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Marshall MB4410 or Hartke VX3500 for a rock band?

Well I decided to buy one of them
MARSHALL MB4410 or
HARTKE VX3500
but I don't have the chance to test them before buying.
Don't tell me to check them first before buying, 'cause really I can't.
My band play classic hard rock and I own a Warwick Corvette.
Which of them do you think is better for this kind of music?
 
Personally I play on Hartke VX3500 in a rock band and I think it is a good amp for this kind of music. I have read some comments on Marshall MB4410 and they say that it is like Behringer with only Marshall label. The quality of this doesn´t correspond to the quality of the others Marshall (which are much expensive). So I really recommend Hartke, the quality is good and it has nice, warm, punchy sound.
 
Personally I play on Hartke VX3500 in a rock band and I think it is a good amp for this kind of music. I have read some comments on Marshall MB4410 and they say that it is like Behringer with only Marshall label. The quality of this doesn´t correspond to the quality of the others Marshall (which are much expensive). So I really recommend Hartke, the quality is good and it has nice, warm, punchy sound.

Strange. I haven't read any comments that say that Marshall MB could be compared to a Behringer :hmm: I've had bad experience with Hartke and own a Marshall MB4210. I was considering a Hartke because it has wheels on it but I didn't get a chance to try it and it costs a bit more so I chose the Marshall.

If you can't try them out anyways go with the Hartke. It is one of the most praised bass setups in the world.
 
As the (first?) proud owner of the MB450h and MBC410 cab on this here forum, I can't praise my rig enough. The combo you're looking at is both of my parts stuck together. Loads of power and great tone for the price!

If you do decide to go with the Marshall, bear in mind it's going to be really heavy! 51kgs = 112lbs!!! Remember DO NOT screw wheels to the bottom of your combo. Build/buy a dolly or a hand-truck to haul your rig.
 
My MB rig is 10 times better than behringer, warm, tubey preamp, really loud. I can get the best tones out of it. from a scooped slap tone, to a ballsy upper mid/treble growl, to a "Muse Type" fuzz


I followed this exact same path, behringer BX4500H through some miscellaneous cabs, upgraded last weekend to the MB4410.

It sounds fantastic with my Spectre Q5 in a loud/live rehearsal and the tone and grunt of the valve preamp is sublime.

My only issue with it is when two people lift it, it tilts towards the front due to the head being half-depth. This would have been easy to fix at production by moving the handles towards the front of the cabinet. Also, it's a _heavy_ mofo. Still, looks and sounds amazing. Yet to gig it, but it won't be long.

Chris.
 
I followed this exact same path, behringer BX4500H through some miscellaneous cabs, upgraded last weekend to the MB4410.

It sounds fantastic with my Spectre Q5 in a loud/live rehearsal and the tone and grunt of the valve preamp is sublime.

My only issue with it is when two people lift it, it tilts towards the front due to the head being half-depth. This would have been easy to fix at production by moving the handles towards the front of the cabinet. Also, it's a _heavy_ mofo. Still, looks and sounds amazing. Yet to gig it, but it won't be long.

Chris.

Yes. it's (physically) a heavy-weight - give thanks to MDF for that:scowl:
When you gig with it, depending on how you want to project to FOH, if you use the XLR out on the back, make sure it's set to PRE otherwise the outgoing signal will be way too hot.

As well, don't be afraid to crank it up! Unlike other combos I've played, the speakers can easily handle max power. ENJOY!
 
GREENCROW
how do you like the Marshall MB4210? I was going for the 4x10 thinking it will cover most situations from small to large. add a second 4x10 for the biggies.

Now I am thinking about the 2x10 since it is smaller, lighter, lower cost and probably will do most of what I need for now with smaller gigs, practice and lower volume bands.
 
As the (first?) proud owner of the MB450h and MBC410 cab on this here forum, I can't praise my rig enough. The combo you're looking at is both of my parts stuck together. Loads of power and great tone for the price!

If you do decide to go with the Marshall, bear in mind it's going to be really heavy! 51kgs = 112lbs!!! Remember DO NOT screw wheels to the bottom of your combo. Build/buy a dolly or a hand-truck to haul your rig.
why cant you screw wheels to it?
 
why cant you screw wheels to it?

Medium Density Fibreboard is basically "dust glued together and baked in an oven." Sounds simplistic, but the truth. Screwing into MDF (and drywall is similar) requires a very careful touch.
<<WARNING: SCIENCE CONTENT!>>:D Drill pilot holes between 85 % and 90 % of the root diameter of the screw used and at least as deep as the screw. Untapered sheet metal screws with constant size shank are good, as are some untapered wood screws. Pilot hole sizes and minimum edge distances for common screw sizes are :
#6 screw - 3/32 inch pilot - 1/2 inch edge distance
#8 screw - 7/64 inch pilot - 5/8 inch edge distance
#10 screw - 1/8 inch pilot - 1 inch edge distance

Due to the relatively "extreme forces" applied when loading/moving your cab, (unloading from your car, negotiating stairs etc.)those castors will get bumped, jolted, and the like. MDF does not like screws. Be careful not to over-tighten any screws, because the material "strips" very easily.:( It's best to use a cordless drill with a clutch setting of about 5-6.
If you want more info, PM me. Hope that helps:bassist:

PS Why build cabs out of heavy MDF? It doesn't warp like wood, depending on how you joint your corners - pretty solid, and be made completely airtight. These are all qualities you want when designing a good speaker enclosure.
 
I have played classic and hard rock with a Hartke VX3500 410 combo from Hartke. Good tone lots of power not too bad to schlep around. Excellent bang for your buck. It is well made and tough as nails.
Don't know about the Marshall products though. The Hartke design has been battle/ gig proven over time.
 
Had my Marshall MB rig since january '08 and it's still going strong.
Made some vinyl covers for the head and 2 cabs to reduce the scratches & bumps, my sewing machine skills are a little bit off, but i'll try almost anything.

The 1x15" cabinet is not too bad to carry around, but the 4x10", O.M.G it must be the extra speaker magnets- heavy.

It all fits nicely on the back seat of my car, 2 cabs & multi fx on the seat and the head and 2 basses on the floor.

I will have to have another good sound session with my rig, as the last gig, the sound engineer noted that the highs were a bit too much. The cabs have switchable horns, i use both of them switched 'ON', and i thought the sound was good from my perspective, guess i will need to get someone to play my bass while i go walk-about to listen to the sound some distance from the stage.

I will soon try connecting my Boss GT-10B effects box in 4 cable method (4CM) to try sectionalizing the MB450H preamp as a separate effects block within the GT-10B, and arranging it's chain position/order with the other effects.
Then i will be able to compare the MB450H preamp to some of the Boss COSM preamps, and maybe make a preamp patch which can emulate the MB450H preamp sound.

The Classic channel with 'a real genuine tube' is my favorite, the sound from it is just so 'right' it will give you a hard-on , i think the Modern channel might only be suited for finger picking playing styles, but can enhance the sound if you use the 'Blend' option to mix both channels together.

All in all a very good choice, the price was comparable with Behringer equivalents (cheap) but you get those nice 'Marshall' brand name logo's on your rig.

If i were to trade-in on something else, it would only be because i saved enough for an Ampeg or Mesa all tube setup instead.

This setup easily has to the absolute best "Bang-for-your-Bucks"..
 
Medium Density Fibreboard is basically "dust glued together and baked in an oven." Sounds simplistic, but the truth. Screwing into MDF (and drywall is similar) requires a very careful touch.
<<WARNING: SCIENCE CONTENT!>>:D Drill pilot holes between 85 % and 90 % of the root diameter of the screw used and at least as deep as the screw. Untapered sheet metal screws with constant size shank are good, as are some untapered wood screws. Pilot hole sizes and minimum edge distances for common screw sizes are :
#6 screw - 3/32 inch pilot - 1/2 inch edge distance
#8 screw - 7/64 inch pilot - 5/8 inch edge distance
#10 screw - 1/8 inch pilot - 1 inch edge distance

Due to the relatively "extreme forces" applied when loading/moving your cab, (unloading from your car, negotiating stairs etc.)those castors will get bumped, jolted, and the like. MDF does not like screws. Be careful not to over-tighten any screws, because the material "strips" very easily.:( It's best to use a cordless drill with a clutch setting of about 5-6.
If you want more info, PM me. Hope that helps:bassist:

PS Why build cabs out of heavy MDF? It doesn't warp like wood, depending on how you joint your corners - pretty solid, and be made completely airtight. These are all qualities you want when designing a good speaker enclosure.

Or get a nice solid piece of wood, glue some of he scratchy velcro to it, and then put casters on the other side. simple as. you get a good connection to the floor, and end up with what is essentially a skateboard for your amp. :hyper:
 
I just went and played through the MB4410 this afternoon. MMMmmm! What a great sound. The sales guy was trying to get me interested in a Mesa 6 Carbine and plugged me back and forth between the MB and the Mesa, swearing he could get the Mesa to sound like the MB. Hah! Not even close.

Why on earth do they make stuff that heavy without wheels!?!? Seriously, what would it cost them to put on casters and increase the desirability of their product?
 
I know this thread isn't used much, but anyway...

I own the MB4410, have had it for a couple of years and still love it. Great sound, for a very low price.

On the weight and weels issue:
Take a good hard wooden board and screw the weels on. Then put industrial velco on the other side of the board and on the underside of your amp. This is super strong and extreme hard tot get back of! But, you can still get it of when needed and you don't have to screw into the amp...
 

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