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How-To: USA Big Muff to Colorsound Tone Bender conversion

Ok, since a few of you have expressed interest in this mod here's how it's done. Sorry the pcb pics aren't better. There are a few extra resistors on the BM board that should be left eventhough they aren't on the JTB schematic, the ones labeled pulldown and LED. They don't have any effect on sound. Also, the BM uses two power supply filter caps (C13) instead of the one in the Bender. This shouldn't really make much if any difference but you can change those if you want to as well. Lastly, I show that a trace should be cut. That's optional I don't think it matters. If you cut it and it doesn't sound right then reconnect it. EH was nice enough to put to empty holes right where that cap (C9) goes. I don't know why, maybe they anticipated us wnating to do this mod:). Other than that it should be straight forward. Remove all the parts labeled for removal and compare all the resistors with those in the schematic to find the ones that need to be changed. Small differences like 470pF vs 500pF or 470K vs 510K probably don't make much if any audible difference. Tolerances in components could make them be about the same in the end anyway. As far as using mylars for the .1 caps, that's just what the original Jumbo used. Use electrolytics or polystyrene or whatever you want. I forgot to label C10 and C11 on the pic, but they don't change anyway. Ok, that's it, feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
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here's a bill of Materials as they correspond to the values on the schem and the image of the Muff board

Bill of materials

Q1,2,3 - BC184C

D1,2 - 1N4148

R1 - 33K
R2 - 470K
R3 - 100K
R5 - 100
R6 - 1K
R7 - 8K2
R8 - 470K
R9 - 100K
R10 - 10K
R11 - 100
R12 - 8K2
R13 - 470k
R14 - 100K
R15 - 15K
R16 - 100
R17 - 33K
R18 - 33K

c1,3,4,6,7,9,12 - 0.1mf
C2,5,8 - 500pf
C13 - 22mf (2)

GET AN EXTRA .1mf FOR UNDERSIDE OF BOARD


please check my list and make sure i got everything correct.

Hope this helps.
 
You might have trouble finding 500pf caps, in which case the stock 470pf caps are just fine.

Mouser is the only place I checked for the transistors. I prefer using Mouser becasue they're in Texas and I usually get my parts in 1-2 days.

Be sure to check the datasheet for the pinouts on the transistors, especially if you solder them in.

Note that not all of the resistors need to be replaced. For example, R5 is already 100 ohms. I think you need to add R4 as well. It's the one next to R7 that isn't labeled.
 
:rolleyes: ...well I checked the orientation of my transistors, and found out that I had them in wrong. The Fairchild BC184C's are CBE (when looking at the flat face), where as some other transistors are EBC. My PCB was orientated to EBC. I should have known something was up, as it sounded okay but didn't quite have the gain or volume that I expected. It sounds much better now, with more volume and fuzz.

Just a heads up to anyone doing this mod or building a Jumbo clone.

Lyle
 
So I just ordered from Mouser and Digikey

the transistors from digikey and the rest from the mouse.

I doubled the quantities of pretty much everything to allow for error.

I also ordered a DOD 250 in hopes that I can increase the bass response using some of the extra .1uf caps.

I should end up with some kicking OD/Dist/Fuzz tone

I'll keep everyone here posted.

If all goes according to plan I'll have clips on sunday.
 
Got the parts today. I'll be soldering up a storm tonight I suspect.

Just a note - I ordered mica 500pf caps and they are HUGE! I think i'm going to have to solder them on the underside of the board. Oh well I'll make it work.

Now I just need a some desoldering braid - Radioshack here I come.

Pick up a heat sink for the transistors as well if you don't have one, or else socket them.

Exactly how big are these caps?
I have big blue ones in mine. Cause of course blue sounds better :)
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