off, as far as replacement parts of OEM original parts. I routinely replaced 15 " drivers with JBL MI drivers, then later sold them, fully stating that the JBL's were replacement drivers. If anything, as in some 215 Kustom tuck n roll cabs, the JBL's made them more viable as a selling point. To the OP's point, I would never say " all original " in an ad for used gear unless it was all original. However, I would not have any qualms saying, " Kustom Tuck n Roll cab, with JBL K140 15's " in an ad.
My grandfather split wood with the same axe every day for 50 years. He changed the handle five times, and the head twice.
Some other things to do when checking that a speaker cabinet has the correct driver installed is to make sure the input jack polarity agrees with the common convention, (positive voltage on the tip of a t/r jack or 1+ on a speakon causes the cone to move outward) and that multi-driver cabinets are wired so all the speakers are in phase. Inspect the wiring for good workmanship, and make sure any push-on lug connections are firmly connected. I also check that the speaker mounting fasteners are tight, (but not too tight, especially for a stamped steel frame speaker). I check all other screws to make sure they are tight. I also carefully move the cone in and out to check for coil rub. I take photos of everything I own when I buy it, including interior shots. This is a good time to get photos of serial numbers, and a good closeup of any crossovers showing part numbers and such.
I'm singularly impressed that the OP has introduced a potential moral dilemma on Talkbass other than: 1) the morality of playing a bass with a pick; 2) the morality of playing something other than a P bass with flats; 3) the morality of mixing cabs; 4) the obvious immorality of going above the 5th fret (where apparently, the devil lives). Just surprised.
I bought an 80's Peavey cab because it was the size and configuration I was looking for. Not because I wanted it the way it started out, but because it had the right 'bones' for what I wanted to do with it. It came loaded with a blown BW mid bass driver for $100. I replaced the driver with an Eminence Legend CA 154 to use with a few different heads. I removed all traces of badging and trim mainly because I wanted a cleaner look, making it consistent with my typical onstage image. Obviously if I ever considered selling the cab I would need to provide all these details to give the cab it's best chance of resale, not just because I'm honest. Before: During: After: I think I actually improved the cab imho. p.s. I did however retain all removed trim and logos, just in case. Also the original blown BW.
Just watched a Mayday show that covered counterfeit parts. Even Airforce One had them! Because three of four bolts were counterfeit an a small passenger prop aircraft and not strong enough, the tail fell off in flight.
That counterfeit Fender 2x12 (I think) even had a counterfeit head. The whole thing was a clone, bought cheap overseas by a sailor. He got a laugh after I noticed something just wasn't right.
Good idea on the Peavy. Sometimes those logos are in front of ports and often blocking parts of drivers. Hifi buffs would scream bloody murder at that. They get disgusted with the baffle step most instrument amps have but it doesn't matter much, especially if the amp has a lot of flat space between the woofer edge and upraised grill and edges. They hate that because they claim it adds color to the sound.
You guys want to see something that turns my stomach... counterfeit pro audio. Everything on this page is counterfeit, all carries the correct looking logos, cartons, owner's manuals, everything. The thought of this hanging above my head is scary. Jbl Line Array-Jbl Line Array Manufacturers, Suppliers and Exporters on Alibaba.comProfessional Audio, Video & Lighting
The stage under my feet would concern me also. That drop down wasn't part of the act. And the crowd cheers adding insult to injury.
Changing the woofer to some make-do ? While at it replace the grill with rabbit cage wire and put a Playboy bunny emblem on it. LOL Actually if painted black rabbit cage wire might work pretty good, but it would need to be tested for resonance.
Please remember, I started this thread for opinions. Looks like I could have gotten away with a non-OEM replacement but with some flies buzzing around the deal. LOL
I didn't I would get anything but a mismatch, I looked at all the drivers I could, then got worried the system would really be cabinet acoustics limited. Truthfully the Ampeg is a quality cabinet but this particular model is just not deep enough in bass. Seems better for standing up to loud metal guitar than for the smooth deep background type of bass I like. This woofer looked like a good chance to get that deep bass but I decided on OEM. I can simply sell it as OEM and try again to get the sound I like. Have a look, maybe worth your time. But on the other hand, the optimum vented F3 of the PA380 is only 65hz. Maybe it would easily get down there for a five string but simply not at top efficiency. I don't have the software to see what it would do in a 2.8CF vented cab. Hint hint , can anyone run that easily ? "Dayton Audio PA380-8 15" Pro Woofer" from www.parts-express.com!
I think you are better off going with OEM, there's no indication that you will get any better low frequency extensions at a suitable sensitivity. Maybe, but it would really be kind of a a guess in real world terms in your box.
I can get acceptably deep bass by the contour control a little bit 10° to the right, 400hz 10° left, and 1khz 10° right on a Marshall IBS. I am playing it on volume position 1 and front pickup 3/4 and it rattles the whole apartment. Maybe I am simply not playing the cabinet loud enough to fill it. The IBS 200 is 200 watts 4ohm, the cabinet 8 ohm. And I'm thinking I got find a place to see just how loud this thing is on 150 watts or so. Here is a free download and a close sample to bass and music I like, AU4 And Down Comes the Sky. » download
There are a lot of fake products on ebay that originate in China. Shure has had to battle this. The packaging looks close, you can be tricked into thinking you are buying the genuine article. This summer I bought some SM-57’s from a reputable local shop. They are a Shure dealer and they buy stock directly from Shure. I have confidence in them. You have to be careful when buying online.