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Rebuilding a P-bass copy step-by-step and fun to watch

Okay, so I'm currently rebuilding my beloved Sunn Mustang P-bass copy, as it always looked like crap but played like the best bass ever. I thought I might walk you guys through my happy project. Here it is before I got started on it. It weighs a ton, and sounds like a P-bass should, was the only bass I owned up until a couple of years ago when I got bored of guitars.

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It's a late '80s fender licensed made in India P copy from an Argos catalogue (any brits on here will remember these, they have an awful reputation). Though I intend to change all that.

I bought myself a relatively cheap Kent Armstrong Hot Alnico P-bass pickup, some 250k CTS pots, olive green woodstain, danish oil, and a very naughty 70s look fender decal from ebay (sorry, I know, but after some discoveries I feel more justified in that now).

The plan is to have an oil finished neck, for super smooth slidy playing, and an oil finished olive green body for super resonant loveliness.
There are online rumours that they made these from bits of real fender shipped to India to be put together cheaply, with cheap electronics and slightly ugly bits of wood. After taking it apart, I think those rumours might be true.

Nitromors specialist is the product you need for an '80s poly finish, discovered it a couple of years ago while stripping an 89 strat. Excellent stuff, just don't leave it on while you walk the dog, or it dries out and is a total waste of time and effort. You will also get a numb finger and an aching shoulder for your troubles.

I found a solid wood body (not sure what wood, any ideas people?) which put my worst fears to rest, and made me sure I was doing the right thing.

pbassinbits.jpg


I got to the back of the neck, and found a micro-tilt button glued in by a passing dog, no problem to me, I don't have a micro tilt system in the body, and don't like them anyway.
I also found that the ferrules are really wedged in there, and I must find something of the right roundness and width to whack them out, and probably heat them up with a soldering iron as well. Thanks for the tips on that one fellow Tbers, I'll let you know.

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I also found that the body has had a terrible veneer put on it, before the shiny red finish was sprayed on, problem no. 2.

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However after a couple of hours with a chisel and a heatgun, we're ready to strip the last of the gunk with more Nitromors, and then sand away til it's smooth and lovely.

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More to come once I've been to the shops this weekend for more Nitromors and a lot of sandpaper.
 
Right so after a whole week of hand-sanding the body and neck as the nitromors did nothing on the poly sealer sadly (super low grit paper, and a bit of elbow grease, plus thanking the guy who put that crappy veneer on does it). I got the body and neck down to nothing.
Also got those ferrules out with an old CB radio jack that was just the right size, huge thanks to Allen VA for the clamping method he suggested, worked a treat.
Here's the results, those who said it was a perfect candidate for a solid finish, are not going to eat their words at all, sadly, but I like a train-wreck look.
Don't know if you can see the dents and chips taken out of it, but they were hidden under the veneer, those relicing guys spend hours dropping things on guitars to get those in there, mine already had them hiding under the perfectly flat red poly. :hiding:
strippedfront.jpg

strippedback.jpg

Having got it all off, I have now put the first coat of danish oil on the neck, and am on a second coat of Olive green woodstain for the body, which will then get its own coat of danish oil, while I sort out the headstock with its naughty decal. Here's the current state of things, along with a novel use for a Mic stand.
stainingfront.jpg

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Not as green as I'd hoped, but then if I'd wanted a perfect staining job, I should have sanded more off it, far too much like hard work for a bass that's probably going to lose half the finish to my sweaty paws in a couple of weeks anyway.
 
Tis my Tokai Rockinbetter/Rickenfaker you spotted there lads.
ricky.jpg


new pictures on the way soon, the green stain dried all brown, so I've covered it in a green acrylic wash this afternoon, looks a bit like a darker version of the old fender wildwood finish they used to use on coronados.
Blame my wife, she's an artist and came up with the acrylic idea, first coat of danish oil on the body in half an hour and counting.
 
Okay, so after a great deal of rubbing danish oil over the neck and body, and one broken decal, we're a litle further ahead. I got the decal to stick to the headstock, and am now applying layers of french polish very very slowly. I've also just put on my flame proof jacket for the inevitable backlash for the decal. Justifying myself by knowing this was made out of Fender parts in India, and therefore is almost a fender, if not quite. I did the same thing with my strat, which came out of the Fujigen factory, which did later become fender Japan. Frankly I just do this to stop the gear snobs, whining at me for having cheapo knockoffs. Plus if they do tell me how nice they think my gear is, it's brilliant to tell them it IS a cheap knockoff. :D
Here's the latest pictures, next shots should be of the finished thing.
headstocknopolish.jpg

oiledandreadyfront.jpg

oiledandreadyback.jpg
 
We will have a slight delay in proceedings while I sand off the french polish, wait for my acrylic spray lacquer to be delivered, and start the whole bloody headstock again (thanks to the bloke I bought the decal off for giving me a free spare to practise on, looks like I need it). Once again, don't believe anybody who says you can use French polish on a decal. Although it does nail that 50s fender decal over the nitro look. No good for a 70s P look though. hey ho...