Recent content by EaglePoint

I was going to use car rubbing compound I got from walmart and try buffing it by hand. It's not very abrasive stuff. It's the same stuff I've used to make the epoxy on my fretboard glossy. Would rubbing compound be too rough for the nitro? When you say "not applying clear intil you get a...

Yup, I let the sealer dry for 24 hrs. I currently have 2 coats on the neck and 3 coats on the body. I haven't been sanding between coats (I guess I skipped over that paragraph...I'll go sand, I still have half a can left), I've been letting the nitro black sit about 1.5-2 hrs between coats...

Hmmm, well, I already put the first few coats of nitro on. I have another question. This is my first time nitro-ing a guitar (I'm using stew-mac's stuff. I've got the sanding sealer down, and some coats of black gloss), and all the how-to's make sense and everything, but I'm a little hazy on...

I currently have a neck with a "tung oil" finish... I suspect it's the tung oil/varnish blend. Will a nitrocellulose lacquer adhere well over the "oil"? Or do I need to take the 'oil' finish all the way off? EDIT: I'm also hoping to do the headstock, which, like the fretboard, has an...

Long story short: I came across an old p-bass body in a garage sale that was beaten up pretty bad, but I needed something to do with my fretless epoxied neck, so I bought the bass. Idiotically, the neck was a j-bass style neck, so they didn’t fit perfectly well together (I found another use...

Actually, it has nothing to due with either. You were right when you said "the less transmitted vibration, the more energy stays with the moving string, therefore making it ring longer," but the retainment of mechanical energy has more to do with the Young's modulus of the nut then anything...