My pleasure, it was not very complicated. The videos of John Carruthers are very good too, and he shows his method for adjusting the nut of a bass in this one (3/4):
I prefer my basses set up almost as low as a guitar set up, it is too light for most bass players who get nothing but fret noise and rattle.
A hair under 5/64"-ish seems to be the sweet spot for me (2 mm, 0.070"). I used to like it a little higher, but my attack changed, and I got older. This still gives me the ability to use a pick [quick pause while the purists clutch at their pearls....], and also play fingerstyle. I play fingerstyle both 'conventionally' using the first one, two, or three fingers, and also in a clawhammer-like fashion (think Sting). Having the action on this setting gives me the feel for all three disciplines. Lower is too low FOR ME, and higher makes my old bones ache. I also like guitars to be really low action.
I don't have a pic, but the new Yamaha BBP3X series I used to own had some insanely incredibly low action. It was so low I could not get a clean note. And I have a very light touch by nature. This bass must come this way from the factory because every YT review I saw and even those filmed by Yamaha had the same clicky buzzy tone that I got. I also wasn't fond of the tone or looks so I sold it.
The problem is every bass is going to be different. Depending on the construction and even how the nut is filed and a bunch of other factors (especially strings). What someone can achieve on their instrument is in no way indicative of what you can achieve on yours.
I do what Mr. Carruthers shows us there . It's all about nut height , If just a little high there it will take some physical energy to play what you want , if too low the bass will have too much fret noise and less defined notes . It has to be right in the zone and why he just does a swipe or 2 with the file and checks and rechecks , it's very easy to go too far and a big pain to reverse on a typical nut . Then assuming your neck adjusts out "straight " for lack of a better word , and it's pitch at the heel is right and your bridge is set right you'll have the easiest playing instrument possible. It really is something else to play a bass that is effortless to play .
As someone who is a fan of low action, the first place I start is making sure the frets are level. If they aren't level, the high frets are going to choke out notes.
No pictures, but physically the lowest will have to be my Schecter Stealth. However I agree with the post that mentions that the ideal low action really depends on the bass- the optimum "low" height varies and is more found by feel than something that can be measured- the goal of having low action in my books is having something that requires little effort to fret (left hand) and pluck, slap, pick (right hand).
It hasn't been said yet, but it also depends on your playing style and the sound you're after. I love a low action, but I play with a pick most of the time and I like a clear articulation, with control of muting at the fretting hand. And for me it's easiest to do with a little higher action, like 2.25mm at the 17th fret. Less than 1.75mm and I begin to have trouble to play cleanly when I want to stop a note, without speaking of the sound becoming too weak. In fact, I spend more energy with too low action.
I have 2.50mm at the 17th fret on all my basses, at the moment. It works for everything I do and I like having the same overall setup on my basses. If I want one of my basses to sound more clean even when digging hard, I use strings with higher tension. The result is the same as rising the action, if you know what you're doing.
Not insane low action, but still about 0,4mm lower than according to Fender's recommendations for a standard setup on a 12" radius fretboard. Had a hard time getting my camera to focus, but it should be possible to see still, almost exactly 2mm on the low E string (really I tune it 2 half steps up to F#, but essentially same deal. It's a gauge .100 string on my 5 string Ibanez Mikro's 28,6" scale) at 17th fret, perhaps ever so slightly less, (this ruler measures mm and cm):
No pic, but I tend to shoot for about 2mm off the last fret and have an almost straight neck. I might tweak some from there, but that tends to be where I always end up unless the bass needs from fretwork. I think that's pretty low for bass.
Wow this looks perfect for me. You guys are the best!!!! Every thread I open, Im amazed by all the responds! Yes. Bassists are supporters! Love for all, From Israel
Yes, I know, at first I played so hard almost lost my fingers, lol, but then I read someone who said they never dig hard, bc its very tiering. At first, when you just start, I played harder to keep the rythem, like drumming I guess. But now I have a lighter touch, although I like to kick it here and there.... Its funny, I talk like I can play the bass, when I only started 3 months ago, I dont have the techniqe, but I can defenitaly feel it now, and aim for what I want it to sound and feel like, (for now, anyway,) if you know what I mean.
I get mine as low as I can get it, every bass is different. Most contemporary basses are pretty easy, some vintage basses can be a challenge. One of my Epiphone Vintage Pro Thunderbirds at the 22th fret.